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Engine knocking LDS-456

davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
Make a "allen key" by using the correct size bolt head that fits, and then double nut the other end and use a wrench on the double nut side to remove the plug. when you drain the tank into containers, let them sit overnight to separate all the water and dirt before pouring it back into the truck tank after you properly clean it.
 

Oerthedge21

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Northford CT
I'm gonna take one more look through there today once I get the tires back for my car. The only thing left I can think of would be a cam issue. I'm gonna look over as much of it as I can from the bottom of the engine. If I can't find anything I guess I'll just have to out it back together as is, which I'd rather not do because I can't stand that noise. I was thinking about teaching up and pulling the oil sprayers down a tad to make for certain one or more of hem isn't tapping the bottom of a piston
 

Oerthedge21

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Well I checked what u could see of the cam and all of the lobes were present and in good shape. No loose parts that I can find, nothing out of spec. I guess it's just gonna have a tick then. Picked up some new oil filters just now, gonna finish bolting the pan up and toss the break in oil in there. Hopefully all goes well
 

frank8003

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Would be good to pull the plates and seats if one must and inspect the bolts.
There is much to apply the grease to in there, few do...........................
Why do I think that LDS is just ducky?
 

Oerthedge21

Member
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Northford CT
I absolutely love the wrench on a string idea, I've never though of something like that. Anyhow, wouldn't a loose jackshaft bolt create a clicking/ticking only if the truck is driving? My truck was ticking just idling in the driveway, even if I pushed the clutch in. Today I out the break in oil in here and took it for another ride, the ticking seems to have quieted a little, I'm not sure. Now underneath you just hear more of a knockety diesel. The oil pressure sits at 30 psi idle when fully warmed up and driven, and goes up to about 60 at 2k rpm. I'm hoping my ears don't device me and that maybe that ticking was somehow just a noise it was making because things weren't worn in yet. Still has a concerning amount of blowby though, comes out in pulses like before which I really don't like. Hoping it's still just unseated rings, I've only put maybe a little over an hour on the engine since the rebuild now so hopefully it'll wear in and seal better
 

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Denver, Colorado
In working on my truck, I spent an enormous amount of time researching old threads, on a budgillion different topics, as many of us have. A few pearls of wisdom regarding blow-by that have stuck with me...

"If it's not consuming oil, it's not worn out" - Will Wagner, SS Moderator
"Unless it's using oil, or losing oil, don't worry about it" - Doghead, SS Moderator
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
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83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
You need to get out on the road and load the engine hard to seat the rings. Idling is the worst thing for a freshly ringed engine. Do not idle it longer than necessary to reach operating temperature before a drive.
 

frank8003

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Last edited:

Oerthedge21

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Northford CT
Yes I know about not idling it, I had no choice while I was diagnosing a few leaks and looking into that noise though. I never idled it for any longer than I had to to accomplish whatever I was trying to do
 

frank8003

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Is the torque peak at 1850 with an LDS?
Put anything you can get that is heavy in the back and drive it at torque peak for a couple of whiles.
Not fast, can't go fast anyhow, but you got lots of gears to pick from.
The back full of dirt plus a few thousand pounds will help.
Drive Her, Then figure what to fix.
You have not even got to the camel back suspension that always needs inspection and maybe work.
Pull the tunnels covers and watch and listen around the yard.
 

Oerthedge21

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Northford CT
I got it loaded with as much scrap as I could find, including an entire truck bed off my Chevy. I've poked around with the rear suspension before and everything seemed tight and good, mine has the roller bearing pivot as opposed to the bushing. Mine also already had grease fittings on the bottoms of the trunions which I pumped fill of grease until it oozed out the seals.
 

Oerthedge21

Member
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Location
Northford CT
Got the new temp sender in today, gauge doesn't hit 240 anymore, but it's still reading high. Gauge gets to about 210 and stays there after a little driving. IR gun still reads 165 anywhere on the engine. Went and picked up a mechanical temp gauge and a boost gauge at the parts store. Gonna put those in tomorrow as long as it doesn't rain all day again and see if the truck really is that hot or of the gauge is dead as well
 
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