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Doghead relay mod not needed after July 1985 production

Smokinyoda

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This is how the Air Force solved the bad relay problem in my '86 M1009. Guess they never heard of the DH mod?:mrgreen:

Cant tell by the pic but the plug and the 2 wires experienced a definite "meltdown". At least the truck came with a new starter!:beer:
 

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1 Patriot-of-many

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Went to do the Doghead relay mod, Army must have experienced a runaway

I finally got around to doing the relay mod only to find the Army already did a replacement. Should I still do the mod or is this relay suitable that they already put in.

2nd What the heck are all these other capped off connections? For the radios?

David meats Goliath....
 

1 Patriot-of-many

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Can you add this to the other thread then? Or should I delete it and addon? Don't you want to be popular? Have your name in history :)
 

Warthog

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Replace it. You have no idea what it really is and when it was installed.

For your second question:

GEN2 realy, 24v Voltmeter Relay and the Diagnositic system Tach Buffer
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/50551-cucv-switches-diodes-relays.html?highlight=diodes

Geez I love this site, but trying post pictures in the original post is quite frustrating
Why is that? Just click on the Go Advanced button and it works just like a new post. I just did it.


There really is no need to start a new thread for each of your CUCV questions. We have covered just about every possible issue many times. Just takes a little digging
 
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doghead

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Merged them.

What is the number on that relay? (I can't read it clearly).
 

Warthog

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15591718

Same number that is listed in the -20p 1992 edition
 
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doghead

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Looks like you answered your own question! More than once now!
 

1 Patriot-of-many

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I really hate cutting perfectly good wires and harness.... Just wanted 16 times to make sure this is a good thing. Just got done. Doghead your "name" will live on.
Thanks for humoring me Doghead, I seriously didn't mean any disrespect, just wanted to make sure this was necessary, I suck at stripping wires and more than once in the past I've ended up with not enough LOL.
THANK YOU.
 

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1stSarge

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Not quite sure from the photos, but it looks like the purple wire might be where the red one goes, and the red one might be where the purple one goes. Or the other way around. I could be wrong.

For future readers, when doing this mod, make sure that you solder the wire ends to the terminal and skink tube the connection, otherwise a crimp on connector can become loose over time due to the wires and terminals heating up and expanding and contracting, creating a loose connection and possible arcing and sparking.

The connections also will increase their resistance to current flow as most metals' molecular make up forces their operating characteristics when conducting electricity into a positive temperature coefficient. Resulting in an increase in current with the higher temperatures. You can read about that here.

Temperature coefficient - Wikipedia

It is also a good idea to replace the GEN2 relay when doing this mod as the heavier coils in the new relay will draw slightly more amperage resulting in a stronger magnetic field in the alternators, due to them charging the batteries at a now increased rate, at the expense of more amperage draw to the exciter circuit to the alternators, causing a heavier load to be placed on the contacts of the GEN2 relay...


...and the GEN1 and GEN2 light bulb connections.


It also seems that there is an A3 in the photos.


.:rolleyes:
 

1 Patriot-of-many

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Not quite sure from the photos, but it looks like the purple wire might be where the red one goes, and the red one might be where the purple one goes. Or the other way around. I could be wrong.

For future readers, when doing this mod, make sure that you solder the wire ends to the terminal and skink tube the connection, otherwise a crimp on connector can become loose over time due to the wires and terminals heating up and expanding and contracting, creating a loose connection and possible arcing and sparking.

The connections also will increase their resistance to current flow as most metals' molecular make up forces their operating characteristics when conducting electricity into a positive temperature coefficient. Resulting in an increase in current with the higher temperatures. You can read about that here.

Temperature coefficient - Wikipedia

It is also a good idea to replace the GEN2 relay when doing this mod as the heavier coils in the new relay will draw slightly more amperage resulting in a stronger magnetic field in the alternators, due to them charging the batteries at a now increased rate, at the expense of more amperage draw to the exciter circuit to the alternators, causing a heavier load to be placed on the contacts of the GEN2 relay...


...and the GEN1 and GEN2 light bulb connections.


It also seems that there is an A3 in the photos.


.:rolleyes:
Could you expand on the GEN2 relay as I always have to blip the throttle on the Gen two light on startup.
 

cpf240

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Could you expand on the GEN2 relay as I always have to blip the throttle on the Gen two light on startup.
I believe that is operating normally. Mine is the same way, with both GEN lights, though usually the GEN2 light goes out before the GEN1 light. Both go out after giving it some fuel. This is even part of the procedure in the TM's, as I recall.
 

acmunro

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I just repaired a M1008 where the Starter mounted solenoid would stick on. First time I had that happen. It's a good Idea on any older vehicle especially a CUCV to have the means to quickly disconnect the batteries. As was stated before any solenoid can stick in a closed position.
I feel the doghead mod is a good one.
 
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