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Electric M37

Johnbyrdgates

Johnbyrdgates

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So, I’ll not get the body work finished in time for our 4th of July parade, sadly. The outer wheel arches in the back are in bad shape where they bolt to the bed (also rusted through) wheel wells. Since I’m doing it myself and I’m a slow old duffer it’ll be a couple more weeks. I might take it down off the blocks and drive it around the yard though.
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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Johnbyrdgates said:
So, I’ll not get the body work finished in time for our 4th of July parade, sadly. The outer wheel arches in the back are in bad shape where they bolt to the bed (also rusted through) wheel wells. Since I’m doing it myself and I’m a slow old duffer it’ll be a couple more weeks. I might take it down off the blocks and drive it around the yard though.
Click to expand...
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Sometimes a spin around the yard in the project truck just needs to happen. Like a reward for working on it.

:cool:
 
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G8trwood

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Very well done. My nephew recently sent me this thread. After 25 years, we are refreshing the old carryall that has been bouncing around the property. Nephew is the projected heir in a few years. The old girl was a bit of a hack job when we got her and the motor is now shot. He likes the EV project, but I don’t know, a lot of new knowledge needed. Very thought provoking.
 
Johnbyrdgates

Johnbyrdgates

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Gr8wood,
It is currently more expensive to convert to electric than rebuild your internal combustion engine. If I were a young person, though, I wouldn’t really want a gas guzzling, unrefined and hence smelly, ICE. If the old carryall is paid for and needs its engine replaced, I think I’d consider electric drive. There’s plenty of room for batteries in that machine, especially after you remove all the ICE stuff.
Hopefully the cost of used Tesla batteries will come down as supply increases, but it sure hasn’t yet. You could save a ton of money using lead acid batteries but you’ll be giving up space and carrying capacity.
John
 
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G8trwood

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Thanks for the reply. No doubt the conversion is way, way more expensive. Seems like there is a lot more motor options out there for lighter cars vs old iron :). Keeping the transmission would certainly help with torque.

Completely agree on batteries and hopeful as they become more plentiful the prices come down.

Are you running coolant on the pack and controller or just planning on lower demands to keep temps down?
 
Johnbyrdgates

Johnbyrdgates

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Rockport/MA
G8trwood said:
Thanks for the reply. No doubt the conversion is way, way more expensive. Seems like there is a lot more motor options out there for lighter cars vs old iron :). Keeping the transmission would certainly help with torque.

Completely agree on batteries and hopeful as they become more plentiful the prices come down.

Are you running coolant on the pack and controller or just planning on lower demands to keep temps down?
Click to expand...
G8trwood said:
Thanks for the reply. No doubt the conversion is way, way more expensive. Seems like there is a lot more motor options out there for lighter cars vs old iron :). Keeping the transmission would certainly help with torque.

Completely agree on batteries and hopeful as they become more plentiful the prices come down.

Are you running coolant on the pack and controller or just planning on lower demands to keep temps down?
Click to expand...
Cooling the batteries is not part of my project yet. EVWest told me that I may not need to cool them. I ordered connectors for the cooling ports and they’ve been on back order for almost a year now, so my plan is to try the truck without battery cooling. Actually, battery heating will probably be mate of an issue for me in the winter, since the battery management system won’t allow them to charge if it’s freezing out. So, whenever my connectors arrive, I’ll be rigging it up for a cooling/heating unit.
The controllers are mounted to a ¼” aluminum plate that’s as large as the radiator was. I think it will keep them cool enough.
 
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Johnbyrdgates

Johnbyrdgates

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I’ve finished the truck bed rebuild. It has been quite a challenge to duplicate the original tailgate, bed and front piece in aluminum and stainless. Drilling holes in 304 stainless steel eats up drill bits - even cobalt coated ones using oil and pilot holes. One bit absolutely melted at the tip midway through a ¼” angle. I’m happy to be done with it!😅
 
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