fullthrottle46
New member
- 26
- 7
- 3
- Location
- Vancouver, WA
Preface Info:
- The starter works, I crawled under the truck and arched the starter with a tire iron and it turned over.
- there is 12 volts of power to the purpleish pink ignition wire when the key is turned fwd all the way.
Hey guys,
So starting issues with my daily driver truck.... it is a M1031 that has been molested sadly by a teenager, not me, I'm old. Anyways, the kid scrapped the box, generator and 24v system and put a regular bed on it and most importantly he could never get the truck to start correctly with the key. So instead they used a momentary switch to start the truck in addition to a manual glow plug momentary switch. How the starter switch is hooked up:
There is a wire coming off the small post on the starter to the switch in the cab. (btw the powerprobe reads this wire as (-) negative)
Then there's another wire coming from the in cab switch to the positive terminal thing (sorry I forget the name) thats next to the glow plug solenoid on the firewall.
Question #1:
Is this starter momentary switch hooked up correctly?
The other week I got some bulk 2 Gauge AWG battery cable to clean up some cables. Also I replaced the 4 Gauge cable going from the positive terminal posts on the firewall to the starter with the 2 gauge. This is when the issues started.
Question #2:
Would going from 4 gauge to 2 gauge on the starter cause my momentary switch meltdowns?
I really want to get rid of the momentary starter switch and start using the key to start the truck. Using my other CUCV M1009 as reference, I tracked down the correct wire that used to connect to the small post on the starter. It's that purpleish pink wire that connects to the small post on the starter. On the M1031 it's been cut and I believe it used to have an in-line fuse that is no longer there as well. I connected the purpleish pink wire to the wire that's connected to the small post on the battery and tried to use the key to start, but to no success.
Question #3:
The purpleish pink wire that comes from the ignition switch, does that directly go to the small post on the starter? Also could not having an in-line fuse be an issue for it to start? I planned on putting one in if it worked.
I saw on YouTube that a failed ignition switch could be the problem so I removed it and inspected it, pulling it apart to see the contacts and I could not see any burns or heating up indicating that it failed. I did order one just in case and planned on installing it to see.
Question #4:
Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch to basically hotwire the truck to start? That is of course if the purpleish pink wire is connected directly (and is supposed to) to the small post on the starter.
The neutral safety switch... It seems to be hooked up and mounted correctly and I'm not sure if this affects starting the truck? I'm basically trying to discover every electrical part that affects starting the truck and what's needed to do so. As you can tell so far I am not an electrical mechanic and I'm just trying to do the best I can with a hacked into situation by the kid.
Last question, there's a solenoid thing to the right of the steering column at the bottom of the dash that makes a clicking noise when I turn the key.
Question #5:
Does that has something to do with starting the truck? Here's a picture:
thank you so much in advance and I really hope we can collectively find a solution.
P.S NOTE:
Using the powerprobe to kick the starter over... I tested another starter i have with another battery by connecting the negative jumper cable to the starter bracket and then I connected the positive jumper cable to the large post on the starter. I then hooked up the power probe to the battery and probed the small post (which read as (-) negative) and pressed the (+) button on the powerprobe and viola! The starter kicked over.
I tried the same procedure on the truck itself and the powerprobe circuit breaker kept popping. I disconnected one of the batteries so only one battery was powering the truck and the same thing happened with the circuit breaker.
- The starter works, I crawled under the truck and arched the starter with a tire iron and it turned over.
- there is 12 volts of power to the purpleish pink ignition wire when the key is turned fwd all the way.
Hey guys,
So starting issues with my daily driver truck.... it is a M1031 that has been molested sadly by a teenager, not me, I'm old. Anyways, the kid scrapped the box, generator and 24v system and put a regular bed on it and most importantly he could never get the truck to start correctly with the key. So instead they used a momentary switch to start the truck in addition to a manual glow plug momentary switch. How the starter switch is hooked up:
There is a wire coming off the small post on the starter to the switch in the cab. (btw the powerprobe reads this wire as (-) negative)
Then there's another wire coming from the in cab switch to the positive terminal thing (sorry I forget the name) thats next to the glow plug solenoid on the firewall.
Question #1:
Is this starter momentary switch hooked up correctly?
The other week I got some bulk 2 Gauge AWG battery cable to clean up some cables. Also I replaced the 4 Gauge cable going from the positive terminal posts on the firewall to the starter with the 2 gauge. This is when the issues started.
Question #2:
Would going from 4 gauge to 2 gauge on the starter cause my momentary switch meltdowns?
I really want to get rid of the momentary starter switch and start using the key to start the truck. Using my other CUCV M1009 as reference, I tracked down the correct wire that used to connect to the small post on the starter. It's that purpleish pink wire that connects to the small post on the starter. On the M1031 it's been cut and I believe it used to have an in-line fuse that is no longer there as well. I connected the purpleish pink wire to the wire that's connected to the small post on the battery and tried to use the key to start, but to no success.
Question #3:
The purpleish pink wire that comes from the ignition switch, does that directly go to the small post on the starter? Also could not having an in-line fuse be an issue for it to start? I planned on putting one in if it worked.
I saw on YouTube that a failed ignition switch could be the problem so I removed it and inspected it, pulling it apart to see the contacts and I could not see any burns or heating up indicating that it failed. I did order one just in case and planned on installing it to see.
Question #4:
Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch to basically hotwire the truck to start? That is of course if the purpleish pink wire is connected directly (and is supposed to) to the small post on the starter.
The neutral safety switch... It seems to be hooked up and mounted correctly and I'm not sure if this affects starting the truck? I'm basically trying to discover every electrical part that affects starting the truck and what's needed to do so. As you can tell so far I am not an electrical mechanic and I'm just trying to do the best I can with a hacked into situation by the kid.
Last question, there's a solenoid thing to the right of the steering column at the bottom of the dash that makes a clicking noise when I turn the key.
Question #5:
Does that has something to do with starting the truck? Here's a picture:
thank you so much in advance and I really hope we can collectively find a solution.
P.S NOTE:
Using the powerprobe to kick the starter over... I tested another starter i have with another battery by connecting the negative jumper cable to the starter bracket and then I connected the positive jumper cable to the large post on the starter. I then hooked up the power probe to the battery and probed the small post (which read as (-) negative) and pressed the (+) button on the powerprobe and viola! The starter kicked over.
I tried the same procedure on the truck itself and the powerprobe circuit breaker kept popping. I disconnected one of the batteries so only one battery was powering the truck and the same thing happened with the circuit breaker.
