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Exciting Deuce Update!

jrnekos

New member
6
1
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Location
Stone Ridge, New York
A few months back I posted some questions regarding fixing the deuce that I had purchased. I figured it was time for a nice update post. This post might be a little long due to a few questions I have and a lot has happened since my previous post!

First off, I got the old girl smokin again! Yee Haw! In addition, I was able to take it for a short little drive around the farm tonight! First drive in months. I was having a lot of fuel issues so here is a recap of what I have done so far -

- New in tank fuel pump
- Cleaned all fuel lines
- New primary, secondary and final fuel filters
- FDC Bypass (mine was still hooked up!)
- Deleted the flame heater (still on the truck, but fuel lines blocked off)
- Removed fuel booster pump from IP, fully rebuilt it (This was a pain to get off, I have some tips if anyone needs help)
- Set of new batteries

After doing all of that and bleeding the fuel system, I was able to get it started pretty easy!

However, I have noticed a few issues / developed a few questions and I was hoping maybe someone could point me in the right direction. I am sure I could find some of the answers around here but since I am making an update post, I figured why not ask anyway. Hope you guys don't mind!

1. Oil Pressure - About 5 seconds after starting, it will be at 30psi. After letting it warm up for about 10 mins, I took it for a little drive and noticed at idle it would be around one hash mark from 0 on the gauge (about 10psi I'm guessing?) Just seemed a bit lower than it should be. Any ideas about this? This does lead me into #2

2. Tach and Temp gauges not working (maybe the oil pressure gauge is not accurate either) - for some reason the cable for the tach just does not exist on my truck, I will have to order a new one. For the temp gauge however, I checked all connections and removed it to clean up the grounds with no success. Anything else I should try? -or- order up a new temp gauge as well?

3. Brakes..? - After the truck was sitting for a few months, all the brake fluid was gone (bone dry reservoir.) I filled it back up and after sitting for about a month, it was at the exact same level (no loss of fluid.) Any clue what could cause this?

4. Clutch - My clutch engages right at the top of the pedal movement, could this be restricting the clutch from engaging entirely? I am assuming you can adjust that with the linkages but I am just curious if my clutch is slipping by itself or if the linkage isn't adjusted correct causing it to slip. I have multiple cars that are standard transmission, but the deuce is the only truck. Maybe I am just not use to how it feels?

The next few questions are a bit interesting, I am not entirely sure the direction to head with them.

4. Exhaust throwing sparks? - On my little drive tonight, I noticed towards the end that the exhaust was throwing out sparks on deceleration. I did bypass the FDC and I feel like I remember reading somewhere that you need to adjust the fuel after doing that? I have not adjusted the fuel just yet (this was the first little drive after getting it running) so perhaps that is a contributing factor?

5. Fluid after test drive - After doing my little test drive and parking the truck, I got out to check for leaks and sure enough there was a pretty significant one. At first I thought it was coolant but upon inspection I believe it was coming from the steering box - specifically the end of it. It was a bit dark so I won't say 100% but that is what I could observe. Any clues here? I will be checking it again in the morning but just wondering if anyone else has had this happen.

Lastly -

6. Strange knocking - I noticed on the test drive a pretty loud and obvious knocking noise coming from directly under the cab but ONLY when in first gear (both high and low.) It did not change with steering angle, but it did change slightly depending on how fast I was going in first gear. I really have no ideas for this one other than something is chipped or bent for first gear.

Thanks to everyone that stuck through reading all of that, I am sorry it was so long. Any extra information you can give is really appreciated! After all, this is my first deuce so in addition to the manuals, I am trying to gather all the information I can!

Hope everyone is doing well,
Justin R. Nekos
 

HDN

Well-known member
2,112
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Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
I might have the answers for a couple things:

5) Bad steering box seal perhaps. They do contain oil despite not being powered. I don't know if they can be rebuilt or what a replacement costs.

6) I'm guessing a bad 1st gear bearing. My dad's M37 knocked in 3rd gear and it was a bad bearing. A spare B1 transmission fixed that. I have a feeling you'll have to at least drop the transmission.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
NORTH (Canada)
Good for you to get her running again!

I know nothing, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt:

1) The sender on the block and the gauge need to be matched. There is a 60 psi set and a 120 psi set. Mixing sender/gauge causes bad readings. That is one thing to check. Otherwise, if there is oil pressure indicated at idle and the pressure rises as the rpm go up, there is not much to worry about.

2) Very likely the gauges themselves. The dash panel grounds via the corner lock screws, but you likely cleaned that already.

3) Losing brake fluid without a leak can mean it leaks into the cups of a wheel cylinder and does not leak enough to make a mess OR it leaks into the air pack (hydraulic/pneumatic booster).

4) Throwing carbon after a hard ride is not that unusual. It is the "Italian Tuneup". Not sure about actual sparks, though. That is not factory.

5) Agree with HDN. Consider replacing oil with cornhead grease (00 Grease). That is usually enough to prevent leaks. Changing the actual seal is a PITA.
 

fleetmech

Well-known member
200
386
63
Location
Connecticut
I cant say for sure since I didn't see yours specifically, but shooting some glowing lumps of carbon from the stack is not uncommon, especially for the first few runs after layup, or the first hard run after a lots of low load use or idling. Those lumps are why 'spark arrestor' mufflers are a thing.

It definitely sounds like you might have a transmission issue... whats the fluid look like?
 
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