Engine Barring Tool ??

[KaiserM109]

Can anyone tell me what an “engine barring tool” looks like or how to turn the engine (NHC 250) over in small increments?

I am getting ready to swap out an automatic transmission in my M923A1 and have been searching TMs for information on how to do that little task. I have found lots of good info, including torque spec’s , etc., but there is one thing I still need some help on: in TM9-2320-272-24-3 page 4-469 and page 4-472 it refers to an “engine barring tool” to turn the engine and there is a reference to one of the Appendix E and other places, but I cannot find any description or picture of one.

Arlyn

 

[Scar59]

Search the threads in the 5 ton forum, the engine barring tool was discussed not to long ago, and a couple of photos were displayed. The tool can be had at the commercial level. (big truck stuff store).
JC

 

[steelandcanvas]

Arlyn: Is the part in post #6 what you're looking for?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?114047-NHC250-Barring-tool-part

 

[KaiserM109]

Thanks Jon, you must be a better searcher than I.

The suspense mounts!
I called Cummins of Denver, CO and asked if they had such a tool for an NHC-250 and he quoted me $4??,?? (I got a ringing in my ears when I heard “four hundred …” and couldn’t hear the rest ). He said the part number was ST747 and I googled it. It seems that on an NHC-250 it is some sort of wrench that fits one of the pulleys on the front of the engine, not the little tool that fits on the end of a socket set. There were a couple on eBay but I need to be working by Sat. morning.

I’m sure somebody on SS has another way to turn the engine over in small increments, isn’t there?

On my old Fords, etc., I used to put a wrench on the nut that bolts on the damper wheel on the front of the crankshaft.

HELP!!

 

[BILLDEUCE]

I bard my 8.3 over with the alternator pulley nut with the belt on obviously when rest the valve lashing

 

[steelandcanvas]

I called Cummins of Denver, CO and asked if they had such a tool for an NHC-250 and he quoted me $4??,?? (I got a ringing in my ears when I heard “four hundred …” and couldn’t hear the rest ).

Arlyn, Did you tell them you just wanted one...not a dozen?? I've found out through the years, all Cummins stuff is made of "Spendytanium".

 

[jonesal]

The tool shown in the link above is for the A2. Here are pics of the ST-747 barring tool for the A0/A1 model - OR - in some cases the A0 that has the hole for the small tool. I found this one on eBay for about $50 - it's a Snap On brand.



Al Jones

'84 M923

 

[Gamagoat1]

Can anyone tell me what an “engine barring tool” looks like or how to turn the engine (NHC 250) over in small increments?

I am getting ready to swap out an automatic transmission in my M923A1 and have been searching TMs for information on how to do that little task. I have found lots of good info, including torque spec’s , etc., but there is one thing I still need some help on: in TM9-2320-272-24-3 page 4-469 and page 4-472 it refers to an “engine barring tool” to turn the engine and there is a reference to one of the Appendix E and other places, but I cannot find any description or picture of one.

Arlyn

The Civi NHC250 service manual says Barr it over from the accessory drive. Here is what I made at a cost of 0.

Works great for doing overhead as well as any job that needs to turn this beast over.


The bar is 26" long x 1 1/8 wide x 1/2 thick. Socket is a 1 5/16 cut down so that there is 2 3/16 distance from socket lip to farthest edge of bar. (For clearance between fan shroud and drive pully)

 

[KaiserM109]

The Civi NHC250 service manual says Barr it over from the accessory drive. Here is what I made at a cost of 0.

Works great for doing overhead as well as any job that needs to turn this beast over.

The bar is 26" long x 1 1/8 wide x 1/2 thick. Socket is a 1 5/16 cut down so that there is 2 3/16 distance from socket lip to farthest edge of bar. (For clearance between fan shroud and drive pully)

THANKS!

I don’t have a welder available at the moment, so I will probably have to do it a little differently. I do have a grinder, though, and I’m certainly willing to sacrifice a socket and I have a ½ drive breaker bar.

I’m not quite sure what the “accessory drive” is, but I’ll bet I can figure that out.

Again THANKS!

 

[Gamagoat1]

THANKS!

I don’t have a welder available at the moment, so I will probably have to do it a little differently. I do have a grinder, though, and I’m certainly willing to sacrifice a socket and I have a ½ drive breaker bar.

I’m not quite sure what the “accessory drive” is, but I’ll bet I can figure that out.

Again THANKS!

In this picture it's the big pulley with the 1 5/16 nut in the middle, behind the fan, driving the powersteering pump. It's not an easy pull so make the bar long enough and strong enough to take it.

 

[KaiserM109]

Thanks. I learned from the best how to "farmer" something, so, with your good advice I'm sure I'll get it done.

BTW, you, thesledge in Black forest and I need to get together some time. mactiredearg is close by too.

Arlyn

 

[Gamagoat1]

Thanks. I learned from the best how to "farmer" something, so, with your good advice I'm sure I'll get it done.

BTW, you, thesledge in Black forest and I need to get together some time. mactiredearg is close by too.

Arlyn

Cool!!

 

[KaiserM109]

I bard my 8.3 over with the alternator pulley nut with the belt on obviously when rest the valve lashing

This is what works for me.

Because of bad weather and my son's girlfriend taking him away from the project (I think they went ring shopping yesterday) we haven’t gotten much done in the last 3 weeks.

We started out trying to bar it from the accessory drive, but as Gamagoat1 pointed out, it is hard to reach, and besides I didn’t have a 1 5/16[SUP]th[/SUP] socket. Plan B, bar it from the alternator pulley. The first thing I had to do was tighten up the belts (I knew they were a little loose) and then tighten up the nut on the pulley, 2 turns!! Then it worked slick as can be. Not too difficult and definitely not enough force to be hurting anything.

This should be the end of this thread, but I want to tag one more related question to the end.

When I separate the transmission from the engine, do I need to support one end or the other of the engine?

On civilian cars and truck that I have worked on, the answer is a resounding ‘yes’. I read the TM and it doesn’t mention it, but I don’t trust the TM to be that thorough. It doesn’t say anything about unhooking and re-installing the linkages and speedometer to the transmission, either.

 

[KaiserM109]

Follow up and thread closure:
If you can't reach a wrench in to the accessory drive (see Gamagoar1's response), you can bar it from the generator if you over-tighten the belts, BUT the method we settled on it to simply bar it from the bolt on the front of the crankshaft. It is a reasonably sized bolt (I think 7/8") and if you use a huge cheater bar, you can clock it in small increments. You don't need the bar because it's hard to turn, it helps to make it easier to move in small amounts.

About supporting the engine, you don't have to; there are mounts in the back and front.

 

[Tow4]

I barred my NHC250 over using a socket and breaker bar on the accessory drive pulley bolt. If the fan is on the engine it will be a time consuming pain in the A (in an M81.