• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Excessive Run Temp HMMWV

Blizken

Member
35
24
8
Location
Nevada
I've read all the threads I think regarding this super common problem of having the HMMWV run hot.

06 HMMWV 6.5
Aftermarket radiator and tank (pics) were installed less than 500 miles ago.

Problem
Runs from cold start to 240 or just below. 240 and 240 plus under driving load. At between 220-240 fan engages momentarily, runs for a bit and then disengages.
Idle engine temp around 220-240.

When I unplug the TDS (full time fan engaged) , settles to around 190ish.

To date I have:
Removed thermostat. Bench test=faulty. Running temporarily with no thermostat.
Disconnected Cad Valve-Fan engages. Cad valve Ohms test 91 both ways.
Disconnect TDS-Fan engages.
Disconnected Thermostatic Switch-Fan engages. Also just replaced this switch with OEM "black" version.
Added 2 bottles water wetter
Confirm fan is proper direction for serpentine.



Things I have not done yet but will be doing next:
Change oil.
Flush radiator.
Add distilled water 80% and Water Wetter. 20% Antifreeze. (I live in the Mojave).
Replace Cadillac Valve.
Replace TDS
Replace Temp sending unit to gauge with OEM.
Replace temp gauge with Clark Brothers.

Questions for the Brain Trust:
1. Can the water pump be bad? The upper radiator hose is never hard-I can squeeze it and bring both sides to touch but it's very hot and I am pretty sure I can feel fluids going through it. I do not know how to test a water pump.
2. Other than unplugging the TDS permanently, which will solve this problem-can the TDS or Cad Valve be coaxed etc into bringing the fan on earlier?
3. Am I right in assuming the thermostatic fan switch tells the fan systems to come on? If so-since I just replaced this than there is nothing else i can do with that right?

Any other ideas you have would be appreciated.

I should note that I am replacing the temp sending unit and temp gauge just in case it makes different readings than what I presently get. If by some miracle the temp readings are way lower -then this is all for nought.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Cheers.
 

Attachments

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,091
1,985
113
Location
WOBURN. MA.
Mine runs between 220 to 235. Just the way these things are. I would love to get her down to 190 but oh well. If the water pump is spinning and no outside leaks then more than likely it's fine.. wish someone came out with a lower temp probe switch..

Mark
 

Blizken

Member
35
24
8
Location
Nevada
Mine runs between 220 to 235. Just the way these things are. I would love to get her down to 190 but oh well. If the water pump is spinning and no outside leaks then more than likely it's fine.. wish someone came out with a lower temp probe switch..

Mark
Noted. It's nice to know about the common baseline. After I finish everything then I am just going to accept the results. As long as I'm not alone with this-thats cool.
 

Gcelevator

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
503
716
93
Location
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA
I am coming to the conclusion that its all fine. They just run hot. I put the IR on it and got 212 at the water pump-thermostat head.
Try different spots, like the reservoir tank, top of the radiator close to the hoses, thermostat housing, heads. I even tested the oil pan and transmission.

All will be fine.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks