Dumb oil filter questions

[russojap]

What is the circular recessed(milled out?) area around where the canister tube goes in, it looks like there should be some kind of rubber gasket in there?



I'm not crazy about this setup, I had to keep vacuuming rust off the filter housing base. I know it probably shouldn't have been rusty to begin with, but it was, so I had to deal with it. Does the dirty oil come up the tube and this is clean oil we see in the pic, or the other way around?
I have to figure out how to stop the rust on these.Thanks


I had to knock and pry the canisters loose, but this is also the first time I've changed the oil in the eight years I've had it.

Also, I read somewhere that the engine should not be started , but needs to be allowed to crank only for several seconds to allow oil to reach the turbo., That doesn't make any sense to me because I don't see what would be the difference between the truck not running for some time , and draining the oil. Is there a special starting procedure after an oil change?

 

[Elijah95]

First oil change in 8 years? Am I reading this correctly??

 

[Katahdin]

The engine should be cranked over, before each start, to check for hydro-static lock -- that is fuel or water in a cylinder from a leaking injector or head gasket. If one of the cylinders is filled with fluid while the others fire, you'll destroy the engine.

If you get a "thud" noise while cranking the engine over [without fuel], you can investigate the problem and save the engine from destruction.

 

[pjwest03]

The first big upgrade for a deuce should be spin on oil filter adapters. That way you can use filters with the anti drain-back valve. They are available from several members here. I use westfolk's setup.

And yes, there are gaskets for those grooves. There's a forum sticky with the deuce parts list of filters and sources. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?82427-Deuce-Parts-Quick-Reference-Spreadsheet

 

[russojap]

First oil change in 8 years? Am I reading this correctly??

I'm sorry to say yes, but I probably didn't drive the truck over 100 miles during that time, and it hasn't been started in at least three years or longer, maybe five.

So it's kind of like I have discovered a new truck in the yard. I wasn't viewing the truck correctly when I first got it, but now I'm ready to get to work on it. I was discouraged by a leaking axle seal and getting the pre load on the bearings right, so I stopped messing with it. See below.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?181092-Start-up-after-long-time-advice

 

[russojap]

The first big upgrade for a deuce should be spin on oil filter adapters. That way you can use filters with the anti drain-back valve. They are available from several members here. I use westfolk's setup.

And yes, there are gaskets for those grooves. There's a forum sticky with the deuce parts list of filters and sources. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?82427-Deuce-Parts-Quick-Reference-Spreadsheet

Thank you, I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. I have the Napa filters, but the only thing that came with them are the gaskets for the canisters. I'm talking about this part of the base.

 

[frank8003]

maybe time to read this
see page 8
View attachment PS MultifuelOperator.pdf

 

[russojap]

maybe time to read this
see page 8
View attachment 741895

Fantastic, thank you. I didn't realize I was supposed to crank it EVERY time.

Floridianson told me to check for hydraulic lock before starting it, but I assumed it was just for that one time, because the truck had not been started in a long time.

 

[russojap]

Why doesn't a typical Diesel or gas engine need to be cranked without fuel first?

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

Why doesn't a typical Diesel or gas engine need to be cranked without fuel first?

I believe your question is very valid, and this practice is a carry-over from prior military training and manuals... in the military, when you got into a truck you hadn't driven for awhile (or ever) there was no way to be sure that private Snuffy didn't leave the master switch on, running the in tank pump for lord knows how long, thus possibly filling a cylinder full of fuel, or water somehow finding it's way into a cylinder through a prior person's action or inaction. So, it made very good sense to always check for hydrostatic lock when someone else could've been in it since the last/first time you were. And coolant finding it's way in quantity into a cylinder via a head gasket leak in a static engine? as you stated, you'd think that'd be just as big a concern for any engine, yet we don't typically dry-crank our passenger cars to check for hydro-lock. I'm the only one who drives my truck now... the cab is key locked, the fuel pump circuit is key-locked, the stack is capped, and the fuel is mechanically blocked every time I shut it down. Do I put my starter, switch, and batts through an additional wear cycle to check for hydro-lock every time I get in? **** no. Would I if I had an as-issued truck without all the locks, and that sat idle for long periods? yes I would.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Russojap, that picture is worthy for a military truck calendar!

I'm sorry to say yes, but I probably didn't drive the truck over 100 miles during that time, and it hasn't been started in at least three years or longer, maybe five.
View attachment 741896
So it's kind of like I have discovered a new truck in the yard. I wasn't viewing the truck correctly when I first got it, but now I'm ready to get to work on it. I was discouraged by a leaking axle seal and getting the pre load on the bearings right, so I stopped messing with it. See below.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?181092-Start-up-after-long-time-advice

 

[fpchief]

Thank you, I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. I have the Napa filters, but the only thing that came with them are the gaskets for the canisters. I'm talking about this part of the base.
View attachment 741894

Subscribed, waiting to hear about that gasket also. Maybe i have been missing that one for years....

 

[clinto]

What is the circular recessed(milled out?) area around where the canister tube goes in, it looks like there should be some kind of rubber gasket in there?
View attachment 741877

A gasket does go there, but that gasket is pre-installed on your new filters at the factory. So once you install the filter, you've done what you're supposed to. See:

I'm not crazy about this setup, I had to keep vacuuming rust off the filter housing base. I know it probably shouldn't have been rusty to begin with, but it was, so I had to deal with it. Does the dirty oil come up the tube and this is clean oil we see in the pic, or the other way around?
I have to figure out how to stop the rust on these.Thanks

Before changing the oil, shoot some degreaser all around the cans and then stand on the fender and pressure wash the s......tuffing out of the canister area. Be smart, if the engine is hot, do this while it's running.

Stop the rust: Buy some Ospho at your local auto body paint supplier and spray it on any rusty metal. It's a rust converter and will stop the corrosion.

I had to knock and pry the canisters loose, but this is also the first time I've changed the oil in the eight years I've had it.

View attachment 741885

They are a tight fit. Normal. Make sure when you install the cans, use new base gaskets and torque the cans to 60-65 ft. lbs. and hold the can so it can't spin while tightening the bolt.

Also, I read somewhere that the engine should not be started , but needs to be allowed to crank only for several seconds to allow oil to reach the turbo., That doesn't make any sense to me because I don't see what would be the difference between the truck not running for some time , and draining the oil. Is there a special starting procedure after an oil change?

Someone else described this above, the issue of someone leaving the electric pump on and it possibly pushing the fuel into a cylinder. I don't bother to do this, but it's your truck so I'm not responsible for you blowing it up if you don't follow the TM/PS Magazine suggestions. This is in reference to the risk of an engine having liquid trapped in a cylinder and hydraulic locking.

In reference to cranking the engine for a while after an oil change with the engine stop cable out so it will build oil pressure and get lube to the turbo, I don't really have an opinion on that. I guess as long as you don't overheat the starter or batteries it won't hurt. But these things dry start every. single. time. you start them because they don't have anti-drainback checkvalves in the system because they are specifically designed to drain all the oil back into the pan so the arctic system would be able to heat all the oil, if the truck was so equipped and fighting in Siberia.