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DogHead Relay Mod Backfire?

usmcpatriot

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Location
Bumpass, VA
I have to thank indy4x4fab for the pictures and the older wiring schematics will check as soon as I replace my fueltank, Was checking for placement for the mystery wire and found that the rear of the hydrobooter was leaking. Well replaced the master cylinder and the booster, dropped the tank while I had a friend over, and man was the sock filthy with 25 years of gunk. Waiting for a replacement sender from Quebec. You all are great..have to get running her for the apocalypse...
 

Warthog

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Hey wait just a minute. Indy was reposting the diagram that I drew the other day. See post #13.
:evil:

Just kidding. Glad someone gets some use out of the diagrams

With the description of the mystery wire and the issues that it causes, I did draw the "early" version of the diagram. I was guessing as I do not have an early truck and have never seen the wiring.:)
 

indy4x4fab

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Hey wait just a minute. Indy was reposting the diagram that I drew the other day. See post #13.
:evil:

Just kidding. Glad someone gets some use out of the diagrams

With the description of the mystery wire and the issues that it causes, I did draw the "early" version of the diagram. I was guessing as I do not have an early truck and have never seen the wiring.:)
My thought in re-post what you had already posted was that having the two diagrams one after anther would help for comparison purposes.

But you gave me the idea Sir.
 

pbrstreetgang

Member
114
0
16
Location
Kentucky
I pulled apart everything at the pos & neg terminal blocks and cleaned, shined, etc. I noticed that there is a wire (see photo) that is braided that bridged the two terminal blocks together that was broken. This had three little plastic squares at the bottom. Can I simply splice this back together and go on?

Also, does anyone have a picture of exactly how everything connects back at the terminal blocks. I forgot to photograph the before and now I am confused on where the blue - orange and red wires go back.

This may be the answer to my starting issues if there was a short or a failure to ground
 

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Warthog

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That is the noise suppression diode. Not needed. If it was shorted, when you attached the batteries you would see major sparks.

Where the colored wires attach doesn't mater as long as they are on the top bar. That is the hot side. The black wires are the grounds and attach to the bottom bar.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

pbrstreetgang

Member
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16
Location
Kentucky
Yes, thank you to Warthog and all of the other helpful members
Who keep this site great.
This site is like a bar for cucv owners who can tell their problems
To someone who will listen, then offer advice.
My wife just tells me to get rid of it
I can't
I have CARC in my blood
 

usmcpatriot

Member
197
-80
18
Location
Bumpass, VA
Ok, hey all, the "mystery wire" saga continues. The dingleberry that I am did not notice that the wire, that is purple w/white stripe is capped off, and no connection on the steering column to attach to. Started looking for the wire placement ended up replacing the master cylinder and booster, and dropping the tank replacing the sending unit....I'm officially broke till next payday....
 

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Warthog

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.... did not notice that the wire, that is purple w/white stripe is capped off, and no connection on the steering column to attach to. ....
Was there some type of jumper on the wire connectors?

If the wires where jumpered then there is no need for a switch.

Yes the mystery deepens
 

M1008driver

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pbrstreetgang

Member
114
0
16
Location
Kentucky
Still working through the wires to the starter and came across a weatherpack plug on a blue / red wire that was not plugged into anything over near the glow plug relay around the master cylinder?


I have pulled the main starter pos cable and checked for shor as well as the ground wire going to the starter

I think that I have a burned fusible link in the main red wire running off the battery along the top of the firewall over to the glow plug relay.
 
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