Economical turn signal flasher repair option

[TOBASH]

Nartron self canceling.

 

[jimm1009]

I had a steady on indicator light on the switch but no actual flasher with the military unit.
I replaced it with an EG23. I had turn signals for a few days and then nothing.
I figured that I smoked my recently installed EG23 and that I still had issues somewhere in the wiring.
I found an intermittently grounded wire and removed it from the circuit by installing a new wire clear
up to the turn signal switch.
Put a new EG23 in and it glowed in the dark but worked for a while. Well it quit so I replaced the some of the wring
and installed an EG22. It worked for a while and then I get a steady on indicator light with no actual flashing.
I have replaced the turn signal switch and also the main light switch with new military units.
No Joy.
jimm1009

 

[jimm1009]

Thoughts?

Suggestions?

 

[Jakelc15]

I used a Grote 44010. I chose it because it has a 12 amp rating so I wouldn't overload it when pulling different trailers. Been going strong since 2015

I'd check your wiring for shorts or maybe the flasher in and out wires are swapped.

Come on by and I'll take a look at it for ya!

 

[Jakelc15]

That wiring diagram is a m809 but the wire numbers should be the same on the flasher and signal switch

 

[jimm1009]

I did swap the wires after checking them from the turnsignal switch to the flasher.
Plugged in my NOS military flasher that I purchased back in 2009.
Blue smoke in 20 seconds.
I am running all new turn signal wiring and installing at least two new lights.
Will experiment with an EG23 when I have it right.
Jim

 

[Jakelc15]

Any luck with it?

 

[papakb]

The full HMMWV wiring harness is in the back of TM 9 2320-280-20-3. I had mine double sized and laminated at a local copy shop so that I could trace on it with a grease pencil as I was troubleshooting electrical problems.

 

[jimm1009]

I purchased another EG23 from NAPA and am running new wiring to all 4 corners for turn signals clear from the switch.
There is an intermittent short somewhere as it will work fr a while and then role onto it's back and go Tango Uniform.
I am going to smokecheck all the new wiring twice before I plug in another flasher.
I'm not quite there yet will update as soon as I can.

 

[CommoChief]

That's exactly what I did here. The Nartron flashers are pretty easy to gut, I haven't tried any of the other models out there. I've ordered a couple of the connectors that mate with the wiring harness connector that can be put directly onto the flashers wires then all you would need would be to make a mounting bracket for the flasher. I'll do another post with that information when I finish it.

Kurt

Kurt...any idea where, short of tearing apart an old
box, to get the 3 prong connector that is on the
military style flasher box?

thanks in advance....Bill

 

[cattlerepairman]

Not sure why yours would be 3 prong but the 7 pin Male plug that the flasher box has (and yes, you do not use all of the contacts) is made by Amphenol and has the manufacturer number of MS3102E16-10P.

I ordered mine from Mouser Electronics but I am sure there are other sources.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[CommoChief]

Not sure why yours would be 3 prong but the 7 pin Male plug that the flasher box has (and yes, you do not use all of the contacts) is made by Amphenol and has the manufacturer number of MS3102E16-10P.

I ordered mine from Mouser Electronics but I am sure there are other sources.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

the deuce connector to the flasher box is 3 pin. The
flasher box has 3 pins as well. Thanks for the info.

 

[papakb]

Both Mouser and Digikey can prrovide that connector.

 

[Bulldogger]

For HMMWV owners: I installed a civvy 24V solid state flasher to replace my military incandescent version. I didn’t want to buy the $50 military version so I adapted a Nartron 11613631 from theBay. I cut the plug off the old flasher and soldered the wires of the Nartron onto it so I could keep the military harness intact.
It works!!!
For those interested, here is the wiring:
57K to Nartron Black wire
325A to Nartron White wire
325B to Nartron Red wire

Bulldogger

 

[Ajax MD]

@papakb In your very first post on this thread, how did you "gut" the military flasher? You dug that rubber square of potting out? How'd you break it free?
I've ordered the Grote flasher and I'd like to replicate what you've done.

 

[SCSG-G4]

@papakb In your very first post on this thread, how did you "gut" the military flasher? You dug that rubber square of potting out? How'd you break it free?
I've ordered the Grote flasher and I'd like to replicate what you've done.

Heat breaks it free, or at least pliable. Problem with the military ones is that the potting material was poured directly onto the PCB and it's expansion and contraction breaks components off electrically. That is what Clinto found when he opened one up several years ago. Resolder the connections, put a spacer board to protect the PCB and remelt the goo back in is just about a permanent fix.

 

[Ajax MD]

Heat breaks it free, or at least pliable. Problem with the military ones is that the potting material was poured directly onto the PCB and it's expansion and contraction breaks components off electrically. That is what Clinto found when he opened one up several years ago. Resolder the connections, put a spacer board to protect the PCB and remelt the goo back in is just about a permanent fix.

You're saying that the reason for frequent failure of this part is because the potting breaks the connections and that there's usually nothing wrong with the flasher itself? Well that's very interesting.

I have two faulty units. They failed in different ways. I have a really wicked heat gun so I'll blast one of them and try to dig the potting out.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Maybe take pics of your quest, @Ajax MD

 

[Ajax MD]

Maybe take pics of your quest, @Ajax MD

Well, the OP already did but I guess I can too.

 

[Ajax MD]

Just an update on my own personal turn signal mod-

One of my failed units is less than a year old. Using my DeWalt heat gun set at 700F, I have softened and removed the top layer of black potting goo...only to discover that underneath that, is a very hard layer of transparent potting goo. It doesn't seem to soften much, it just gets to a point where you can dig chunks of it out with an awl or screwdriver. You can see the failed circuit board and the 3 wires through the goo.

This is different than the OP's module in the photos at the beginning of the thread.

I popped the 3 wires off of the circuit board. All I need to do is solder them to the wires of the Grote flasher and mount the Grote somehow. I think I'm going to dig more of the transparent potting goo out and see if I can completely remove the old board and bury the Grote inside the aluminum body.

It's easy to see how these modules fail because the transparent potting material has absolutely zero flex. It probably snaps components right off the circuit board during extreme temperature shifts.