twomorestrokes
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So 67_C-30, thanks for the comparison of Banks vs GM turbo setups. Leads me to another question. When using a GM setup will I be able to keep both batteries and both alternators?
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I have a "stock" setup on my 1008. I still have both alternators. The back battery tray had to be removed, but I used a factory driver's side tray to relocate it.So 67_C-30, thanks for the comparison of Banks vs GM turbo setups. Leads me to another question. When using a GM setup will I be able to keep both batteries and both alternators?
Guess you miss the whole "concept" of keeping these trucks relitively original.
I don't think gearing swaps or a 700R4 is butchering. Even though a TH400 in stock form is much more reliable than the 700, the 700 is still fully hydraulic (other than the lockup switch) and requires no computer to function. You are not detracting from the function of a CUCV by doing that if done right especially in an M1009. I'm just stating that most people looking for and willing to pay for a CUCV want the bare bones reliability of the diesel. On top of which most of the time these things are hacked up when conversions are done. Relatively original I think means it has been booty fab'd or backyard re-engineered because someone can't figure out how a perfectly good diesel works.Not picking on you but this whole concept of "relively original" is bull. Look how many are swapping higher gears & 700r4 trans ? Talk about butchering a truck & killing its purpose.
Yes, Im one of the ones putting A/C & a gasser motor in one of mine.
I want a "reliable" truck that can go over 65mph
Patracy is correct - you have to relocate the rear battery, and you cannot run 6-TL's (which most people don't do anyway). My boss is a Interstate battery dealer, and he can get them for me for less than $100 each. I love the look of them, and I left my interior light for 3 days once, and the truck still started, so I'm a believer in them.I have a "stock" setup on my 1008. I still have both alternators. The back battery tray had to be removed, but I used a factory driver's side tray to relocate it.
The Banks set-up is a kit and is around $2100 new. http://performancetruckproducts.com...-sub-h-d-2wd?gclid=COrdn5Sf1bUCFQ6xnQodqgsAcAAnyone have part numbers for these turbo setups? or instructions on how to add one? do they need tuning like a gas engine would?
Wow that would be a great upgrade without major modding.
If you're going to buy a turbo setup from GM based on the parts number, you'll spend more than a Banks kit.Anyone have part numbers for these turbo setups? or instructions on how to add one? do they need tuning like a gas engine would?
Wow that would be a great upgrade without major modding.
With the new thread button in the top corner. Specifically, you'll need to post that in the parts wanted section.how the heck do i make my own post? i just got in here by axadent...anyway i need a engine wiring harnessNSN# 01-160-1699 for my m1009 that i just melted
Very true. I like my 1008 in mostly stock form, but I also like doing some natural improvements that I feel would have been good ideas from the factory to make them more usable for what they were intended for. Many folks are ok with adding lifts but since I am now considering adding a turbo I have been browsing the "Hotrodding your CUCV" part of the forum. Maybe this thread should be in that section...You can't hardly come on a mostly purist website like this and not get bashed for conversion questions.
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