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Draining water from fuel tank?

Jake0147

Member
782
18
18
Location
Panton, VT
There are algae and bacteria that can grow in the fuel tank. The algae is not so bad, but the bacteria can infect a cut and require immediate medical attention..... Not good, they are nasty as blood stream infections go... All little fuel tank critters live at the boundary between water and diesel fuel.

Alcohol will emulsify the water for sure... And get it through the engine. I'm going to qualify this by saying that I am used to newer engines where this is absolutely not acceptable, and I know it used to be the standard way, but I'd really rather de-mulsify the water, or in other words, treat the fuel so that it can not absorb water in any amount, and force any emulsified water to drop out where it can be mechanically removed from the low spots by one means or another. Water (and alcohol) can and do vaporize in the injector tip towards the tail end of an injection and can actually break the nozzles off of newer injectors, HEUI in particular. Conventional nozzles can take it, unlike newer methods, however I'm not convinced that this makes it "good" for them either. Maybe not an issue at all, just my gut feeling...
 

wdbtchr

New member
883
3
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
I've always been told that water reaching the injectors in a diesel engine will flash to steam as the injector "fires" and the steam will cut chanels in the injector tip. This will cause the fuel to spray as droplets rather than a fine mist.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,319
113
Location
Schertz TX
In addition to keeping your tanks topped off and the system vents closed; you might try adding alchohol to your fuel.
Alchohol has the odd property of bonding with water, allowing it to mix with the fuel and be run through the engine and out the tailpipe.

There are also chemical 'sponges' out on the market. They consist of a fuel resistant plastic mesh tube with water absorbing polymer crystals inside. You attach the tube to the fuel tank cap retainer with it's cord and clip and drop the unit into the tank. It rolls around as you drive and the crystals absorb any water they come in contact with. When it's done it's job you just pull it out, discard and replace with a fresh one.

Algae refers to a photosynthetic organism. In a steel tank with mostly petroleum, algae cannot live. The term comes from the appearance of the goo formed from water in a diesel tank, it is stringy-gooey and looks like algae, only it has no photosynthetic activity.

The best solution is prevention. Since deuces are all different, the first thing to check is the tank cap. Make sure it doesn't leak. Then trace the vent line to find its end and make sure it won't get rain etc. Finally, keep the tank full so temperature changes will not cause large volume exchanges...when atmospheric pressure or temperature changes, the vent will admit air which could be humid. If this humid air trapped in the tank is cooled, water will be condensed out (dew). This is where most water comes from.
 

4x4 Forever

Emerald Shellback
Steel Soldiers Supporter
a

I agree that prevention is the best but I think that the milk is already spilt....

There is a product that we use offshore to test for water in our tanks and also to test for water before or during fuel transfers: The product is called
Kolor Kut water finding paste. It is manufactured by Kolor Kut Products out of Houston Texas. I do not have any further information on the manufacturer. You could probably find it a a fuel distrribution center or find out where they get it from. Maybe even order it from the manuafacturer.

It goes on a "sounding" stick or "sounding" tape. When it is placed on whatever you are going to use to test for water it is Tan in colour. If there is no water or moisture, it stays tan. If it is placed in a liquid, diesel for example, and the product starts to turn red, it indicates moisture. the brighter red it gets, the more moisture present. If it goes brilliant bright red, you got water.
 

4x4 Forever

Emerald Shellback
Steel Soldiers Supporter
b

To get the moisture or water out is another matter.

We usually contact a vandor who brings down a semi-portable set of 5 micron filters with self powered 2" transfer pump. We let them filter our fuel 1000's of gallons for the time it takes for the Kolor Kut not to show moisture. This is very expensive and even more so if only on a 50 gal tank...even if you sent up a system yourself and had all the parts it would be prohibitive.

The next down the line for cleaning would be to drain the tank and use rags or whatever you can to clean up the water/moisture. There is a product that we use that absorbs water but will not absorb petroleum. The oil spill clean up guys use the same thing. They are called "Sorbent pads", they are 2'x2' and are white in colour. You can goggle Sorbent pads and find you nearest supplier.
 

4x4 Forever

Emerald Shellback
Steel Soldiers Supporter
c

I have not heard of chemical sponges but that does not mean anything, if they have Sorbent pads, they probably make some type of product that will absorb water/moisture and then be removed.

The next I can think of would be to use a fuel treatment that absorbs the water and runs it through the engine. On the newer engines this is not acceptable but the older ones usually pass it right on through with no problems. We have done this offshore with no problems but only with the older engines, the new ones are too finicky.

The only way to prevent water/moisture has been posted before in the thread. Get clean/fresh fuel - truckstop; keep the tank(s) topped off at all times and use the equipment frequently...Which ought to be a good excuse to run you stuff!!
 
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