Don't Let Your Brother-In-Law Drive Your Deuce

[11Echo]

This piston came from a locked engine. The little bit it was shortened by the bends also allowed the crank to hit the bottom of the piston. Bad to try pulling it without pulling the injectors first.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

If it just stopped running while he was driving, it may have a piston similar to the one above now. Pull the injectors, blow out the water. After you have blown out the water, replace the injectors.

Now, you should be doing this everytime you get in the truck, but if your not get into the habit:

Pull out the engine stop and tap the starter. It should roll over if all the internals are still good, and the head gasket isn't leaking fast enough to have filled the cylinder back up while you were reinstalling the injectors. (I've had that happen) The reason you crank it over with the engine stop out is to check for hydrostatic lock. The military requires this step in their procedure for starting.

If it was coolent, you will be able to tell when it shoots out of the injector hole. If it was just water, check the intake for a leak that could have sucked water in other than at the mushroom. (unless you know that's where it came from)

 

[LanceRobson]

Now, you should be doing this everytime you get in the truck, but if your not get into the habit:

Pull out the engine stop and tap the starter.

Maybe a better way to describe it is to give the start button a FIRM decisive but momentary poke. A soft or tentative poke will eventually lead to a toasted starter button due to current arcing. The start button carries the full starting current.

Lance

 

[GoHot229]

Theres a bit in the TM's about 'hydrolock' and the damage you can do if you try to turn the motor over, sounds like you should pull the injectors and see if it will then turn over, if not I'd be thinking of a broken rod? or some internal damage. hoping for you that its just a head gasket blown........

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Maybe a better way to describe it is to give the start button a FIRM decisive but momentary poke. A soft or tentative poke will eventually lead to a toasted starter button due to current arcing. The start button carries the full starting current.

Lance

Your right, you should push the switch in all the way firmly, but only need to hold it for a revolution or two.

The start switch doesn't carry the full current in any deuce I've ever been it. The switch energizes the solenoid, which then energizes the starter. But it can burn out if you barely hold it in or 'tap' it as I said.

 

[Parker2]

This piston came from a locked engine. The little bit it was shortened by the bends also allowed the crank to hit the bottom of the piston. Bad to try pulling it without pulling the injectors first.

Dang is that out of a multi fuel? I hope not.
The rods in my Dodge Cummins pick up are twice that thick.
Okay not twice as thick, but quite a bit thicker.

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

Hey Gents,

Thanks for all of that info. I'll be back out at the farm in three weeks. If it is locked it sounds like there's a pretty good chance the rods are bent and the head gasket is blown.

Any tips on procuring a new head gasket and replacing the rods?

Thanks mucho.

 

[11Echo]

Dang is that out of a multi fuel? I hope not.
The rods in my Dodge Cummins pick up are twice that thick.
Okay not twice as thick, but quite a bit thicker.

Smallblock Chevy piston from an engine with failed head gasket..

 

[Angus1]

If it is locked and you leave it sit for 3 weeks, Its toast.

 

[nhdiesel]

With some motors, it really doesn't take much to do major damage. We had a customer with a late 90's Lincoln with a 4.6, he parked the car a while then when he tried starting it, it made some bad noises so he left it and called us. Turns out it suffered from the defective intake manifolds for those years, and coolant had leaked into the intake. Damage done just by cranking the starter with it hydrolocked? A broken connecting rod, and the lower end of the rod flopped around and punched a hole in each side of the block.

Now just thing what could happen from a pull-start attempt. I know a diesel is much stronger than a Ford 4.6, but the starters are also stronger, and the forces from a pull-start MUCH stronger.

Jim

 

[jollyroger]

Hydrolocking a motor is bad!!!!!!! Take the conservative approach. Try turning the motor with a socket and ratchet on the front of the crankshaft or by taking the bell housing cover off and moving the motor with a flywheel wrench (prybar against the bellhousing will work in a pinch). If it wont turn at all the next step is to pull all the injectors and try cranking the motor over. If it won't move then you have a serious mechanical problem. If it shoots fluid out you got hydrolocked. Then determine what fluid came out. Green, black, yellow, clear. That will tell you where to look for the fluid leak. Green=coolant, black=oil, yellow=fuel, clear=outside water. If the motor cranks over and no fluid came out I would put the injectors back in, bleed the fuel system and see what you got.

 

[tsmall07]

Don't worry about replacement rods/pistons/head if you leave it for 3 weeks with water in the cylinder/s. Just source a new engine.

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

So, the consensus is don't worry about a new head gasket .

I'll give it a shot in two weekends and report back.

Thanks for all of the advice.

 

[K10A]

Dude if you leave the water in the engine that long it WILL be garbage.


Just because it is hydro locked now does not mean it is trash now.

Get to the truck remove the injectors and hit the starter, all the water/coolant will blow out of the injector holes, then no new engine needed.

 

[Bad_Carp]

I was thinking troll based on the responces, but 59 posts is alot for a troll. Maybe just a reading comprehension issue?

As stated by several others in this thread, If you wait 2 weeks to do anything...it will be too late and the motor will be no good.

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

Hey Guys,

Read ya loud and clear on the delay--but geography and work demand otherwise. I'll give it a shot when I get back out there and if no success, then I'll be picking up a slightly used parts truck from GL.

Donnie

 

[Bad_Carp]

Hey Guys,

Read ya loud and clear on the delay--but geography and work demand otherwise. I'll give it a shot when I get back out there and if no success, then I'll be picking up a slightly used parts truck from GL.

Donnie

Can't your brother-in-law remove the injectors and crank it over? Seems like such a waste of money and motor to let it sit for 2 weeks which will ensure a motor purchase.

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

Hi Gents,

I'm here in Texas...

To test for the hydrostatic lock (and release it), do I just need to disconnect the fuel lines coming from the IP or do I need to pull the whole injector piece out?

I was playing with one and I pulled out the two bolts on both sides and pulled back that saddle, but it's not budging. What else is needed to get the injectors out?

Thanks tons as always.

Donnie

 

[mistaken1]

I do not know exactly what it take to get the injector out without consulting the manual but it does need to come out if it is hydrostatic lock although by now there could be seized bearing and pistons.

 

[Westech]

Just tap it out (very lightly) and pull a bit. It will come out.