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EESS Glow Plug Bypass

Carrera911

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Working on a truck for a customer, installed the "best" EESS, the KDS "smart start" a year ago and it's already frying glow plugs. Rather than another overpriced, prone to failure box I decided to go with a more permanent solution. Installed a high quality 24 volt 200 amp solenoid to power the plugs and mounted it in the box. This way it requires no modifications to the truck's wiring. The push button switch is connected with a twist lock marine connector, keeping the factory modularity of the box. The glow plug wait light is wired to the output leg of the solenoid, this way you see exactly when the plugs are getting power and you will know if the solenoid somehow sticks on. Another benefit is no more pointless afterglow BS. All connections are soldered and heatshrunk.
Message me if anyone would like this done to their box.


IMG_7730.jpgIMG_7727.jpgIMG_7724.jpg
 

Mogman

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Interesting, that relay controls all the run power not just the glow plugs, the glow plugs are actually controlled by the SCRs on the circuit board IIRC
Otherwise you would hear that relay banging away during the after glow portion of the start run sequence.
Unless the Smart start box is different than all the rest and does not have a relay and you added that one.
The first thing I added to the Detroit is a dash light connected to one of the glow plugs, every HMMWV that uses an EESS should have one so you can instantly see if the glow plugs stay on after the wait light goes out, normally you just see the flashing of the afterglow for a couple minuets
 
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papakb

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Mogman is right, the glow plugs are powered thru MOSFETs on the circuit board.

I wonder if that solenoid is the reverse battery polarity protection? I know there was one in the earlier boxes.
 

Carrera911

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Location
Cumming, Georgia
Interesting, that relay controls all the run power not just the glow plugs, the glow plugs are actually controlled by the SCRs on the circuit board IIRC
Otherwise you would hear that relay banging away during the after glow portion of the start run sequence.
Unless the Smart start box is different than all the rest and does not have a relay and you added that one.
Correct, the older boxes use a large continuous duty solenoid to control run power. These newer boxes use several automotive type relays for that. Yes the circuit board powers the glow plugs. I’m adding the large 24 volt industrial solenoid to replace and eliminate the glow plug aspect of the board and give you full manual control of the plugs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mogman

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Correct, the older boxes use a large continuous duty solenoid to control run power. These newer boxes use several automotive type relays for that. Yes the circuit board powers the glow plugs. I’m adding the large 24 volt industrial solenoid to replace and eliminate the glow plug aspect of the board and give you full manual control of the plugs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I stand corrected!
 

papakb

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If that solenoid is one that you added you could add a couple protective diodes to allow either the MOSFETS or the new switch to control the glow plugs giving you a manual backup system.
 
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Carrera911

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Cumming, Georgia
If that solenoid is one that you added you could add a couple protective diodes to allow either the MOSFETS or the new switch to control the glow plugs giving you a manual backup system.
This would work for boxes that still function, but would allow the box to cook the plugs if it fails. Though the way I'm wiring the wait light, you would see when the box is actually sending power to the plugs. I'm primarily doing this as a way to repair broken boxes.
 

86humv

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All the boxes have the big silver relay ..Even the Nartron smart start....except only one late box the KDS smart start uses some little black relays.
 

TOBASH

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OK guys. I promise that this time I will make and post the video on how I made my bypass. Gimme 5 days.

I searched my old posts for my schematics on what to do. Look for post 51. Special shout out to CamO for his help and support.


I will also set up a company that will do it for you [I'm considering prices $450 no trade in, or $300 trade in for models that are not solid state, and $400 with trade in for solid state models (prices subject to change)].

LEGAL DISCLAIMER:

This is an aftermarket workaround on a high amperage circuit, meaning "This is for teaching purposes only... No guarantees that you won't burn your rig up or fry the electrics."
 
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