different door hinges?

[bigmike]

My original problem is that the passenger door doesn't close easily. It looks like the gap between the door and cab, at the hinges, is larger on the passenger side. You really have to slam the door. So I thought the hinges may be bent out causing this. Upon inspection I see two different types of hinges.

The driver's side is notched so the door only opens about 75% keeping one from hitting the mirror and making it easier to get in. The passenger side is NOT notched so the door opens 100% bumping into the mirror bracket. I've seen hinges on the web (saturnsurplus) that resemble the passenger side of my deuce but I have not seen the notched style.

Any comments?

 

[BFR]

the gap on the passenger side is so the mount gunring leg fits

 

[Recovry4x4]

I'm not aware of 2 different door hinges but nothing would surprise me. The factory deuce (and 5 ton for tham matter) hinge will allow the door to open quite wide. There is a pin of sorts that limits how far the doors actually open. The come through the door hinge and pin into a bracket on the door midway betwee the hinges. Can you post a couple of pics?

 

[OPCOM]

Speaking of hinges, I have one that is bad. It's the lower one. OK, so it's bad because somehow the pin has sheared completely. OK, so I read the book, and I should just knock the pin out of the top hinge, pull the door, and then I can work on things. Not so fast, the pin in the top hinge is so tight that it won't move even with a big hammer! what gives? would it be simpler to just go buy a new hinge or set of hinges ?

 

[DDoyle]

Yep, it would be easier to replace the hinge - but if you have a torch, you might try removing the hinge and heating it, then trying to drive the pin out. As Kenny pointed out, the door limit stop is midway between the hinges, essentially a steel rod that is pinned to the door opening. Be sure an disconnect before unbolting the door - many years ago I forgot this, and balancing the door while trying to disconnect this is no fun!

Best wishes,
David Doyle

 

[Recovry4x4]

This is a problem Patrick! I have 2 hinges on the tractor I just can't free the pins in. I would suggest unbolting the door from the hinge then taking the hinges off the truck. If you have west coast mirrors, they will be coming off as well. A liberal amount of heat with a cutting torch should get them loose. I've tired of trying to keep the hinges working smoothly with the stock pins. While visiting Devilman96 he assautled one of my door hinges. He drilled both pieces out, added nylon shouldered bushings he had and set me up with stainless bolts and nylocks. I added a little white lithium on assy and the door swings nice, easy and smooth. His thread (Diablo Build) might have covered the hinges. I've done one hinge on my own and have 6 left to do. Not stock but oh, so sweet!

 

[jasonjc]

aren't the pin just bolts???

 

[DDoyle]

Re: RE: different door hinges?

aren't the pin just bolts???

Not originally - the orginal pin is tapered on the lower end, and resembles a carriage bolt at the top. However, many, many of them have been replaced with bolts.

Best wishes,
David

 

[Recovry4x4]

They are an odd size shouldered bolt thats used in the west coast mirror kits. If they freeze in either part of the hinge, you will most likely break them trying to get them loose. The trucks with the west coast mirrors use these, the older trucks without had a regualr pin with scoring on the top to keep it seated. If you can get the hinges on the workbench without breaking anything, you should be able to get the bolts/pins out with heat.

 

[bigmike]

Re: RE: different door hinges?

the gap on the passenger side is so the mount gunring leg fits

So would removing the gunring leg allow the door to close properly? If so, someone must have done a modification to allow the gunring leg and improve the door's function?

 

[DDoyle]

Re: RE: different door hinges?

So would removing the gunring leg allow the door to close properly? If so, someone must have done a modification to allow the gunring leg and improve the door's function?[/quote]

Well, if possible post photos - I don't think we understand what kind of problem the door is giving you. The truck was designed with bracket to support the ring mount as an integral part of the door. That is, the door should close properly with it in place. If you can't post a picture, please try to explain exactly what is happening where when you close the door - it would help me at least to visualize what correction is needed.

Regards,
David

 

[devilman96]

Thus far the door hinge mod Ken mentioned has been the best bet on getting sooth functional hinges that last and are 100% repairable...

I have a TA I can email you on doing the job if you would like....

 

[jasonjc]

why don't you post the TA and part #/parts list or see if MV mag will print it I hear they are looking for storys all the time.

 

[rdixiemiller]

Devildude
Where did you get those bushings? I think they would also work on the hood hinges. Mine vibrate like mad and are most annoying........

 

[devilman96]

Hood hinges like this??? *snicker*

I have a TA writen on this with the PN's and drill sizes... but errr ummm... Our leader *NUDGE KICK NUDGE* is working out how to allow me to post the TA's with pics like the one with the fuel filter mod.

PM me your emails and I will send it to you...

 

[Recovry4x4]

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention he did the hood hinges first. My hood hinges suck as well and will receive the same treatment. Joel, now you know why I wanted those extra hood hinges.

 

[jasonjc]

Devilman make your self a few bucks by seening those TA to MV mag. It whould be get to have a duces tip section evey issue

 

[hndrsonj]

Whats the link for the inserts? I have had the same problem since swapping my cab to an 86 Air Force unit. The M66 front pax mount is causing the problem. I can e-mail a pic to someone who can post it.

 

[devilman96]

Something else I thought of while reading this thread... The backing plates in the cab are adjustable meaning when you loosen the hinge bolts you can slide the door up, down, in and out to compensate for "fit"... It would seem obvious but with the way these things rust the adjustment plates seem welded in place... If your hinges are frozen or stiff you will end up throwing the door out of alignment due to the pressures on the hinges...

If you pull your door run some longer bolts in the plates, spray them with lube and give them a few taps with a hammer so they slide around freely before reinstalling... This will save ya heaps of trouble when trying to readjust your doors to the cab.

 

[hndrsonj]

I have the same problem with the pax side door. I rebuilt the hinges last night and am adding west coast mirrors. After putting on the new hinges you can see that the hinges do not close completely with the hinges bolted to the door and not installed on the truck. Turns out the seal on the leading edge sat so long with the door not closed, it got hard and is effecting the hinges. I cut the seal and the hinges work now. Then I put the doors on the truck, and the door closes all but the last 2-3 inches. After messing with it awhile, I found the forward lip of the door rubbing on the M-66 ring support on the bottom 1-2 inches of the door. I just took a dremel and sanded the lower 2 inches of the support. It took 5 minutes and you can't even see it except for the new paint.
by the way there are 2 different types of hinges and they work in any position.