Drilling, tapping lubricant brand and product info Suggestions request

[gentrysgarage]

I have a TON of drilling, tapping and cutting coming up on the M135 and I need advice and recommendations. The drilling and tapping wax I have been using for 20 plus years is about gone and even if the label was legible I highly doubt it is available in today's "green" "can cause cancer" society. Most of my operations are on steel with a little aluminum...I run from stainless! LOL!! Also I go through drill bits quite often, and they don't seem to last as long as they used to, so looking for suggestions there also.

So synopsis:
Question 1: What brand and specific drilling/tapping fluid do you recommend?

Question 2: What brand and specific composition (what it is made from HS, titanium etc) drill bit have you had the longest life out of?

Thanks In Advance!

 

[Jbulach]

I use old antifreeze on the drill press and wd-40 in a refillable squirt bottle with the mag drills annular cutters, also for tapping. All ghetto, but have had good results.
I use cheap high speed bits and resharpen them as necessary on a side arm grinder with a sanding pad on it, Ive found not many people can do this though! Annular cutters last nearly forever if you don’t abuse them.

 

[gringeltaube]

For tapping and threading I use "STP Oil Treatment" in pure form, nothing else.
For drilling, soluble oil type cutting fluid.

 

[Sgt C]

I've always used Tap Magic.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I have used Tap Magic as well.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Good old used motor oil works as well as anything for coolant while drilling. Some use expensive stuff for tapping, I use atf.

 

[gringeltaube]

Good old used motor oil works as well as anything for coolant while drilling..

Yes, it works.... but as well as oil-in-water emulsions? Keep in mind, the specific heat of water/water based cutting fluids more than doubles the value for plain mineral oils - like your WMO. Also the boiling point of water is much lower, and for the same volume of fluid it takes more heat to evaporate water than oil.

 

[bigmike]

Tap magic.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes, it works.... but as well as oil-in-water emulsions? Keep in mind, the specific heat of water/water based cutting fluids more than doubles the value for plain mineral oils - like your WMO. Also the boiling point of water is much lower, and for the same volume of fluid it takes more heat to evaporate water than oil.

What kind of holes do you see him drilling in an m135 where that will come into play? I can see it making a difference in a production shop turning out parts, but an MV? Doubtful

 

[FloridaAKM]

We use Tap Magic @ work for all drilling & tapping operations, the stuff is great , but not cheap. At home in the shop, I use the same Tap Magic for drilling, tapping & machining what ever I need worked on. It works in the lathe too, but has a tendency to sling off the work & make a mess. A coolant feed to the lathe is better.

 

[frank8003]

still figuring how to answer this, multiple variable

 

[gentrysgarage]

OK so we all get an idea of what I am working on right now. Here is the project I am building for my M135, big bits cost big bucks and I will spend more to make them last longer.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...suggestions-appreciated&p=2210517#post2210517

 

[pjwest03]

OK so we all get an idea of what I am working on right now. Here is the project I am building for my M135, big bits cost big bucks and I will spend more to make them last longer.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...suggestions-appreciated&p=2210517#post2210517

Carbide tipped hole cutters are available these days. Sizes starting at 5/8" Next best thing to annular cutters in mag drill without having to buy a mag drill. Best to buy some extra pilot bits. Personally, I don't buy anything other than cobalt alloy for regular drill bits.

https://drillsandcutters.com/5-8-carbide-tipped-hole-cutter-long/

 

[gentrysgarage]

Carbide tipped hole cutters are available these days. Sizes starting at 5/8" Next best thing to annular cutters in mag drill without having to buy a mag drill. Best to buy some extra pilot bits. Personally, I don't buy anything other than cobalt alloy for regular drill bits.https://drillsandcutters.com/5-8-carbide-tipped-hole-cutter-long/

Thanks PJWest I will order some up today!

 

[MikeHaugen]

As far as oil goes, I also use tap-magic most of the time. Is it the best? Probably not but works well and is fairly universal for most of my work.

As far as bits, cobalt are good but a little more brittle and a little harder to sharpen than hss. Titanium is a coating, not a composition.

For hand drilling, most coatings are not very advantageous but in a drill press titanium would be good. At work I use the purple bits (something like carbonium nitrate or something) that are very expensive and do little in hand drilling applications but I'm not buying them so why not?

But for a quick answer, at least for me as far as value/usefulness/easy to find for hand drilling or drill press use I guess I would buy norseman black and gold hss bits. Not real cheap but not too crazy expensive either.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[simp5782]

I use Brute cutting wax. I use champion Brute bits (1/4" 5/16 and 3/8") are the only bits i buy. I have a reamer frame bit that goes from 5/16 to 5/8 and a bigger one from 7/16 to 3/4 that will eat thru the toughest metal without a mag drill.

here is the reamer bit going thru 1/2" angle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6xEHOjQtfo

 

[gentrysgarage]

Thanks Guyz for the advice these are the answers with brand names, that I am looking for.

Buying the Drill America Cobalt hole saw set, tap magic and Brute cutting wax today. I have needed reamers for awhile and always held off but after I get the gin pole built and recover financially from it I will pick up a set of those Champion Bits that are a rather good deal as far as reamer prices go! (I liked and subscribed to your YouTube Channel Simp!) Once I run out of bits I will be looking to pick up a set of Norseman Black and Gold...I think I have a knockoff of them now and are lasting me better than the HSS and Cobalt in hand drilling.
PS will be going with the smaller size 3 font from now on as per suggestion.

 

[Wecsogery]

I use any leftover motor oil for steel; Ed's Red or wd40 for aluminum.
Not saying either of those are the best. Just what I use.

 

[Neophyte]

Tap magic, Cobalt drills, Guhring taps (the best I’ve found to date)

Bob

 

[frank8003]

still figuring how to answer this, multiple variable

This is moved from another post where it didn't belong for future searches......

"my steel material order" Just drilling 5/8" holes thru 1/4" and 5/16" steel.
What flavor steels are ordered?
Is it 1018 or what is it your going to use?
Is it steel referred to as A572 grade 55?

Are you drilling freehand with portable or a drill press or a portable magnetic drill press?
Are you using Morse taper twist drills or a chuck with Silver and Deming type twist drills?
If you could reduce the font size you are using, that would be helpful, I can read your posts from across the room.

Font is mo better, Just ducky. ThankYou

So you are not using taper shank twist drill
You wearing them out, I assume all are HSS.
I assume you will be doing more drilling after this job
Consider a Drill Doctor 750, Saves it all.

It is all about the chip takes the heat away and speeds and feeds.
Formula is four times the cutting speed divided by the diameter,
hasn't changed much since the used to use "bits" to drill holes when building ships.
"bits" are for wood, (like in "brace and bit"), or an auger drill. Twist drills are for metal.
And it was asked what one would use as a sort of liquid to facilitate drilling holes.

I have drilled 10's of thousands of holes, got paid for that.
Most of the time they were all what I call "one time holes" inasmuch as if it wasn't right then the piece was scrap. Aircraft, submarines, ships, weapons, motors, helicopters, fire systems, railroad rail metal, plow steel, etc.
Everything needs holes in it.
I used to drill square holes all day long. Interesting stuff.

Would you like to start at WHY a normal jobbers twist drill has a 118° point on it?
Why that 118° should be changed for different jobs?

Over 50 years of drilling everything from IRON to NASA stuff, [you would be lucky to find iron now].
Iron is still the best for applications dealing with sulphuric acid, better than aerospace metals.

I can tell you at no charge.

Oh I am interested, but I think this thread would better serve the purpose and make for easier searching for those thursting for knowledge.



Thanks

My posts moved, ThankYou