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Does this sound like a fuel issue

TNDRIVER

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I thought that ATF was more for cleaning sticking injectors and stuff like that, but yes, it has a lot of detergents and will burn just fine in a diesel engine.
Looks like he had a clean fuel filter, that leaves the tank pickup. All the smoke something is not right if it is getting plenty of clean fuel. You are right the ATF will not do anything for the growths in the fuel but might degunk the pump and injectors, cheaper than a rebuild, Worked on the old Cummins and Cats before low sulfur fuels. Two trucks, dropped both tanks, one twice!
 

Milcommoguy

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Looks like he had a clean fuel filter, that leaves the tank pickup. All the smoke something is not right if it is getting plenty of clean fuel. You are right the ATF will not do anything for the growths in the fuel but might degunk the pump and injectors, cheaper than a rebuild, Worked on the old Cummins and Cats before low sulfur fuels. Two trucks, dropped both tanks, one twice!

There could be a screen clogged up valve in the end of the filter. It's a little flapper disks / spring loaded over the end. I know doesn't make sense if a clogged filter and if pump can draw fuel it opens. Something to do with gelled fuel to keep the rig running??? Looks like this black thingie >

filter.jpg

It's what I had in my M998 rig.

Don't ask me what I think. Correct me if wrong, CAMO
 

TNDRIVER

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There could be a screen clogged up valve in the end of the filter. It's a little flapper disks / spring loaded over the end. I know doesn't make sense if a clogged filter and if pump can draw fuel it opens. Something to do with gelled fuel to keep the rig running??? Looks like this black thingie >

View attachment 825556

It's what I had in my M998 rig.

Don't ask me what I think. Correct me if wrong, CAMO
You are correct sir there is a bypass in the round end. My 998 had so much algae and rust gunked up it was pretty much stopped up completely. An acid dip fixed it. The 1123 had split open along the side. Dremel tooled off,new one was press fitted with epoxy. The white smoke indicates the real problem "may" be elsewhere but one step at a time ,clean fuel, clean air. It's a diesel, suck squeeze bang blow. Sorry I don't take pictures I just fix stuff.
 

Gamble

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There could be a screen clogged up valve in the end of the filter. It's a little flapper disks / spring loaded over the end. I know doesn't make sense if a clogged filter and if pump can draw fuel it opens. Something to do with gelled fuel to keep the rig running??? Looks like this black thingie >

View attachment 825556

It's what I had in my M998 rig.

Don't ask me what I think. Correct me if wrong, CAMO
This end is in the fuel tank correct? I havent yet dropped the tank and looked inside.
 

TNDRIVER

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This end is in the fuel tank correct? I havent yet dropped the tank and looked inside.
If your truck has the rectangular cover in the bed behind the passenger seat side, remove that to reveal the fuel sender. Round thing 2 wires 5 or 6 machine screws. Pulls straight up. These things are translucent and you can see in them easily. The pickup with the sock is straight down. The box like surround is a fuel trap to keep fuel around the pickup when it starts to run low. (They come loose sometimes) A small amount of debris/rust particles should not be a problem. Water or algae is a problem (visible water under the fuel, you can see it, algae turns the fuel dark amber and can look like slim floating in the bottom) Go to plan B if no inspection cover, drain the fuel (full holds about 25 gallon or so, black plug on the front end. Replace with the factory plug rated for fuel use per Steve/Retired War Horse. (Steve is plan C) Getting the plug out if its old is sometimes difficult, trim away the visible part and push it inside. If you get a considerable amount of slimy stuff out this way its probably time to drop the tank. Eyeballing the inside of the tank gets you to the point of knowing that you have a good flow of clean fuel. At that point if getting some ATF into the pump and injectors does not do the trick, plan C, CALL STEVE. You will have gotten into pump and injector territory. Keep us informed please.
 

Gamble

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Today, I'm going to change the lift pump as I'm trying to eliminate the straight forward items first:

https://tchavers.wistia.com/medias/a15fr2ob4o

But before I start this, does this appear to be a lift pump issue. See vid.

I opened that valve to check flow and see if I was getting air in the fuel somehow. Because the truck shuts down unexpectedly as seen in the video.

After I will check the tank as I do not have that panel behind the rear seat to check the fuel sender.
 
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frank8003

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I have had trouble on equipment through the years with different types of fuel lines where the inner liner separates from the outer part of the hose some times it happens near a heat source . It seams the equipment will start and run but when more more fuel is pulled through the line the in side liner collapse and stopes the fuel and when off and no suction the liner opens back up and the equipment will restart .
swagelok flex hose does not do that
 

Action

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Today, I'm going to change the lift pump as I'm trying to eliminate the straight forward items first:

https://tchavers.wistia.com/medias/a15fr2ob4o

But before I start this, does this appear to be a lift pump issue. See vid.

I opened that valve to check flow and see if I was getting air in the fuel somehow. Because the truck shuts down unexpectedly as seen in the video.

After I will check the tank as I do not have that panel behind the rear seat to check the fuel sender.
Since no one likes to look in the TMs, I did it for you. The fuel system troubleshhoting section is around page 2-95 of TM 9-2320-280-20-2. There is even a section on "how to use the troubleshooting guide".
STEP 2. Does the engine start and stay running?
If no, go to B, Page 2-106.
......
pump pressure needs to be at least 3 psi.
Or, remove the inlet line from the injection pump. You should get 1 pint of fuel in 30 seconds of cranking.
The previous steps tell you what to unhook to keep the engine from starting.
This will test your lift pump.
Clean out a plastic bottle and mark a line for 1 pint. you can put fuel back in the tank.
 

Gamble

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Since no one likes to look in the TMs, I did it for you. The fuel system troubleshhoting section is around page 2-95 of TM 9-2320-280-20-2. There is even a section on "how to use the troubleshooting guide".
STEP 2. Does the engine start and stay running?
If no, go to B, Page 2-106.
......
pump pressure needs to be at least 3 psi.
Or, remove the inlet line from the injection pump. You should get 1 pint of fuel in 30 seconds of cranking.
The previous steps tell you what to unhook to keep the engine from starting.
This will test your lift pump.
Clean out a plastic bottle and mark a line for 1 pint. you can put fuel back in the tank.
I just read that. Btw, I do like reading the TMs. It has helped change trans oil cooler, seats, batteries, vent lines, etc. Just wanted an eye ball on the issue is all. Taking the plastic bottle to truck now. Will update. Thank you for this. Perfect timing.
 

Action

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That did not look like enough fuel coming from the water drain. Also, if you leave that drain open while running, won't that be removing pressure from the other line going to the injection pump?
 

DREDnot

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Seems like the lift pump...most likely...
Could also be air being sucked in from loose connections or deteriorated hoses.
I believe you are only supposed to open that drain cock when the engine is running to clear out/check for water contamination.
Ive changed out a fair amount of lift pumps on these things recently and they all failed differently.
 

Action

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Seems like the lift pump...most likely...
Could also be air being sucked in from loose connections or deteriorated hoses.
I believe you are only supposed to open that drain cock when the engine is running to clear out/check for water contamination.
Ive changed out a fair amount of lift pumps on these things recently and they all failed differently.
You can open the valve whenever you want. I was just stating that leaving it open while running, as in the video, any pressure going out the valve will not be pushing fuel to the IP. If the lift pump is working properly, with the engine off and not cranking, you will get liquid out of the valve from residual pressure in the filter can.
 

Milcommoguy

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Going to have to start somewhere. IMO, looks a little weak on the "dribble test" Another book (easy read) Chapter 3.


Not going to guess.... old rigs, old parts, NEW problem/s. Search SS site here too. 🔍 up in the corner fuel or pump. Pick up on some of the tips before busting a nut... bolts too... Note: Pump removal, push pin, filters, vents, return lines, hoses, tricks, etc. Smart to go tank to IP... check or clean or replace. Quick fix I get it... then something else. It's all easy cuz we all have been there done that. Got eR done drive it up to the Desert (Rosamond) for a test run. Good luck.

No freeway cruiser here, CAMO
 
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TNDRIVER

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Today, I'm going to change the lift pump as I'm trying to eliminate the straight forward items first:

https://tchavers.wistia.com/medias/a15fr2ob4o

But before I start this, does this appear to be a lift pump issue. See vid.

I opened that valve to check flow and see if I was getting air in the fuel somehow. Because the truck shuts down unexpectedly as seen in the video.

After I will check the tank as I do not have that panel behind the rear seat to check the fuel sender.
Before you remove the pump(lift pump) remove the vent hose ON THE TOP OF THE FUEL PUMP. It should be dry. If you have a bad enough fuel pump to cause the shut down it should be squirting fuel out the vent when running. Let us know what you find.
 

Milcommoguy

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Before you remove the pump(lift pump) remove the vent hose ON THE TOP OF THE FUEL PUMP. It should be dry. If you have a bad enough fuel pump to cause the shut down it should be squirting fuel out the vent when running. Let us know what you find.
If there is fuel at vent port.. there's a good chance fuel is finding it way to the engine oil. That could be bad news.

Rig up a cheep o vacuum / pressure gauge and come up with a number (science) to be sure. Again... here's what I did.

No guessing on or off the trail, CAMO


IMG_5514.jpg
 

Daves86

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If there is fuel at vent port.. there's a good chance fuel is finding it way to the engine oil. That could be bad news.

Rig up a cheep o vacuum / pressure gauge and come up with a number (science) to be sure. Again... here's what I did.

No guessing on or off the trail, CAMO


View attachment 825880
That looks like a nice mod to have. And useful information. Did you do a how to on installing that gage?
 

Gamble

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Ladies and gentlemen,

I present you with the source of the problem.... The fuel check valves. Once removed, the Hmmwv hummed like a drunken bear. I will likely still replace the fuel pump per RWs recommendation but I want to give a special shout out to Mike Vadin from Black Dog Customs for giving me the idea.

And a special thank you to everyone in this thread. Thanks.

For the first time ever I have a running HMMWV. Now if I could finally receive these plates. But that's for another day.

Thanks everyone
 

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Retiredwarhorses

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Ladies and gentlemen,

I present you with the source of the problem.... The fuel check valves. Once removed, the Hmmwv hummed like a drunken bear. I will likely still replace the fuel pump per RWs recommendation but I want to give a special shout out to Mike Vadin from Black Dog Customs for giving me the idea.

And a special thank you to everyone in this thread. Thanks.

For the first time ever I have a running HMMWV. Now if I could finally receive these plates. But that's for another day.

Thanks everyone
Those check valves get clogged with algae and gum up the check valve, a quick cleaning and they are as a good as new, but you must treat the algae issue too. I’ve had several auctions trucks lately that require a complete fuel system rebuild.
New fuel tank is key in the last 3 I’ve done....
 

Gamble

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Los Angeles, CA
Those check valves get clogged with algae and gum up the check valve, a quick cleaning and they are as a good as new, but you must treat the algae issue too. I’ve had several auctions trucks lately that require a complete fuel system rebuild.
New fuel tank is key in the last 3 I’ve done....
Is there a treatment for the algae that will eliminate it from the fuel system? Biobor JF Biocide or something similar?
 
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