SSG ALBANESE
Member
- 142
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Monterey, California
Already checked the card today. Very clean, no burn marks or bad smells. Looks brand new still. Still I used and eraser and cleaned the contacts.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Does this look good GP Relay
- Thread starter SSG ALBANESE
- Start date
SSG ALBANESE
Member
- 142
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Monterey, California
Ok, with new solenoid and no wire detached, blue wire to screw "ground" on wiper fluid hose, ignition in the wait like position the wait light came on and cycled, glow plugs warmed and engine fired.
Last edited:
- 26,246
- 1,179
- 113
- Location
- NY
Ok, without removing any wires.
Put the meter to DC volts and place the black lead to a clean ground. You can use the engine, or master cylinder or the front battery negative terminal.
With the red lead, touch the top post (big red wire), you should see 24 volts. (key on or off)
Next, touch the red lead to the small red wire. You should see 12v when the key is on(and I can't remember if it may have voltage with the key off. If it does that's ok)
Next, touch the red lead to the big orange wire, you should not see voltage unless the small blue wire is grounded. Ground it and see if you get 24 volts on the orange wire. It will suddenly drop to around 12 volts, thats what it does when the gps are on.
If you do all these tests, then the only other thing to see is if the GP controller card is supplying a ground to make the relay function. You can switch the meter to read ohms and Put the red lead on the blue wire(with it disconnected) to see if you get ground with the key on. If you don't, it may be your controller card or your temp sensor.
You can test the sensor for ohms(specification is in the diagnosing section of the TM(-20), IIRC.
Put the meter to DC volts and place the black lead to a clean ground. You can use the engine, or master cylinder or the front battery negative terminal.
With the red lead, touch the top post (big red wire), you should see 24 volts. (key on or off)
Next, touch the red lead to the small red wire. You should see 12v when the key is on(and I can't remember if it may have voltage with the key off. If it does that's ok)
Next, touch the red lead to the big orange wire, you should not see voltage unless the small blue wire is grounded. Ground it and see if you get 24 volts on the orange wire. It will suddenly drop to around 12 volts, thats what it does when the gps are on.
If you do all these tests, then the only other thing to see is if the GP controller card is supplying a ground to make the relay function. You can switch the meter to read ohms and Put the red lead on the blue wire(with it disconnected) to see if you get ground with the key on. If you don't, it may be your controller card or your temp sensor.
You can test the sensor for ohms(specification is in the diagnosing section of the TM(-20), IIRC.
SSG ALBANESE
Member
- 142
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Monterey, California
Controller (Cucv electric legacy) looks good. No burns, smells and contact points look great.
- 26,246
- 1,179
- 113
- Location
- NY
I guess test the temp sensor next.
There is no way to test the GP controller card(ourselves).
Member Antennaclimber can test them, I think. He also makes new cards and sells them on the site in the classifieds.
There is no way to test the GP controller card(ourselves).
Member Antennaclimber can test them, I think. He also makes new cards and sells them on the site in the classifieds.
- 26,246
- 1,179
- 113
- Location
- NY
Perhaps PM him and ask him to look at this thread and he may have more to offer.
I'm thinking your controller card is bad from the way you used to "jump it" to the 24V +, to the blue wire(ground).
I'm thinking your controller card is bad from the way you used to "jump it" to the 24V +, to the blue wire(ground).
Last edited:
SSG ALBANESE
Member
- 142
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Monterey, California
Ordered one this morning just in case it was bad. It will be here Tuesday.
SSG ALBANESE
Member
- 142
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Monterey, California
I will make sure and let you know if it works
Last edited:
SSG ALBANESE
Member
- 142
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Monterey, California
Ok, finally got the correct sensor. Threw it in the refrigerator to ensure it would be as cold as a 40 degree morning. Plugged it in and still no wait light, cranked just to be sure glow plugs didn't get hot. going to test my wires and see what I get out of them
SSG ALBANESE
Member
- 142
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Monterey, California
Ok, I get 1.6 ohms between yellow and black wire.
- 1,367
- 949
- 113
- Location
- State College, PA
As the temp increases the resistance of the sensor should decrease. 1.6 ohms is not correct for 40 degrees. It should be closer to 6K or 7K ohms.
If you disconnect the sensor, the card will see a high resistance and should turn on the Wait light and send the ground command to the GP relay.
It would be best to measure the resistance of the sensor without the wires connected to it.
If you disconnect the sensor, the card will see a high resistance and should turn on the Wait light and send the ground command to the GP relay.
It would be best to measure the resistance of the sensor without the wires connected to it.
SSG ALBANESE
Member
- 142
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Monterey, California
Antennaclimber,
Thanks for the response.
What I did was, plugged in the cold sensor and turned the key, but didn't get any glow. Seeing no change I didn't install the new sensor. I tested the wires with ignition off black lead to black wire, red lead to yellow yielding 1.6 ohms. Left the the sensor unplugged and still no wait light.
Just found another GP card. Pretty sure it's out of a M1009 but tried it anyway lol. No change.
That being said, even though the GP card looks good it must be bad or I have a short/grounding issue someplace, which might as well be the same issue causing my turning signals to not flash.
iv been told you sell new cards. If this is the case how can I purchase one from you?
Thanks for the response.
What I did was, plugged in the cold sensor and turned the key, but didn't get any glow. Seeing no change I didn't install the new sensor. I tested the wires with ignition off black lead to black wire, red lead to yellow yielding 1.6 ohms. Left the the sensor unplugged and still no wait light.
Just found another GP card. Pretty sure it's out of a M1009 but tried it anyway lol. No change.
That being said, even though the GP card looks good it must be bad or I have a short/grounding issue someplace, which might as well be the same issue causing my turning signals to not flash.
iv been told you sell new cards. If this is the case how can I purchase one from you?
Last edited:
- 1,367
- 949
- 113
- Location
- State College, PA
New cards are available here
http://www.glowplugcards.com/
And here:
http://www.hillbillywizard.com/cucv-and-k30-parts/cucv-glow-plug-card-new/
http://www.glowplugcards.com/
And here:
http://www.hillbillywizard.com/cucv-and-k30-parts/cucv-glow-plug-card-new/