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Electric fuel Pump install?

top_prop

Member
243
8
18
Location
Suffolk, VA
I've been running two airtex pumps for about three years now. One died after two years.... But I did let it run dry once trying to pull fuel from the tank to prime it... The other survived pumping rust from the fuel tank through a prefilter and the spin on until the IP died... Its still running strong.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
MarcusOReallyus - from all the posts i have read through i have seen opinions going both ways. What in particular has been problematic?
Just that they don't last like the better brands. From all I've read on various forums (various vehicle makes), it's a crap shoot. A year or two, or less, seems to be common.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
So, I have to ask, but what is the recommend, and most reliable pumps out there?
 

rsh4364

Active member
1,372
15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
So far after 5k miles I like the airtex E8153,I used fram G3 prefilter ,power to fuseblock ,switched 12V.ground to front batt. neg. side,also added 10A inline fuse on pwr. side.For 31.79 per pump at Rock auto well worth it.
 

southdave

Active member
1,986
6
38
Location
ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
Have mine in for awhile I think the key to longevity is mount it where it will always have a head fuel on suction side of pump.. pumps are design to push not pull... I have seen hot rod dudes burn up 400 dollar pumps in two days, when they fail provide proper head pressure.
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,912
2,724
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
CUCV electric fuel pump

I got my CUCV running after it rested for over 500 days. A part of my success is because of this thread so I'm bumping it. I found it after searching "cucv electric fuel pump " on my favorite search engine.
After sitting for so long I decided to go through the system, replace the dead electric fuel pump, prime and fire.

The data on the first page of this thread helped me find an electric fuel pump supplier that has a lot of love for green iron.

m1010 dust boot 006.jpg

To trouble shoot the M1010 I laid underneath it, dropped dirt in my eyes and spilled diesel. Wear safety glasses and have a bucket with you if you try to replace or add an electric fuel pump.

The previous owner PO did most of the previous work on this so I just replaced things, followed the TM to the point where it still wouldn't start, then called a mechanic. I appreciate a good mechanic. He saw the picture of the vice grips on the fuel line and was real glad he came over...so was I.

m1010 dust boot 008.jpgm1010 dust boot 005.jpgm1010 dust boot 003.jpgm1010 dust boot 002.jpg

Keeping juice in the batteries and having enough patience to keep bleeding, charging, bleeding, charging finally paid off. 10 minutes after the real mechanic arrived the 6.2 barked. I had it close, he got it finished.

Grabbed a few pics while the 1010 had me on my back, beating me. After sitting for so long we'll need to polish the transfer case again.

m1010 dust boot 012.jpgm1010 dust boot 011.jpgm1010 dust boot 010.jpgm1010 dust boot 009.jpg
 

llong66

New member
453
2
0
Location
kokomo, In
Hello everyone!
When I did my electric pump install, I used an OEM replacement pump from a '93 diesel van/truck placing a pre-filter between the tank and the new pump. I have an M1008 and the place right behind the cab, where the rubber lines from the tank meet the lines to the motor, I had to remove a small amount of the steel line to get the assembly to fit.( they do make small tubing cutters for close in work like that) The factory skid plate fit right back in place.
I would say at the very least remove, the old mechanical push rod, as mentioned, flexing the pump diaphragm without fuel to lube it WII eventually cause problems.
Another "short cut" I did was follow the front steel line forward, on my M1008. right below the fire wall on the frame is a brass block, it had the two used ports, one from the tank, the one to the original pump. it has a capped off 3rd outlet on the top side. I completely removed the old line to the original pump at the front of the motor, put the plug from the brass block in it and ran a new piece of steel line right up the fire wall to the filter intake, this keeps you from running to the front of the motor, up, then back.
Just a suggestion you might want to look into.
God luck!
Greg
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I think if you are going electric that a primary and secondary filter setup is key to keeping the pump surviving along with proper placement. I agree, it needs to be near the tank and closer to the bottom of the tank like being tucked in the frame rail and not up high.

I personally would install a primary head, the pump, and then the secondary head out back to feed the engine supply line. This keeps any filter changing mess out of the engine bay. It is important to not push water contaminated fuel into a pump which emulsifies it before going into the first or final stage of filtration. You want to pull fuel through the first filter as to keep contaminates as undisturbed as possible.
 
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