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Disc brakes on a deuce???

chevycrew

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What are the thoughts and opinions of converting a deuce over to hydraulic disc brakes. I have been doin some research. It can be done fairly easily and not overly expensive. Minor machining on the rotors, some fab for caliper mounts and thats the basics.

The research I have done shows '94 Ford f700 bus rotors, superduty f550 dual piston calipers. 1/2" longer wheel studs, and some machine work. If you are not wanting to buy a "kit".

This would run about $350 per wheel that you wish to convert.

How would these calipers work with the stock deuce braking system?

It would be really nice to get upgraded braking ability for these trucks.


Ok, let me have it, all the feedback good or bad........
 

Recovry4x4

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I've never had a problem stopping the truck iunless it was quite heavy. If I were going for a brake modification, I would look towards coming up with a split brake system. I would rather have that crisis puckerfactor reducer before an improved ability to stop faster. With that said, it's your truck and your decision.
 

cranetruck

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This subject has come up a number of times before on this and other forums.
I'd like to see some numbers, heat dissipating capaity, required brake pedal pressure etc. How large would the discs have to be to equal the drums in capacity (extended downhill braking without engine braking).

I can provide a couple:
The hydraulic brake line pressure on the deuce is about 1,800 psi.
An estimated heat dissipating capacity for the 90 lb deuce drums is 12 KW/ea.
Drum brakes have a "servo" effect, helping to increasing the brakeshoe pressure.

For downhil driving, the exhaust brake is a great comfort factor.

Just trying to make the matter more interesting.
 

alphadeltaromeo

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Can you help me understand how the exhaust brake works? I'm familiar with keeping a manual in a lower gear for braking assistance, but I've not heard of exhaust braking.
 

cranetruck

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The exhaust brake is simply a butterfly valve in the exhaust pipe. It is operated by an air cylinder or by vacuum bellows.
By closing the exhaust off, the pistons meet resistance on the exhaust stroke, which translates into braking power.
This braking power is proportional to the rpm, so using a lower gear goin downhill increases the braking power.

I used mine extensively in the Rocky Mountains on my cross country trip and loved it.
 

clinto

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I've had about 5K lbs. in the back of mine and to me, it didn't seem that bad. It stopped ok, I felt safe. Obviously it isn't going to stop on a dime and I imagine a panic stop would induce some panic rofl
 

cranetruck

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Andy, the butterfly valve with air cylinder was purchased used from a muffler shop. The controller is identical to the one used for the front wheel drive, an air switch. I also added an exhaust back pressure gauge.

As far as mods I have done over the years, here is a list:

Driven off the Camp Lejeune USMC base in NC back in 1995,
it started out as an M49A2C (1968) with a N/A multifuel engine.

1)Removed the 1,200 gallon tank
2)Installed a mil spec 1975 HIAB 765 K-boom crane (from a Navy International Loadstar truck)
3) Use crane to remove winch (too much weight on front axle)
4) Built a flat bed. Used aluminum deck plate from the Loadstar
5) Flipped hubs and installed single 900's
6) Installed right angle air intake
7) Installed light bar with flood lights and "DOT" markers
Installed marker lights on front fenders and on truck bed
9) Separated rear brake lines and installed brake lock on one side. Experimented with braking one side only to help turn in mud and snow. Never finished experiments, but it did make the turn radius smaller by a few feet.
10) Installed speedo adapter for 1100's tires.
11)Installed 1100's tires
12)Converted to turbo (non-whistler)
13)Installed device to make buzzer work for turn signals
14)Installed back-up lights that work off shift lever
15)Installed "plumbing" so that axle housings could be pressurized.
16)Installed coolant filter
17)Installed alcohol evaporator
18)Installed backup alarm
19)Installed crankcase breather filter venting it just below the mushroom for recirculation of crankcase fumes
20)Installed higher air intake for fording.
21)Installed 3-station VIC-1 intercom w/CB radio
22)Installed flame heater monitoring device
23)Installed pyro and boost gauges
24)Installed "inclinometer" to check tilt while driving on side slopes
25)Installed "Bikini top" , painted it white for the cross country trip
26)Replaced home made bed with M756 pipeline truck bed
27)Installed LED type rear TTS lights
28)Started to install new military style marker lights, including blackout marker lights
29)Installed plywood custom radiator cover
30) Installed modified 25Amp regulator
31) Installed air operated exhaust brake
32) Installed headlight relay w/override switch
33) Installed relay to reduce load on turn signal flasher unit
34) Installed separate vent line for the airpak
35) Installed oil sampler valve on oil cooler
36) Installed fiberglass battery box
37) Installed dual battery maintainer/charger (years ago. It failed in a lightning storm and has not been replaced)
3 Installed radio mount and suppressor
39)Installed 24 to 12 V power supply for CB radio
40)Installed dual fuel tank system for biodiesel w/control panel
41)Installed 110VAC heating pad for batteries
42)Installed HMMWV convex mirror on passenger side.
43) Installed brake line pressure gauge
44)Installed device to monitor fuel density compensator movement
Easily shows difference in viscosity for diesel and biodiesel. Installed a gauge for it.
45) Installed a heated fuel tank system with valves and a control panel.


Top speed 62 mph
Max boost noted: 12 psi
Max fuel milage noted: 9.5 mpg.
Weight empty: 16,000 lb
Crane lift capacity: 8,250 lb 6ft out, 4,200 lb 12 ft out etc.
Crane max reach: 25 ft
Fording ready for 5 ft of water. (by plugging bell housing and pressurizing axle housings and transfer case)
 

SierraHotel

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Location
Haymarket, Virginia
Bjorn,
Do you have any tutorials for any of these modifications for some of us amateur, armchair, wrench turners to follow, specifically for me the back-up light and alarm mods (but I would love to see all!)? Somehow I doubt it, but you never know.
 

alphadeltaromeo

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Alto, GA
This is a fantastic list of modifications over the time owned! I'm quite impressed indeed. Much appreciated for investing the time to do the work and provide the "how-to" to actually perform the work. Also thanks for posting the list. It's quite inspiring.

I've also enjoyed watching the progress of dman's work and various other MVrs. Keep up the excellent work!
 

builder77

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I have only put about 400miles on my truck, but I have no lack of confidence in the amount of brake power the drums have. I would rather spend the upgrade time/money on a split system brake. I was wondering though if the drums are self adjusting or not?
 

cranetruck

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Only one time during the trip when I was hauling the 9,500 lb trailer did I have trouble stopping, the car in front of me decided to to stop for a yellow traffic light instead of going thru, which I intended to do. Stopped the truck and trailer with a foot to spare.

This brings up a question, how close should all brakes be adjusted, including the trailer brakes for an ideal stop? I never adjusted the trailer brakes and they may not have been up to par for an emergency stop. Total weight, truck plus trailer was 31,000 lb.

Andy, thanks for pointing out the HIAB thing, it's a 1975 model 765. Fixed the error.
 

Scrounger

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Southern, Maryland
With standard air brakes I adjust the slack adjuster down till the shoes are up against the drum then back the adjuster nut back one half turn. That leaves about 1/32” of clearance between the shoe and drum. Without looking in a TM I should think that 1/32” is a good start.
 

Stretch44875

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I adjusted the brakes according to the TM, and it greatly improved the brake pedal and stopping power. Have had 7-8 tons on the back,and it still stops well.

Dennis
 
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