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Engine running great then all of sudden dies on me

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Fix the problem first before you go do a lot of changing. IMHO you are just adding more equations to the problem by changing everything when you do NOT even know what is wrong and causing the issue. Save a lot a time and money. The fuel filter base may be the issue. But it may NOT be the issue. But do as you wish. I have never had issues with the fuel filter base that a self tapping screw and sealer couldn't fix or a $40. pressure switch. But again do as you wish. Some advise is don't dance around the issue. I say the injection pump is leaking and that will make air bubbles in the fuel also. Have a Great Day. And like Burger King. All I ask is to have it your way. Good Luck.
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
Fix the problem first before you go do a lot of changing. IMHO you are just adding more equations to the problem by changing everything when you do NOT even know what is wrong and causing the issue. Save a lot a time and money. The fuel filter base may be the issue. But it may NOT be the issue. But do as you wish. I have never had issues with the fuel filter base that a self tapping screw and sealer couldn't fix or a $40. pressure switch. But again do as you wish. Some advise is don't dance around the issue. I say the injection pump is leaking and that will make air bubbles in the fuel also. Have a Great Day. And like Burger King. All I ask is to have it your way. Good Luck.
I truly appreciate your and others advice. I do believe the stock filter base needs the screw fix. I was leaning towards the spin on filter since the filters are cheaper and easier to replace but its not a must. By replacing the entire the base, I can rule it out entirely of causing air bubbles. The OEM square filter is fairly new with less than 500 miles on it. The rubber LP fuel lines have seen better days and need to be replaced. Previous owner had 2 electric LP's and I'm not sure why so I have it down to one LP right now which seems to be pumping enough fuel but I would like to measure the pressure.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
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Location
Cincy Ohio
I have an fm100 base and filters if thats the route youd like to go. Lots of members here have put them on and theres lots of options available for them. Send a pm if interested.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Virginia
I agree with Rick. Find and fix the problem. Once that's behind you, you can consider the replacement filter, if you like. I like the idea myself, but I have not done it yet.

But you don't need more variables right now - you have a problem to solve.
 

rodent

Member
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Location
Denver, CO
I agree with Rick. Find and fix the problem. Once that's behind you, you can consider the replacement filter, if you like. I like the idea myself, but I have not done it yet.
But you don't need more variables right now - you have a problem to solve.
I get what your saying. Right now I'm seeing possible air bubbles and suspect the filter housing. I have two options. Try to fix the OEM housing or replace it with aftermarket. To me its easier to go aftermarket to rule this out of causing the problem. I also think the OEM filter base needs new o-rings on top of the screw mod and appears to be leaking at the bottom. I wouldn't say I'm introducing more variables to the problem, I see it as eliminating something that could be causing it.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
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Location
NH
I get what your saying. Right now I'm seeing possible air bubbles and suspect the filter housing. I have two options. Try to fix the OEM housing or replace it with aftermarket. To me its easier to go aftermarket to rule this out of causing the problem. I also think the OEM filter base needs new o-rings on top of the screw mod and appears to be leaking at the bottom. I wouldn't say I'm introducing more variables to the problem, I see it as eliminating something that could be causing it.
I just replaced a box housing with the later 6.5 round filter housing (plugs are the same) I also suspected a bad housing, and rather then search for the right o-rings I just swapped housings. Glad I did, because initial inspection showed a slight cracking near the bottom of the housing, something not fixable.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
I just replaced a box housing with the later 6.5 round filter housing (plugs are the same) I also suspected a bad housing, and rather then search for the right o-rings I just swapped housings. Glad I did, because initial inspection showed a slight cracking near the bottom of the housing, something not fixable.
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
Is this the one you got? Part #GF647 I was just looking at that one and it would be nice if the plugs were the same.
 

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Matt5

Banned
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Location
NY
Um, unless something was majorly changed, why is everyone thinking the filter housing (that is under *pressure*) is causing air bubbles. The filter is after the fuel pump, your not going to get air bubbles after bleeding the system. The filter could allow drain back but with enough cranking the engine will run and the air bubbles will be gone (if it is the filter). Mine would drain back so bad I had to run the truck on like half a can of ether before it would prime, after it was running however it never stumbled.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
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NH
Nope, AC-DELCO 10226035, that one looks like the 6.6 duramax filter...but not quite.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
Um, unless something was majorly changed, why is everyone thinking the filter housing (that is under *pressure*) is causing air bubbles. The filter is after the fuel pump, your not going to get air bubbles after bleeding the system. The filter could allow drain back but with enough cranking the engine will run and the air bubbles will be gone (if it is the filter). Mine would drain back so bad I had to run the truck on like half a can of ether before it would prime, after it was running however it never stumbled.
The fuel filter base is leaking on the bottom and needs the screw mod along with the o-rings replaced. Regardless of air bubbles or not, this needs to be addressed along with the old fuel lines. I'll run some pressure checks on the lines going to the tank.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Mine would remain dry when running, but overnight the bottom would be wet, and then I would have bubbles when starting. It would stay dry all day, so long it was started within 4 hours of running. If I let it sit all day when at work (8 hours) it would have some bubbles, and the base would be fairly dry, letting it sit overnight (10+hrs) the base would become damp and it would chug for 30 seconds before clearing.

Some one once explained how that could happen, but I've since forgotten and since replacing the housing solved the issue (already had new fuel lines and hoses) I just accepted it.
Um, unless something was majorly changed, why is everyone thinking the filter housing (that is under *pressure*) is causing air bubbles. The filter is after the fuel pump, your not going to get air bubbles after bleeding the system. The filter could allow drain back but with enough cranking the engine will run and the air bubbles will be gone (if it is the filter). Mine would drain back so bad I had to run the truck on like half a can of ether before it would prime, after it was running however it never stumbled.
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
Last Update...
After weeks, its finally running! Let it warm up, took it for a spin and no issues.

Honestly I'm still baffled on what initially caused it to stall like that. There's a couple things I suspect.
-Filter housing- Needs the tap and plug mod and is leaking
-Filter- Its hard to blow through but only has 500 miles on it. Maybe I have some crap in the tank.
-2nd lift pump- Previous owner had 2 lift pumps in series. I tried the other one this time around.

The new filter base and filter turned out really nice. It still uses the same wires as the OEM filter base so you don't lose any features. Also added a pressure gauge on the IP side. Uses the same mounting holes with longer bolts/spacers. The fuel fittings are not easy to find since they are not NPT. They are 16mm with the o-ring at the end. My local race shop carried some AN fittings which allowed me to add the gauge.

I still want to replace the IP for peace of mind but now it gives me more time. Just need to find a good core.

Thanks again for all the help!

Edit-
I did find my lift pump supply hose cut some by the belt. That would explain the air bubbles. Also that 1st lift pump I finally removed was hardly pumping any fuel so combination of both.

20180620_174633.jpg20180620_204605.jpg20180620_211818.jpg
 
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rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
THAT is an FM100 filter base. Nice choice.
I was impressed with it and it was a simple install. I did have to reuse the old connectors but the wires were the same color. A better option would to re-pin new weather tight connectors for it but for now it works with the stock harness. For $80 including filter it was not a bad deal which also included the fuel heater and water sensor.

This morning it started much quicker than before so another plus for doing this mod.
 
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