Electric Gremlins (No Power)

[Russm]

I am attempting to return my m1009 to stock wiring (for the most part), with regards to the GP and starting wiring. I am having some issues.

What I had and what I've done so far:

PO put a 6.5 IP in. It recently died. Got a rebuilt 6.2 IP from Badger Diesel. The 6.5 IP was drawing power from the 24v bus through a switch mounted in the dash. (The engine would stay running with the key off until this switch was flipped to off)

There was no glow plug card at all, and most of the wiring leading to the GP card was cut. I have reconnected all the like wires together. New GP card from hillbilly wizard is installed.

PO had the glow plugs activated through a push button wired as follows:
12v bus --> GP relay --> Momentary push button --> (grounded on starter relay)
The light blue and pink wires from the GP card were not connected to anything and just hanging out under the GP relay.

Looks like PO replaced a fusible link from the 12v bus with a fuse holder. It had a melted 30A fuse in it. Replaced that.

Passenger Alt was having issues, I rebuilt it according to the instructions in the stickies.

Now the issue:

I had power with the key in the run and start positions before I pulled the GP push button and 6.5 IP wiring.
Now I don't have power with the key in run or start.

Headlights, turn signals, brakes, horn all work.
Replaced the ignition switch (the lower one the push rod on the steering column connects to). Read this can go bad. Did not solve anything.

Jumping the starter relay with a beefy wire engages the starter.

I have not finished tracing all the wires yet, but I'm hoping I've missed something that's obvious to someone else.


I am a getting a bit lost in all the wiring diagrams. Can anyone show me where the 12v is supposed to come from when you turn the key to Run?


I also have some mystery plugs in the engine bay. They may or may not have anything to do with the issue.

3 plugs with multiple wires on each IVO the fuel filter. They all come out of the same harness that runs behind the engine. It's been changed to spin-on. One is the water in fuel light, the other 2 seem to be too short to reach the old filter housing, some help would be appreciated in identifying them.

A 4th mystery plug is underneath the master cylinder. A single wire plug with a blue/red wire. No idea what this could be.

I am fairly certain I have the GP relay wired up correctly (stock). Can anyone verify?

I'm ready for the @ss chewing

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[Skinny]

Basically look at everything that has been cut and spliced into. Remove it, reconnect wires to where they were from the factory. Go from there.

If it's cut up really badly I'm sure you can get a harness form someone. I've got a used one laying around for an M1010. There are plenty of rust buckets out there with good harnesses.

You are doing the right thing in going back to stock. Not saying that modifications are bad but doing stupid stuff like glow plug buttons when the factory system works fine leads to where you are at. Then multiply times X number of work arounds and you have a truck that only runs if you oress a button, hop one foot, and on nights with a full moon.

Seriously, I doubt anyone capable of this level of hackery actually cut something out and fully removed the circuit from the truck. Usually it's a wire cut, blue dollar store wire butt splice, to some crap speaker wire or or whatever they had laying around. For the real cheapos substitute blue butt splice for wire nut.

Just undo what they did and I bet a lot of stuff will start working again. Or at least get you to a point of troubleshooting.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

You are doing the right thing in going back to stock. Not saying that modifications are bad but doing stupid stuff like glow plug buttons when the factory system works fine leads to where you are at. Then multiply times X number of work arounds and you have a truck that only runs if you oress a button, hop one foot, and on nights with a full moon.

You forgot about holding the doohickey at right angles to the thingamajig while the gloppensticker is engaged!


But other than that, agreed!

Russm, first thing, check your fuses and your fusible links. There's a bunch of them.

Your GP relay switch is wired correctly, as far as function is concerned. I wouldn't mess with that until you get the power situation cleared up.

 

[royalflush55]

I would check the fusible links connected to the 12 volt diamond on the firewall.
I had a similar issue once losing power to the switch and it was one of these fusible links. M1031 was running and died. It fried one of these fusible links.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I would check the fusible links connected to the 12 volt diamond on the firewall.

There are a few more to check, as well.

 

[Russm]

Holy crap well that nightmare is over.
PO replaced a fusible link with this fuse holder. Fuse inside was so melted I couldn't even tell what amperage it was. Fuse holder itself was melted too. No continuity.
Guesstimating 15A. We'll see if the link melts

This magnetic lead tester was awesome. Stick it on the underside of the hood and no problem reaching anything and the wires are out of your way

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[royalflush55]

Which fusible link was it?

 

[Russm]

Not my picture, I don't want to take mine apart again, but...

There's a large (larger than the other ones) spade connector right behind the bolt in this picture.
The wire that connected this to the 12v source on the firewall was bad.

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