Ever clean out the air tanks?

[KsM715]

Has anyone here ever removed and cleaned out the air tanks?

It was warm enough today for me to go out and play alittle. I put a bolt in the winch so I could wind the winch cable back onto the drum a little cleaner than that last guy did. (I know, I know, use the proper shear pin) When I got done I went to drain the tanks. The tank farthest inward drained fine but the second one didnt want to drain, it took a pair of pliers just to turn the petcock, and after I got it turned nothing happend so I shoved a piece of wire in it and it sputtered a bit but not nearly as much as it should so I pull the petcock off and wow was it filled with gunk. (see attatched pic)

What can one use to clean the tanks out?

Edit: which suppliers stock the proper shear pins? none of the tractor supply houses or hardware stores around here have them. hence the temporary bolt.

 

[blacktop]

I got the right pins from Saturn Surplus

 

[Lex_Ordo]

Saturn Surplus has the shear pins for the winch. You'll need to buy some cotter pins to secure the pin in place. Saturn's pins are the correct Military aluminum part. USGI.
The cotters are 1/16 inch diameter x 3/4" long.
part # MS24665-134

As for your air tanks, do yourself a favor and also purchase the air resevoir kit.
It is a set of pull valves that allow you to quickly drain the tanks after use, and can be done from the side of the truck. No climbing under it to try and turn the valves.

M35 Air Resevoir Kit part # 11677294 NSN 2530-01-052-9387 $18.50​

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[KsM715]

Ive got the pull cord setup on the M818 and plan on doing it to this truck also. I want to clean as much crud out of the tanks as well but dont know if there are any products that I could use to "swish" around in the tank to remove the rust, then drain it out.

 

[Heavysteven]

Those pull cord drain cocks are on Mcmaster Carr as well. www.mcmaster.com

Going to order some tomorrow

 

[Bill W]

I got the pull drain valves at my local auto parts store ( Bumper to Bumper) for about $6.00ea, NAPA carries them also. My tanks were so far gone I had to replace them (My 35 came from Michigan)

 

[number9]

I went around today after work looking for the pull type tank drain valves. NAPA didn't have them in stock - my NAPA sucks for anything other than auto parts. Tractor Supply didn't have them, but I did pick up a 3" Rain Cap for the Deuce exhaust. Pilot truck stop didn't have them either. Stopped by the International Truck dealership and they had them......... at $23.50 each

I found these on ebay and they look exactly like the ones the International dealer had. Air Tank Drain Valve w/5 foot cable fits all trucks : eBay Motors (item 230342860223 end time Feb-07-10 03:35:55 PST)

I have seen others on this site post these Haldex-Midland Air Tank Drain valve 12104 ........ which look exactly like these I also seen on ebay Air Tank Drain Valve w/5 foot cable fits all trucks : eBay Motors (item 350077957064 end time Mar-01-10 09:11:41 PST)

The question I have is - is either of these style drains regarded as better quality than the other from those that have experience with them?

My tank drains were froze up this past weekend and I need to get in the habit of draining the tanks but don't want to get filthy doing it as it's not always dry and clean where I park my truck.

............

 

[Heavysteven]

Guys any know off the top of there head what's size thread male connection is on the air tanks? 1/4?" correct?

 

[67X]

you know it woulda been nice had they made these tanks outta Stainless Steel...Anyone ever conside taking one and cutting the heads off these with a hand held band saw, and then welding the head back on. Seems to me that would be the best way to really clean up the inside, but then again I might be just trying to find an excuse to weld something.

Adam

 

[steelandcanvas]

Guys any know off the top of there head what's size thread male connection is on the air tanks? 1/4?" correct?

Roger that....1/4"

 

[steelandcanvas]

I was seriously thinking about getting away from the "pull type" drain valves on the air tanks. I noticed sometimes they do not close all the way when the cable is released. There does not seem to be any excessive crap or gunk in them to cause them to act this way. I might just install a couple of ball valves and call it good. I'll just have to get dirty again to drain the tanks.

 

[70deuce]

My pull type drain valves on my deuce are now in a box somewhere. At first they sealed tight after being activated but after awhile neither one would close completely after pulling and releasing the cable like Steelandcanvas is experiencing. They are handy but don't work correctly. Went back to stock ball valves and climbing under the truck to open them manually. Thinking of what the military did on my M818 and have a single ball valve located under the drivers side running board that is tee'd into both tanks and drains them both at the same time. On the deuce maybe a frame mounted valve behind the spare and in front of the forward rear drive axle tires connected to both tanks would work.

 

[steelandcanvas]

My pull type drain valves on my deuce are now in a box somewhere. At first they sealed tight after being activated but after awhile neither one would close completely after pulling and releasing the cable like Steelandcanvas is experiencing. They are handy but don't work correctly. Went back to stock ball valves and climbing under the truck to open them manually. Thinking of what the military did on my M818 and have a single ball valve located under the drivers side running board that is tee'd into both tanks and drains them both at the same time. On the deuce maybe a frame mounted valve behind the spare and in front of the forward rear drive axle tires connected to both tanks would work.

Nice idea! You think they would have done that on the Deuce.

 

[number9]

My pull type drain valves on my deuce are now in a box somewhere. At first they sealed tight after being activated but after awhile neither one would close completely after pulling and releasing the cable like Steelandcanvas is experiencing. They are handy but don't work correctly. Went back to stock ball valves and climbing under the truck to open them manually. Thinking of what the military did on my M818 and have a single ball valve located under the drivers side running board that is tee'd into both tanks and drains them both at the same time. On the deuce maybe a frame mounted valve behind the spare and in front of the forward rear drive axle tires connected to both tanks would work.

Good idea. Guess I'll look at doing that after the two pull type I just ordered a few hours ago stop working

.....

 

[Heavysteven]

Thanks for the info, going to stick with the drain cocks

 

[Speddmon]

A lot of great information about the pull cord drain cocks and such, but nobody is answering the OP's question.

Jeff,

I haven't had the need to do it yet, but one way to go might be taking the tanks off and put some kerosene or denatured alcohol in the tank and "wash" it out several times until you can get it to come out clean. As that will dissolve any oil and residue in the tanks, not the rust flakes but at least the oily gunk. After that it might be a good idea, as long as your tanks are in good enough shape for it, to go to a motorcycle shop and get the stuff people coat fuel tanks with. I think it's called "creem" or something like that. It's a 3 part process. The first part is like an acid wash that will remove the rusty scale (I would buy extra of this stuff and do it more than once if they were my tanks). The next step is a neutralizer for the acid bath. And finally a coating for the inside of the tank. I figure if it works on motorcycle gas tanks, an air tank should be just fine????? Just my

 

[Stan Leschert]

The best solution that I have found, and we are currently using on our fleet, is to remote the drain plug to the frame rail. Heavily protect the air hoses. The install STD ball cock type valve. Most of our drivers just won't take the time to keep pulling on the release cord. They do not have a problem with flipping the valve and walking away. The sound of air escaping in the morning and the lack of air ride suspension quickly reminds even the dumbest of drivers of their error! I know that they are supposed to be professional, but a CDL only proves that you passed the test.....ONCE!

 

[cranetruck]

My 8x8 came from factory with "pull type" drains, which still work great (2530-00-045-3539).
If you install an alcohol vaporizer (also factory install on this '69 vehicle), some alcohol will collect in the tank(s) and help keep the valves from freezing.
Using a Tee to drain more than one tank at a time may create unwanted air flow, since check valves may or may not be in place between them. The three separate tanks on the 8x8 are separated with check valves...also part of the deep water fording kit for the deuce.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

February 2nd, 2010.

The comment up above about cutting the tank end off and cleaning the tank is interesting, but I would want a pressure vessel certified welder doing the work, because the energy stored in these tanks under pressure could cause a significant problem if the weld failed.... The tanks should probably be taken down every year or so and be hydrostated to check for impending failures... I don't know how or when the Army last chjecked my truck's tanks, but likely it wasn't after the last rebuilding in 1989/1990.
If these tanks begin to fail, as they likely will be doing shortly due to age, we might want to work up a supplier who could provide us with stainless steel replacements, matt blasted on the outside so they could be primed and painted?

Just a thought,

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[67X]

This is true..as saddamsnightmare said I would recommend that you at minimum be a capable welder..my last job was welding Jumbo Pressure Vessles for Chart Industries. Welds pass 100% X-ray Stainless Steel, 9% Nickle and Carbon Steel. Vessles ranging from 6,000 gallon up to 86,000 gal. tanks. So this is like a cute miniature to me. Hardest part would be finding SS heads. How thick are these tanks anyways?

Adam