Dualled M105A2 Project. Axle Narrowing?

[Gypsyman]

It looks like I may finally be getting a title for the '67 M105A2 that I purchased back in early March so it's time to start planning. If you look past the paint the trailer itself is virtually arrow straight and rust free. A very nice candidate for this project considering that the trailer and I were both built in the same year. =)

Having read every thread that I could find I've never found any discussion of narrowing the axle to stay within the 102" wide body legal limit. Calculating the width at 105" (including tire bulge) I will need to drop 3" to land on the 102" mark. To allow a small amount of leeway (should I be stopped and measured by the DOT) I'll be shooting for 101". This means that I will need to drop 4" overall.

Now the question on narrowing the axle. Option 1 is to remove 4" from the center of the axle which would also involve having to relocate the spring perches. Option 2 is to remove 4" from each end of the axle.

In my mind Option 1 would be the strongest. Option 2 would have a more factory original look and leave the spring perches and their factory welds unmolested.

Thoughts?

 

[glcaines]

It looks like I may finally be getting a title for the '67 M105A2 that I purchased back in early March so it's time to start planning. If you look past the paint the trailer itself is virtually arrow straight and rust free. A very nice candidate for this project considering that the trailer and I were both built in the same year. =)

Having read every thread that I could find I've never found any discussion of narrowing the axle to stay within the 102" wide body legal limit. Calculating the width at 105" (including tire bulge) I will need to drop 3" to land on the 102" mark. To allow a small amount of leeway (should I be stopped and measured by the DOT) I'll be shooting for 101". This means that I will need to drop 4" overall.
Now the question on narrowing the axle. Option 1 is to remove 4" from the center of the axle which would also involve having to relocate the spring perches. Option 2 is to remove 4" from each end of the axle.
In my mind Option 1 would be the strongest. Option 2 would have a more factory original look and leave the spring perches and their factory welds unmolested.
Thoughts?

Not sure why you'd want to dual out a 105 trailer, but if it was me I'd go for Option 2.

 

[Gypsyman]

Added stability and flotation when loaded, and better visibility in the mirrors. Plus, I like the way they look when the fenders are widened accordingly. Sample photos below.

What makes you lean towards Option 2?

 

[juanprado]

Maybe not the answer you seek or the right one but 3 inches is not a huge deal and can hardly be noticed. Especially if you mod the fenders & add conspicuity tape plus add mud flaps, no one will bother you.

I have run dually m105 and m107 trailers with stock fenders and not had any leo issues.

Just sounds like a ton of work and then have to worry about the welds/mods if you ever had a failure.

All the best with your quest.
Ymmv

 

[Gypsyman]

Unfortunately WADOT is nasty to deal with and they set up on the highway right down the road from my place all the time. I don't mind the work/cost to end up with what I want and make the trailer legal. I have a free spare axle so it's more time investment than cash. If it doesn't work it's no great loss.

If I go with narrowing from the center it would be more heavily sleeved than the example below. Something along the lines of an 18"-24" heavy wall insert. I see rear axles properly narrowed all the time in other hobbies. I believe that the strength can be built in.

 

[G744]

A cut in the middle and a stout sleeve is the way to go. Done it many times, both to narrow and to extend.

Old deuce or 5-ton axles are square tube, and are easier to mount in as they don't need a welded perch (just a locater hole in the tube and a bunch of bolts). I cut out the banjo with my horizontal bandsaw and welded in a section.

You might consider doing it with a 5-tonner, running single 12.00-20's on a 10-bolt wheel for the weight rating.

I did it on a beater M105 with extended sides to haul gravel. It hauls a couple yards without any problems.

 

[BKubu]

What about finding an M200A1 (already with duals) and working to retrofit an M105 body onto it? It might amount to less work. Just a thought.

 

[Gypsyman]

I looked for one for quite a while. Not much comes up around here. That's when I ran across the free M105 axle. I measured the M200A1 axle on my generator and it's narrower than I would like to go.