Doghead Starter problem

[Liv2Dive2]

Ok so today I preformed the Doghead starter mod, started right up, unfortunately while I was tightening the relay down I bridged from the right side bolt to the top right connection (red wire) I heard a pop, got some white smoke on the right side of the engine well near the firewall, and now I get a loud click and no start...what did I fry, and how do I fix it.

Thanks

 

[K9Vic]

Sorry but I just have to say this, but next time disconnect the batteries before you do any electrical work.

 

[Warthog]

You smoked the "live" 24v fusible link. You should always disconnect both batteries when ever you are working on electrical stuff on the CUCVs.

You smoked the red fusible link behind the rear battery.

It is a 16 gauge link.

You just gather up all the smoke you let out and stuff it back in the wire. Don't miss any or it won't work right

 

[Liv2Dive2]

Ok, so I found what I blew, it's the wire to the firewall, in the picture which is marked 1, it cooked right next to the black piece in the wire, not sure what this is or if I can simply cut it out and splice on the other side.

 

[Liv2Dive2]

So I need a new 16 G fusible link then, do they sell them at NAPA? Sadly I did disconnect them, put everything together and checked to make sure it started. Then didn't re-disconnect them, learning has occured...disconnect from start until FINISH!!! On the phone with NAPA now, hope they have one...

 

[Warthog]

There are many videos on youtube that show you how to replace a fusible link. The black barrel connector is just a cover. Cut it off and splice in a new fusible link.

The link part is the special wire. Its cover is designed not to catch fire. The connector is not the fusible link.

They may have a link at NPAPA alredy made up, but you may have to buy the wire, some connectors and make your own.

Have you read the sticky that I posted about fusible links?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/74776-fusible-links-101-a.html

 

[Liv2Dive2]

Ok NAPA has fusible links but they say they're 12 volt...I assume they won't work, anyone know where I can get one?

 

[Warthog]

It is just wire. It doesn't care what voltage it is. I think it is rated up to 600v.

 

[Liv2Dive2]

Thanks Warthog, I was searching as you posted that, my first search didn't help much as I didn't know what the fusible link was called

Again thanks for the help...

 

[Liv2Dive2]

Well, all things considered the lesson was not an expensive one...3.99 for a new fusible link, I'm back up and running, now on to the heater motor...sans connected batteries thanks for all your help...this site as others have said is amazing!!!!

 

[JGBallew]

You smoked the "live" 24v fusible link. You should always disconnect both batteries when ever you are working on electrical stuff on the CUCVs.

You smoked the red fusible link behind the rear battery.

It is a 16 gauge link.

You just gather up all the smoke you let out and stuff it back in the wire. Don't miss any or it won't work right

Ahh. Ye of the Lucas school of automotive wiring.

 

[WARWAG]

Lucas..... The Prince of Darkness!

 

[Barrman]

Lucas is how learned to wire a vehicle as well. That almost sounded like a praise of Lucas. I guess, "I learned how to rewire a vehicle the right way because it started out with a Lucas system" would be better.

It would be a good idea to remove the batteries and take every connection on the two bus bars on the firewall where your burned fusable link was apart, clean everything and then put it back together again. Just do one connection at a time if you are worried about getting everything back together correct. Each of those connections could lead to a no start condition out in the middle of nowhere on some cold, dark rainy night in the middle of nowhere. Lots easier to do it in your driveway with all your tools there and no time limit.