Drivers side front sag??

[JeremiahAK907]

Soo it absolutely drives me nuts but the front drivers side of my m1008 sits about an inch or so lower than the passenger side. I'm wondering if it's a normal thing due to the 25 gallons of diesel being in that area or what? Anyone seen this or have any suggestions on fixing it. I looked at the spring pak I didn't see any cracks or anything out of the norm and the shacklels looks straight like the passenger side. Maybe they need to be re-arched? Any input welcome

 

[Tinstar]

Usually new ones will fix that.
Discussed many times here. The search feature is your friend.

 

[Drock]

Well a couple ideas come to mind. Perhaps someone replaced one spring and not the other? You could swap front springs to see if it changes. Also check the cross measurements of the frame to make sure it's not bent. Worn bushings and/or bushing housings. Mismatched shocks.

 

[JeremiahAK907]

I'm wondering if maybe me taking out and flexing it a little had something to do with it?? Hmmmm highly possible. Might need to do some frame measurements see if I tweaked something.

 

[porkysplace]

I'm wondering if maybe me taking out and flexing it a little had something to do with it?? Hmmmm highly possible. Might need to do some frame measurements see if I tweaked something.

What measure it , you can't measure it , you have to put on a frame machine ,( sarcasm ) just read this thread.
[h=1]best way to level 1986 m1009[/h]

 

[Drock]

What measure it , you can't measure it , you have to put on a frame machine ,( sarcasm ) just read this thread.
best way to level 1986 m1009

Well after thinking about it, reading this other thread, and recalling my time tinkering in a collision shop, I think I figured it out. Theses Blazers/Jimmys are basically a unibody mounted to a truck frame, This is the problem! Truck frames are designed to flex and twist, whereas unibody vehicles do not. On a truck the cab is separate from the bed so they can articulate. But the Blazers are 1 solid body. Essentially a truck cab with a small bed grafted on. Then just to add even more insult to the original design they added a heavy, removable hard top to the back. What's happening is the truck frame is flexing as it's meant to, and this hybrid body with no separation between the bed and cab is trying to stay stiff. I would bet good money if you loosened all the body mounts, the frame would level out and the body would show it's twist.

 

[JeremiahAK907]

Thanks for all the input! Is it that same unibody set up on the trucks? I have the m1008 which is the k30 truck one. And I do believe I found out my problem so I was under it this morning before heading to work and I was comparing driver side to passenger side the leaf springs shackles bushing all that jazz and finally made my way to the shocks. Driver side was of course compressed a lot more than the passenger side, so I took a little bottle jack put it between the frame and the axel tube and jacked it up a little bit at a time till she was level again. Maybe it's just that shock. But at the same time I know she shock doesn't hold too much weight by itself so I'm not 100% sure it would be the shock. ??

 

[Skinny]

Shocks hold zero weight, most likely a spring issue. Grab a dimension from the bumpstop to the axle tube on both sides and see if it's off.

I'm not sure about the whole unibody thing. The frame is what holds the vehicle straight. The body on a Blazer or Suburban holds relatively straight and the body mount compensates for movement. Of course an old floppy C channel frame has some serious flex when running it through it's paces. You typically will see door gaps change when flexing them up hard but the body itself is not holding the truck straight realistically. A pickup is another story, you have complete separation between cab and bed. The bed is also rigidly mounted for the most part to the frame so you will see much more flex between these two pieces.

 

[Drock]

I would check your frame cross measurements first!! If you found it was tweaked, and if it were me, I'd do something completely redneck yet effective. Like put a Hi-lift jack on the lift D-ring of the low side and jack the heck out of it. And / or drive it down a washboard dirt road fast. These frames are riveted together rather then welded, and the bodies are soft mounted with bushings all so the truck as a whole can flex. Thus it may only need to be "shocked" back into place. But again, I would check the cross measurements of the frame, and the long list of suspension parts that could be at fault first. *Edit* I did get off track on my earlier post in regards to truck vs blazer. But another idea came to mind sense we're talking about a pickup truck. With the truck parked on level ground, stand behind it and sight the top of the bed & tailgate with the cab to see if you've got any twist.

 

[JeremiahAK907]

If it stops effin raining by the time I'm off work I'm gonna go do some measurements I'm assuming it should be pretty straight forward on measuring points any pointers or where to start from? I'm really leaning towards the springs being a little wore out but I for sure wamma measure it out to be 100% and if it is the springs I'll just leave it until I get some new springs when I lift it here soon and do the shackle flip for the rear. So where should I start with the measuring tape?

 

[JeremiahAK907]

Don't tempt me with a good time I love that rednekish idea!!

 

[Drock]

I did a quick search and could'nt find 73-87 cross measurement specs. But I'm sure if you look a little harder then I did they're out there. Or you could call a frame shop and they could tell you "if they're willing". But it's pretty basic, just find 4 matching points (bolt heads or holes) on the frame rails and take a criss cross or X measurement from rail to rail to see if it's square. Do this at 3 or 4 points along the length of the truck. All this being said,if your springs and bushings are stock I'm betting that's the problem. None the less it can't hurt to make sure your not dumping money into a bent truck.

 

[Skinny]

I'm in the process of converting a C20 Suburban chassis to 4wd and the front crossmember where the brakelines go across had two rivets which loosened up and oblonged the holes. I would have never of caught it because it looked perfectly fine if I didn't pop the rivets out. Stuff happens...

 

[cucvrus]

I just ordered 4 new complete leaf springs for my current M1008 project. I ordered the 4 ply front springs it gives the old M1008'/M1028's a nice even/level stance. I have installed 3 complete sets of the leaf springs in the last year and I replaced all the shackles, U bolts , and mounting hardware. The cast steel rear axle mounts/saddles are the icing on the cake. I have a few of the powder-coated OEM ones but in the north east they are nothing but salt catchers. I did a few basic measurements and X measured the frame while it was on the saw horses and it seems OK. I never seen any issues with the truck other then the rusty 32 year old tired springs. Loaded or not these trucks all need new springs. Just sitting empty on the springs has taken it's toll on the load capacity. I had been using parts from take off springs but every year it seems I have had to replace more plies. So I agree 1 weak spring can make a vehicle lean. Good luck with your project. I have a long list of parts to pick up at Autozone next week so I can begin my reassembly. I will cover that in my Easter find M1008 rebuild thread. Have a great day. Consult professional help when needed such as frame and alignment issues. it could save you money and resolve a looming safety issue. If you don't know and are not sure please don't just guess. Have it checked professionally. It is worth the money and will save money and possibly lives.

 

[dependable]

Relating to this post and another on similar topic, it is possible to loosen up the rivets in a frame. Have done so myself on a few light duty trucks when taking them loaded over poorly maintained dirt road with large alternating holes, (too large to be called pot holes).

A restored '66 k-20 started flexing so bad on one such road that the cab floor seems opened up. That truck, while restored, likely had corrosion in the rivets, and uneven road loosened up the rivets.

Same sort of thing happened to my first 1008 to duel wheel dump conversion. The combination of a heavy load and a uneaven road (the kind that is so bad you have to drive slow), can ruin a frame in my opinion.

Had a k-10 that got off level & I drove it that way for 5 years with no consequence until it was parted out due to rust. Was a local driver only though, would have never taken it off the sand pile.

 

[rustystud]

Thanks for all the input! Is it that same unibody set up on the trucks? I have the m1008 which is the k30 truck one. And I do believe I found out my problem so I was under it this morning before heading to work and I was comparing driver side to passenger side the leaf springs shackles bushing all that jazz and finally made my way to the shocks. Driver side was of course compressed a lot more than the passenger side, so I took a little bottle jack put it between the frame and the axel tube and jacked it up a little bit at a time till she was level again. Maybe it's just that shock. But at the same time I know she shock doesn't hold too much weight by itself so I'm not 100% sure it would be the shock. ??

Your shock could be damaged. I've seen that many times. They do get bent and sometimes the pistons do get jammed up inside the tube. A quick way of checking is just remove the bottom shock bolts all around the truck and see how it sets. You also could just have bad springs or bushings or both. When was the last time your spring bushings were replaced ? Remember rubber components wear out just setting there. They usually only last 20 years max. If your truck is like most around here, it has never had the springs or bushing replaced since new. Trust me they are shot !! How much space do you have between the front axle bump stops and the axle ? It should be over 2" . Brand new springs and bushings will bring it up to almost 3" . If it's less then 2" then replace the springs and bushings. I went with Urethane bushings and love them ! I also went with "ORD" front and rear heavy duty shackle kits. Well worth the money. Remember to install new 'U'-bolts and studs.

 

[rustystud]

What measure it , you can't measure it , you have to put on a frame machine ,( sarcasm ) just read this thread.
best way to level 1986 m1009

Measuring it will not tell you that the springs are shot, but knowing that the frame is OK will let you go on and troubleshoot the real problem. But go ahead and measure the crap out of it and then tell us how you diagnosed all the problems out of this truck. Either that or stop whining about how others don't think your idea is such a good thing.

 

[Tinstar]

Your shock could be damaged. I've seen that many times. They do get bent and sometimes the pistons do get jammed up inside the tube. A quick way of checking is just remove the bottom shock bolts all around the truck and see how it sets. You also could just have bad springs or bushings or both. When was the last time your spring bushings were replaced ? Remember rubber components wear out just setting there. They usually only last 20 years max. If your truck is like most around here, it has never had the springs or bushing replaced since new. Trust me they are shot !! How much space do you have between the front axle bump stops and the axle ? It should be over 2" . Brand new springs and bushings will bring it up to almost 3" . If it's less then 2" then replace the springs and bushings. I went with Urethane bushings and love them ! I also went with "ORD" front and rear heavy duty shackle kits. Well worth the money. Remember to install new 'U'-bolts and studs.

Could you post the brand and part numbers that you went with on the bushings?

Would be nice to have a sticky of all the Urethane rubber replacement parts and numbers.

 

[porkysplace]

Measuring it will not tell you that the springs are shot, but knowing that the frame is OK will let you go on and troubleshoot the real problem. But go ahead and measure the crap out of it and then tell us how you diagnosed all the problems out of this truck. Either that or stop whining about how others don't think your idea is such a good thing.

You could just throw a ton of parts at like cucvrus suggested a few posts ago , your the one doing the whining any time someone doesn't do it your way . not every body needs a frame machine calibarated by NASa to find a 2 inch sag in a truck.

 

[Skinny]

I was thinking that a tape measure works for that much sag because they typically measure down to a sixteenth increment.

Works well on a flat surface too but I guess you can interpret that either way depending on if you believe in the Earth being flat or round...