Ether on mep-002a

[trooper632]

Can you use either to try help get a mep-002a started. Or is it a no-no, I know you can use it on a diesel like the m923a2 but its not advisable on a cucv. Not getting fuel from the IP.

 

[Isaac-1]

Just don't do it, and if you are not getting fuel from the injection pump it would not help anything, you need to either bleed the air out of the lines, or you may need to repair the injection pump. When these units sit for a long time the fuel can gum up the injection pump, then when you try to start it the drive key in the injection pump shears off.

 

[CDR]

Exactly what he said the only time I think either might help you is if it's -50 out and you lost all hope of it starting. But you have to remember the glow plugs can ignite the either exploding the unit

 

[doghead]

The stop solenoid may not be lifting(they get sticky from sitting).

Lift it with your hand and see what you get.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I agree with whats posted above. General rule is anything with glow plugs, you don't want to use ether.

I have used it in the past, but was scared something would blow up. Its best not to take that chance.

 

[Keith_J]

Never on an indirect injected engine. These have higher compression ratios. If you don't have white smoke on cranking, you have no fuel so ether will do no good.

 

[Captaincarrier]

Try a rag soaked with gasoline over the air intake.

 

[Keith_J]

If you want a run away diesel, put fuel products in or near the intake. The MEP 002 and 003 engines have pistons with three compression rings and one oil control ring, they do not need any additional fuel when cranking. Ether is really bad, gasoline fumes and the like offer little in ignition aid, they will cause run away and possible engine damage.

Ether has a rather wide flammability range and a very low auto ignition point so it likes to detonate. In the low rpm of engine cranking, it can ignite far too early and then it has time to do damage. Sure, many DIRECT INJECTION engines have built in ether shot systems but these meter a shot of ether that is small enough to be below the lower flammability limit so it decreases ignition delay.

Ive ve run MEP 002s in sub zero weather without any need for flammable starting aids.

 

[BADJOHN]

I liked the first three words of the first post"DON'T DO IT". I have to tell you if the engine has glow plugs you never use a starting aid, ie ether, gasoline etc. The least that can happen is a failed head gasket. I have both MEP-003 and 002s if the manifold heater and the glow plugs are bad they will not start below 50 F. Also check the connections on the terminals of the glow plugs, many times its a rusty connection on a good plug. if you have a DC capable clamp on amp meter you can measure current to the glow plugs and manifold heater. A simple test for the heaters or glow plugs is an ohm meter, they should test as a short circuit if good, infinity or open if bad. So fix the glow plugs and save the engine.

 

[Keith_J]

If the battery voltmeter works, you will see voltage drop when the glow plugs are engaged. This is why these sets have huge batteries.

 

[dangier]

I believe the use of either cost me two pistons on one of my 002's. Now, a little WD40 won't hurt so bad. But what was said above, if you do not have white smoke out the exhaust, you have other issues that need to be fixed before it will start.

 

[trooper632]

Sounds good, NO ETHER. Thanks, on another note the battery amp meter does not move on either unit I have. Dropped off the starter yesterday the guy is working on it, has a rebuild tag of 2004 looks new inside but solenoid was sticking. I guess I am going to take off IP and clean it just a little apprehensive about it since never done one before.

 

[Suprman]

I was able to start my mep-003a at 6 degrees with no problem I did about 30 seconds of preheat and then cranked it. It smoked and sputtered for a minute or so but then smoothed right out.

 

[doghead]

I always use the slave cable when I crank mine in the cold or when it has sat for a year or more.

It really helps spin it over fast.

 

[trooper632]

Well, got the starter back from the shop, hooked everything up and turned the start key, it cranks over BUT still wont stop cranking after I release the starter key. Had to pull off the positive battery cable to stop it. I then put the positive cable back on and everything is good, starter is not trying to turn over. But every time I try to start it, I have to pull the battery cable off the battery to get the starter to stop. What gives????. Also the control arm on the IP does not move while cranking, it feels easy to move manually by hand though.

 

[doghead]

Maybe try with the starter not connected, the same starting procedure with only a volt meter attached(in place of the starter solenoid)

Sounds like the control circuit may be the issue. Maybe there is a relay in there somewhere that is sticking on?

For the shutoff, try lifting it by hand for now. Mine needs this occasionally, and then it seems to work all day long after that.

 

[BADJOHN]

The problem is probably not in the control box, based on your problem description. I suspect the starter solenoid itself is hanging up and this is causing the problem. Double check your connections to the starter, use the manual and locate wire numbers and check to make sure that they are correct.

 

[trooper632]

BADJOHN, just got the starter back from the rebuild shop.

 

[Keith_J]

Another vote for an incorrectly rebuilt starter solenoid. Probably too much travel on the solenoid drive, causing the solenoid to go over center.

i had the same issue on the starter in my M1031 CUCV because it was missing the pinion stop assembly. It finally broke the nose cone.

Look in the TM for starter rebuild adjustments if applicable. I know the starters in the M35a2 are adjustable as I have rebuilt them. Also check for pinion stop assembly.

 

[trooper632]

If the motor were to start would it kick out the starter, or would the starter just keep running