E-brake light stays on

[Milcommoguy]

"now she seems to be displaying as should with e-brake light on when plugged in and off when unplugged"

IF that's the case... FAILED proportional brake valve switch OR brake system fail.

Check fluid in reservoir. Low fluid could be a clue (front or rear sections) Find the little button in the front of valve and push it in. How's the brake pads / rotor wear? If an old nasty truck / master cylinder / dirty fluid... drain, flush, dot 5, bleed, check again.

https://www.logsa.army.mil/psmag/archives/PS2009/678/678-12.pdf



Or easier yet... pull out the switch and reconnect it. Push the little plunger on the end watching that brake warning LED follows your pushing. GOOD.
Next, be easy and in the hole where switch mounts see if you can slide "switch detent shuttle" to the center above. Use small tool or center it up with button at the front. Put back together. If it doesn't stay off after a couple of hard panic stops... bigger problem brakes are broke or valve cruded up OR ???

Trying to guide... but could be going in circles, CAMO

 

[Wire Fox]

"now she seems to be displaying as should with e-brake light on when plugged in and off when unplugged"

IF that's the case... FAILED proportional brake valve switch OR brake system fail.

Check fluid in reservoir. Low fluid could be a clue (front or rear sections) Find the little button in the front of valve and push it in. How's the brake pads / rotor wear? If an old nasty truck / master cylinder / dirty fluid... drain, flush, dot 5, bleed, check again.

https://www.logsa.army.mil/psmag/archives/PS2009/678/678-12.pdf

View attachment 786939

Or easier yet... pull out the switch and reconnect it. Push the little plunger on the end watching that brake warning LED follows your pushing. GOOD.
Next, be easy and in the hole where switch mounts see if you can slide "switch detent shuttle" to the center above. Use small tool or center it up with button at the front. Put back together. If it doesn't stay off after a couple of hard panic stops... bigger problem brakes are broke or valve cruded up OR ???

Trying to guide... but could be going in circles, CAMO

I know I shouldn't be laughing, but I'm so tickled that all of us assumed that because the light was on, the electrical system was defective. The reality is...it was perfectly functioning to tell us that the brakes weren't working correctly. Sometimes we have to laugh at our own assumptions...

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[Milcommoguy]

Not so sure to LOL or cry. Owner stated it's been always on. Owner, operator, driver should have understood brake light... next level maintenance.

First testing post stated it stayed on when both switches removed from circuit. Then came, brake light pedal switch, the grounded out leads or in my case the "wink to test" circuit in the PCB. What a mess. My head is spinning.

Give it a couple days and now remove the proportional valve connector and all is good.

ANY CHANCE ? Was the parking brake handle pulled (engauged) when stating that the brake led stayed on... like it supposed too, when messing with the valve switch ??? (parallel circuit to LED. "OR" logic)

It's fun and a mind game to work with some of these issue. Hands off brain busters, lack of clear test actions and any other loose ends makes troubleshooting by remote control more than challenging.

There shouldn't be any magic, voodoo, secret government technology going on here. Maybe gremlins. YEA !! that's it.

Pesky gremlins and a grounding kit will fix it.

HOUSTON... beep. WE HAVE A BRAKE LIGHT ON ....beep

Never assume. See it, measure it, check it in person, CAMO