Electric Fuel pump problems!

[Jmeggz89]

Hi, I just installed the Advanced auto Airtech E3158 electric fuel pump into my CUCV and am now having some issues. It putts outta the exhaust on the passenger side only randomly. I assume it is a misfire. I installed the pump inline right behind the the passenger side seat underneath the truck. I connected it to the original line coming from the tank and then ran new 3/8 fuel line up to the injection pump fuel hose. My stock filter housing got messed up so I have an inline clear fuel filter between the new fuel line and the fuel hose going to the injector pump. I am getting at least 10psi out of the pump after the filter but don't know how much bc my pressure tester only goes up to 10psi.

 

[JGBallew]

Hi, I just installed the Advanced auto Airtech E3158 electric fuel pump into my CUCV and am now having some issues. It putts outta the exhaust on the passenger side only randomly. I assume it is a misfire. I installed the pump inline right behind the the passenger side seat underneath the truck. I connected it to the original line coming from the tank and then ran new 3/8 fuel line up to the injection pump fuel hose. My stock filter housing got messed up so I have an inline clear fuel filter between the new fuel line and the fuel hose going to the injector pump. I am getting at least 10psi out of the pump after the filter but don't know how much bc my pressure tester only goes up to 10psi.

Subdued irregular "puffing" or "putting" out the exhaust at idle is usually indicative of a sticking valve(s).

 

[Barrman]

It also can be an indication that the injection pump is starting to die since the IP controls all fuel and timing for the engine. Mine had a very random putt putt pattern at idle before I swapped IP's.

 

[JGBallew]

It also can be an indication that the injection pump is starting to die since the IP controls all fuel and timing for the engine. Mine had a very random putt putt pattern at idle before I swapped IP's.

Could be, I'd still lean toward a valve that's getting sticky first, since it's an easier fix. sometimes a stout dousing with MMO in the oil clears it up

Once you've proven the valves arent sticking, then you're sure it's the IP.

If you mount a new IP and it's still doing it, is it the valves or did you get a bum IP?

 

[Jmeggz89]

Yeah not leaning toward Ip bc if ip was the issue the putt would be out of both exhaust ports not just the passenger side exhaust. Will defiantly try MMO but also might be head-gasket noticed small air bubbles today in radiator while looking for issues. They were like bubbles you would see in a soda and not a lot. Could that be due to a leak in the system bc my thermostat housing leaks a little as well as my mechanical coolant temp gauge. What is MMO? I was thinking of using that zmax stuff would that work? it goes in the oil and gas and supposedly works good.

 

[JGBallew]

Yeah not leaning toward Ip bc if ip was the issue the putt would be out of both exhaust ports not just the passenger side exhaust. Will defiantly try MMO but also might be head-gasket noticed small air bubbles today in radiator while looking for issues. They were like bubbles you would see in a soda and not a lot. Could that be due to a leak in the system bc my thermostat housing leaks a little as well as my mechanical coolant temp gauge. What is MMO? I was thinking of using that zmax stuff would that work? it goes in the oil and gas and supposedly works good.

Marvel Mystery Oil. use a fairly stout dose, I've used a 1/5 to 1/6 by volume dose for problem engines.

Check the oil frequently, and be ready to change the oil at half the normal interval.

Additives like Zmax, etc are more for the bearing and reciprocating areas, and contain ingredients like M2So, or Zinc. You just want a penetrative lubricant that will help reduce the gum, etc that's causing the valve to stick.

Run a pressure test on the cooling system, if you have a head gasket leak, forget adding anything, and do the top cylinder job.

 

[Jmeggz89]

Yeah thought about that but i already have two small leaks at the thermostat housing and the temp sensor near the driver side glow plugs so wouldn't that effect the test? Also I don't have the typical milky coolant or brown oil that I would expect to see from you average head gasket blow out. I'm starting to think about doing a compression test and then if all is good pop testing the injectors on the passenger side bank.

 

[scottladdy]

Yeah thought about that but i already have two small leaks at the thermostat housing and the temp sensor near the driver side glow plugs so wouldn't that effect the test? Also I don't have the typical milky coolant or brown oil that I would expect to see from you average head gasket blow out. I'm starting to think about doing a compression test and then if all is good pop testing the injectors on the passenger side bank.

Any leak in the cooling system that isn't repaired can affect the pressure test of the cooling system. But, a pressure test can indicate other possible areas of leakage. I recommend repairing both leaks ASAP. Use a wire brush to clean the thermostat neck, especially where the upper rad hose connects and on the gasket surface. I run mine against a wire wheel attached to my bench grinder. Comes out nice and shiny. You also need to use a stiff brush on the gasket surface of the crossover. Get that nice and clean as well. Stuff a rag into the crossover to keep junk out, but don't forget to remove it before closing things up. Use a good quality gasket (FelPro #35271) and apply a gasket dressing to both sides sparingly (I use permatex water pump & thermostat housing RTV silicone with good results). Might as well replace the thermostat while you have it open. If you've never removed the neck before, be ready to deal with a stuck bolt or two, especially the lower bolt. Worst case you will need to repair the threads in the crossover with a helicoil, M10 - 1.5 x 35 is the bolt size, but a 40 mm will work just fine (ask me how I know ). Anti-sieze is your friend on reassembly.

Since the clamps on these hoses are pretty old, and the engine side upper hose clamp serves a dual purpose of keeping the drivers side alt belt from destroying the upper hose, I put a second #32 clamp on the inboard side of the hose. There is plenty of room for it. Just a little insurance.

+1 on the compression test. This can indicate overall health of the engine. Understand you can't squirt a little oil into the cylinder on these engines to determine if a compression issue is rings or not like you can a gasoline engine. Check the TM's for the procedure.

Milkshake in the oil or coolant would only occur if the leak allowed either/both to contact. You may be diagnosing a compression issue only, where cylinder pressure is back feeding through a tiny passage in the head gasket into a coolant passage. Check this out: Headgasket Check - YouTube. The kit mentioned is available at A-Zone.

+1 on the injector pop test. The fuel injection system timing on these trucks is governed by the IP in conjunction with the injectors. The injector must pop at the correct pressure in order for the fuel to be injected at the proper time. Check this out: http://www.thedieselfiles.com/Ford/Stanadyne%20DB2%20Operation%20and%20Instruction%20Manual%2099009.pdf

 

[JGBallew]

There's another kind of radiator pressure test. Pressurize the system, if it leaks note rate of leak.
Start the engine, and note the difference, and any sudden or repeated rises.