diesel secrets

[rossM4]

Check this web site out its called dieselsecrets.com just add this stuff to filtered waste veggie oil and put it into the tank. I have not used it personally but I have friend who runs it through his 05 powerstroke and loves it. After its all said and done it costs about 46 cents per gallon to produce if the oil is free and not including costs to go get the oil. But even adding that cost its a lot better than 4 or 5 dollars per gallon. Please let me know how it works out if you try it

 

[area52]

snake oil!

 

[stampy]

From the fryer to the fuel tank is a good book on making biodiesel also. Biodiesel will run in all diesels where filtered WVO may not.

 

[midcounty]

If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is. I can't believe it would do what it says. If so, biodiesel makers would be doing it and saving themselves a lot of money.

 

[rossM4]

ok I will do some research on making the real bio diesel, didnt mean to sound like an idiot I just wanted to share in a possible money saver. I have heard that bio diesel is corrosive and will eat rubber O rings, seals, and rubber fuel lines within the fuel system if this is true how is this problem fixed and how much will it cost to convert a deuce to run bio and the setup to make the stuff. thank you for your help.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

I just filter the WVO and blend it with some diesel- 183,000 miles on my '04 dodge 2500.

 

[rossM4]

how much diesel do you have to mix in with 25 gallons of oil

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Depends on how viscous the WVO is. I used to do fuel testing in the Navy, I have the equipment.

Here's a way to do it- Get the finest mesh strainer you can get from a paint store. Or, you can use coffee filters, you just have to be quick with the stopwatch, as you will only get a cup or two in a coffee filter.

Pour a set amount of diesel in it, and time how long it takes to flow through. Do this again with the WVO in another new strainer

Say it takes 35 seconds to flow a quart of WVO- but 15 seconds to flow the quart of diesel. The difference is 20 seconds- double that number and blend it 40% diesel and 60% WVO. This is a quick and dirty method I've used on the go when I don't have my equipment handy. Again, it works for me. I only do it this way on a rare occasion though. Make sure the diesel and WVO are the same temp and already clean and filtered.

Or here's a way to make a tester- the real deal ones are expensive.
Homemade Oil Viscosity Tester | eHow.com

 

[area52]

Don't forget that WVO will gel in cold temps, clogging up your fuel lines and filters. Thats why people convert it to biodiesel which has a lower gel point.

 

[rossM4]

what is needed to convert a deuce?? can i just make it and pour it in or is there more to it??

 

[wreckerman893]

what is needed to convert a deuce?? can i just make it and pour it in or is there more to it??

The deuce is already designed to burn multiple fuel viscosities...that is why it has a Fuel Density Compensator on it.

In hot weather you can run 50/50 diesel/WVO as long as you run it out before cool weather and purge the system of WVO if you are going to let the truck sit for a while.

My mix for a 100 gal batch is 30 gals of WVO, 30 gals WMO, 30 gallons straight diesel and 10 gals of regular gas.

My deuces love it.

In my opinion making bio-diesel is a labor intensive process that involves buying Lye and Methanol and mixing it correctly with some specialized equipment.

That is fine if you have a picky modern diesel.

The deuce don't care...as long as it has heat value the deuce will burn it.

You just have to make sure you get the water out and that the fuel is thin enough to flow through the system easily.

 

[rossM4]

thanks for the help guys the information gathered here will save me some cash when i get my deuce in the near future.

 

[hedgehog69]

ok I will do some research on making the real bio diesel, didnt mean to sound like an idiot I just wanted to share in a possible money saver. I have heard that bio diesel is corrosive and will eat rubber O rings, seals, and rubber fuel lines within the fuel system if this is true how is this problem fixed and how much will it cost to convert a deuce to run bio and the setup to make the stuff. thank you for your help.

Biodiesel will 'eat' some rubber. I think vehicles after 1996 went to Viton seals and gaskets. Viton and biodiesel work great together.

 

[stampy]

Biodiesel will not eat rubber if it is properly "washed" Read from the fryer to the fuel tank. I have made biodiesel a few times and had no trouble. Washing puts the pH to 7 (neutral) so it will not hurt anything if washed (it will however clean all the crud out of your fuel tank. and deposit it in your filters.

 

[dobyg75]

I have done some research on bio diesel and thats what I have read. the methyl oxide is what eats seals but when water is added to wash it it removes the catalyst

 

[RWG]

Very interesting info on what these trucks will burn. What impact does the high compression verses lower compresson civilian engines have on using these fuel mixtures?
Why don't manufactures make more small diesel pick ups (1/2 ) ton trucks.
Looks like there is a market in the US for them. I worked in Africa several years ago, and there are many small diesel vehivles available there that are not available in the US. Toyota was a major manufacturer.

 

[oddshot]

The deuce is already designed to burn multiple fuel viscosities...that is why it has a Fuel Density Compensator on it.

... (NOTE: I've edited the references to Veggie Oil out of this quote as they are not relevant to my thoughts/questions below.) ...

The deuce don't care...as long as it has heat value the deuce will burn it.

You just have to make sure you get the water out and that the fuel is thin enough to flow through the system easily.

"The deuce is already designed to burn multiple fuel viscosities ..."

True!!!

But I wonder if there is a "BEST" viscosity for waste oil blends that will yield the best possible mileage and performance?


Apart from "rule of thumb" numbers ...

Has anybody seen a "BEST" viscosity spec for Deuce fuels?

Has anybody ever seen a "BEST" viscosity spec for WMO blends?





I wonder if using simple homemade tools (as Ferroequinologist posted above) if one can QUICKLY AND EASILY measure and compare viscosity ... and come up with a PREMIUM blend that can be replicated?

I've found a way to construct a simple floating hydrometer; one accurate enough for comparisons.

oddshot

 

[merlot566jka]

I don't think the viscosity has anything to do with performance unless it’s so thick it can’t be pumped. Sure, to reduce pumping loss, I can imagine in a lab of some sort you could measure the amount of difference it takes for a thicker vs. thinner fuel. But I don't think there is an optimum viscosity. Viscosity doesn’t make power, or reduce it to the point where it’s going to affect mileage.

In fuels, the things that are going to make a difference are the heat index (mentioned above) more specifically the amount of energy that fuel contains. WVO/Bio-diesel has a higher amount of BTU than straight diesel. The difference in the energy content and burn characteristics of the engine is what makes the difference in power and mileage, not the viscosity.
Ferroequinologist was pointing out how to measure the viscosity of your WVO (or whatever) so that you know how much to mix with diesel. I'll put it an easier way to look at it... think about it like making pudding or some other sort of food. Too much of one thing makes it runny, too little and it’s too thick. That’s what he was describing, how to measure your waste fuel and cut it with diesel. (BTW I used to test fuel in the navy too, small world)

In a modern diesel, it is going to be more important to maintain a thinner viscosity due to the sensitivity of those engines. In the deuce, it’s not so important.

Moving on, WVO can congeal at lower temps. Example, take some veggie grease, shortening, animal fat, put it in a coffee can when it’s hot. Let it sit at room temp for a bit and it turns solid. This is due to the glycerin in the oil. Making bio-diesel is just the process of taking the glycerin out of the fuel using a catalyst (methanol and lye) then washing it with water to remove the corrosives and other impurities in the fuel. This makes the WVO survive lower temps without turning solid.
Cutting it with diesel or other fuels also reduces the tendency to congeal. Like mixing anti-freeze with water, it reduces its freezing temp, same sort of concept.
It does reduce the viscosity some when you convert WVO to bio-diesel, but that’s not the point of making bio-diesel.

 

[idM1028]

Very interesting info on what these trucks will burn. What impact does the high compression verses lower compresson civilian engines have on using these fuel mixtures?
Why don't manufactures make more small diesel pick ups (1/2 ) ton trucks.
Looks like there is a market in the US for them. I worked in Africa several years ago, and there are many small diesel vehivles available there that are not available in the US. Toyota was a major manufacturer.

Cummins is working on developing a new 4 cylinder engine for the Nissan Titan that will make a hair over 200HP and around 350 ft/lbs IIRC. They're also saying it will get 28MPG. The big problem with diesel vehicles in this country seems to be that people think they're dirty and clunky. This pretty much sums the stereotype up: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTzk3ibvQeo[/media] Thus, the diesel vehicles in this country are subjected to more stringent emissions standards, even though many places in this country don't require periodic emissions testing for diesel vehicles. There's a few manufacturers out there willing to break the mold. Jeep for example, has made diesel versions of the Liberty and the Grand Cherokee.

 

[oddshot]

I don't think the viscosity has anything to do with performance unless it’s so thick it can’t be pumped. Sure, to reduce pumping loss, I can imagine in a lab of some sort you could measure the amount of difference it takes for a thicker vs. thinner fuel. But I don't think there is an optimum viscosity. Viscosity doesn’t make power, or reduce it to the point where it’s going to affect mileage.

In fuels, the things that are going to make a difference are the heat index (mentioned above) more specifically the amount of energy that fuel contains. WVO/Bio-diesel has a higher amount of BTU than straight diesel. The difference in the energy content and burn characteristics of the engine is what makes the difference in power and mileage, not the viscosity.

Ferroequinologist was pointing out how to measure the viscosity of your WVO (or whatever) so that you know how much to mix with diesel. I'll put it an easier way to look at it... think about it like making pudding or some other sort of food. Too much of one thing makes it runny, too little and it’s too thick. That’s what he was describing, how to measure your waste fuel and cut it with diesel. (BTW I used to test fuel in the navy too, small world)

In a modern diesel, it is going to be more important to maintain a thinner viscosity due to the sensitivity of those engines. In the deuce, it’s not so important.


(NOTE: For clarity, I've removed the portions of the above post regarding Veggie Oil).

I know that a given amount of a "fuel" will yield an (x) amount of BTU's or calories in an engine.

But, I made an observation with my truck recently that set me thinking and searching the threads about this:

My last tankful of Waste Motor Oil & Diesel was about 90% filtered WMO mixed with 10% diesel.

I noticed that the truck had dropped in power going up and down the hills and was smoking a bit more.

When the tank was about 1/2 full ... I stopped and pumped in TWO gallons of diesel.

The change was dramatic and almost instantaneous. All the power was restored and the smoke cleared up ...

OK ... so that set me to thinking ... What had changed?

Its got to be that the 2 gallons of diesel I pumped in:

a) improved or added BTU or calories to the WMO in the tank

OR

b) it lowered the viscosity to the point where the fuel flowed through the system (pumps and filters) better.

OR c) something I'm not considering.


anyoldways ...

just for the sake of measuring ... I'm going to take a sample of the fuel in my tank, a sample from the batch of WMO I got in storage ... and a sample of fresh diesel ... and do a couple of measurements with a viscometer and a hydrometer ... for comparisons. It don't cost anything ... and I got a little time.

Also, because my driving cycle back and forth to school is so widely varied (I do almost exactly 100 miles per day. A pretty even mix of NoGa hills, 4 lane highway, and a bit of stop and go driving in Marietta) I get a real good MPG & Power test.

I've also become friendly with one of the Instructors in the diesel program where I go to school and see what he thinks.

all thoughts welcome

oddshot