electrical hack job and misc electrical

[ultim8gamr]

As Some you you may know i recently purchased a new M1008, actually a month tomorrow, but i have been noticing that a lot of wires were cut by either the military or the previous owner. First, all the blackout light switches were taken out and the wires were cut and tapes behind the dash. the wires leading to the blackouts look to be cut, near the front grille. Is this common procedure when selling to the public? Also i found that a wire was cut that is attached to the accelerator pedal, what is it's significance? and I found a blue cut where from the fuse box on the firewall below the steering wheel is what was that for? Finally, this wire wasn't cut, but under the hood, on the firewall behind the rear battery where the positive and negative clocks that all the wires go to has a small wire that runs from the positive strip to the negative strip that is fried, is that needed there? I have been driving it with no problems, unless i don't know what its like with it on.
I know i should read the TM but i am really bad at understanding wiring diagrams. Never too late to learn tho

Here are links to the pictures, i left them large so that it would be easier to see and so i didnt post them in this forum.

On accelerator:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/5011/1013349ia9.jpg

Near Fuse Block:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/9750/1013350ri1.jpg

Behind rear battery:
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/6/10133281kg0.jpg

Thanks
John

 

[hypgnostic]

I don't know if this is related or not, as I'm pretty much a newbie to CUCV's, but I know that on my 1028, when the engine is cold my truck idles higher until it warms up. When I start it, I just rev it once to let the pedal throttle lock take hold. Once it's warmed up, the gas pedal will actually pop back out on it's own. Instead of all this being done under the hood at the throttle connection, it actually takes place at the gas pedal itself, which is what surprised me and made me take notice. It acts similar to the throttle locks on the HMMWV's (you know, NOT TO BE USED AS A CRUISE CONTROL lol). I don't know if the 1008's have the same thing, but it seems logical that that's what your wire cut from the pedal might be. The rest of them, I'm not sure...

 

[mangus580]

Re: RE: electrical hack job and misc electrical

I don't know if this is related or not, as I'm pretty much a newbie to CUCV's, but I know that on my 1028, when the engine is cold my truck idles higher until it warms up. When I start it, I just rev it once to let the pedal throttle lock take hold. Once it's warmed up, the gas pedal will actually pop back out on it's own. Instead of all this being done under the hood at the throttle connection, it actually takes place at the gas pedal itself, which is what surprised me and made me take notice. It acts similar to the throttle locks on the HMMWV's (you know, NOT TO BE USED AS A CRUISE CONTROL lol). I don't know if the 1008's have the same thing, but it seems logical that that's what your wire cut from the pedal might be. The rest of them, I'm not sure...

This is NOT true. The high idle circuit is done right at the injection pump. The switch at the throttle pedal is for the 'kickdown circuit' on the transmission.

 

[mangus580]

RE: Re: RE: electrical hack job and misc electrical

You said "The high idle circuit is done right at the injection pump. The switch at the throttle pedal is for the 'kickdown circuit' on the transmission." What your saying makes MUCH more sense to me, and is honestly a bit of a relief. I was confused when I noticed my pedal being throttle locked for higher idle. Do you have any idea why it might be doing it this way? It's definitely locking at the pedal, as I have to depress it far enough for the lock to take hold (no high idle until I rev it to the point where it takes hold), and then it visibly and audibly pops out once the engine is warmed. If it's supposed to be happening at the injection pump, I don't know why it's holding my pedal, and why I have to throttle it up for it to grab.

I moved this out of the PM, because its a very valid question that I feel the answer needs to be displayed here.

Yes, the high idle system requires you to 'set' the pedal. If you open your hood, and look at the front of the injection pump, you will see a hex head screw with a slot in it. This screw passes through a solenoid coil, that has a (green?) wire feeding it. This is the high idle solenoid. It does not have the strength to move the idle up on its own, only hold it. Hence the reason you need to depress the pedal some after you turn the key on, to get it to hold. Because this solenoid directly holds the throttle linkage, it is going to give the feeling at the pedal that it is in a different position, and quite possibly could lead to the impression that something is doing the holding right at the pedal.

Does this make sense?

 

[hypgnostic]

RE: Re: RE: electrical hack job and misc electrical

Excellent. Totally makes sense, and I appreciate you clearing this up for me. It's just one of those little things that has been nagging on me for awhile...

 

[CUCVFAN]

RE: Re: RE: electrical hack job and misc electrical

And since the recommended starting procedure is half to full throttle anyway (depending on ambient temp), the solenoid gets set without you even noticing that the pedal is "held down" until it pops back up after warm up.

It's basically changing the throttle return stop point on the IP to increase the idle temporarily. So, when cold, your pedal can't come back up as far as it does when the engine is warm, until it kicks off.

 

[ultim8gamr]

RE: Re: RE: electrical hack job and misc electrical

But does anyone know the asnwers to the wiring questions? I am not having any major starting issues with it, just want to know why the wires are cut and if they need to be replaced/fixed.

 

[mangus580]

RE: Re: RE: electrical hack job and misc electrical

All but the blue wire cut in the harness appear to be 'add-ons' that were done and remove...

I will have to dig in the TM to find out what that blue wire is....

 

[ultim8gamr]

RE: Re: RE: electrical hack job and misc electrical

Does anyone have the fuse for the back of the volt meter. I have tried most of the electrical places in town and no one has it. Had a cool chat with a Marine who just got back from the middle east and spent some time in Baghdad. A website would work to if anyone knows of a place to buy them online. or does anyone have a spare they'd like to share/sell?
John

 

[ultim8gamr]

The cut blue wire leads to the large relay(i think its a relay?) that is tied up above the fuse block under the dash. is this the relay for the Black out lights?
John

 

[OPCOM]

Maybe the little thin burned wire is actually a pair of wires that were used for an accessory at one time.

 

[Armada]

The small burned out wire between the pos and neg bus is a factory noise supressor. They were attached to each other at one time. All CUCV's have/had them. It is a military option only, and is not needed. Remove the attached pieces that are left.

 

[aboonski]

This is in regards to the fuse in the back of the voltmeter on your M1008. You are probably referring to the resistor that drops the voltage down from 24 volts to 12 volts. I don't know if any of these are available anywhere and they are always going bad which makes the battery meter inoperative. Just get a ceramic resistor, 250-300 ohm range and capable of handling about 1 amp of power and install it between the two posts where the other resistor is in place - you can leave the old one right there. Your voltmeter should work at that point. There is a fuse for the meter and I believe it is a 10 amp type at the bottom of your fuse box. Check that out first before you do anything to the back of the voltmeter because they sometimes blow.

 

[ultim8gamr]

thanks for the resistor info. the first thing i did was check all the fuses and found the very bottom was blown and replaced it. then i pulled the voltmeter out.