Expedition engine?

[Ronmar]

Well if I were keeping the bed, I think I would find a shelter box, or build my own to fit the full extent of the flatbed. A camper designed for a pickup bed winds up having compromises, being designed for a narrower bed with wheel wells. If it is cold where you are at, you could probably beat a typical campers R value(even an alaskans) fairly easilly…

Good Luck.

 

[flatwerx]

Well if I were keeping the bed, I think I would find a shelter box, or build my own to fit the full extent of the flatbed. A camper designed for a pickup bed winds up having compromises, being designed for a narrower bed with wheel wells. If it is cold where you are at, you could probably beat a typical campers R value(even an alaskans) fairly easilly…

Good Luck.

Thanks @Ronmar . Always appreciate your input.
I like the shelter box, like Neil’s build. I actually really like it. My concern or view on it though is height. The Alaskan, or other pop up campers I’ve seen. allow the lowering of the camper to be the same height or lower than the cab and I really like that for the tighter trails. The other reason I like the 8’ non cabover is it allows for somewhat of a ‘front porch’ in the bed with the camper mounted as far forward as possible. Alaskans are easier to find than a 280 too (from my research at least).
You’re absolutely right on the pickup bed campers having compromises. Having it narrower allows for storage between the camper and bedsides. Lots to think about. Lots of build threads to read.
All of you who have posted here and in this forum in general, your input and experience has been amazing. Thanks again man!

 

[Third From Texas]

Just additional two cents here (more of a ramble)...

My first truck was a M1078 LMTV. Great fun hauling bikinis at Spring Break. But I wanted a habitat (bikinis gotta sleep too, ya know).



My original plan was to slap an ambulance box on the back (with bed removed). I had started the whole "overlander" thing based on an ambo, but fell in love the the LMTV platform. The ambo box was an interesting solution becaused they come prewired, insulated, and roll tested. Beefy little boxes. I snagged a M1082 trailer and figured I'd keep it around for hauling stuff (and it makes a great bikini-watching platform, just as the LMTV bed had been). I went back-and-forth on which would actually get the habitat and which would get the cargo top. I kinda liked the idea of the trailer/camper (keeping the truck stock for hauling and non-overnight adventures. I wasn't realy thinking about jacking up the shelter and parking it. I was leaning towards mating an ambo box onto the M1082.

About that time, an M1079 dropped into my lap and the decision was made. The truck would be camper, the trailer would be for hauling.



The downside for me was that as time went on, a lot of ideas for the back of the truck got shot down because I had to still reach the pintle hitch. My M1082 trailer is very short and short trailers are a pita, IMO. The M1082 has a very short tongue and you can see right away how easy it would be to jackknife and damage the hab (and that w/o and changes to the rear of the truck/hab). Pretty much anything added to the back eliminates the use of a trailer. So no rear expansions, no rear slide out, no rear deck (that can't be folded up).

I also really fell in love with Neil's build and the ability to drop off the hab if the bed were needed for another purpose. If I were to start over from scratch, this is likely how I would go. I'd keep the bed stock and have the shelter on jacks to offload as needed. No trailer in the equation.

But I do carry a LOT of stuff on that trailer. Both camping and for projects. I've gotten so much use out of it that it's hard to imagine not having it (at least with my M1079).

One thing on my to-do list is to add a fold-down rear deck. That way it won't interfere with the trailer operation and I can leave the trailer hooked up when parked (using the side of the deck as entry point for the stairs (opposed to having to drp thew trailer every time I want into the hab).

 

[flatwerx]

Just additional two cents here (more of a ramble)...

My first truck was a M1078 LMTV. Great fun hauling bikinis at Spring Break. But I wanted a habitat (bikinis gotta sleep too, ya know).

View attachment 902955

My original plan was to slap an ambulance box on the back (with bed removed). I had started the whole "overlander" thing based on an ambo, but fell in love the the LMTV platform. The ambo box was an interesting solution becaused they come prewired, insulated, and roll tested. Beefy little boxes. I snagged a M1082 trailer and figured I'd keep it around for hauling stuff (and it makes a great bikini-watching platform, just as the LMTV bed had been). I went back-and-forth on which would actually get the habitat and which would get the cargo top. I kinda liked the idea of the trailer/camper (keeping the truck stock for hauling and non-overnight adventures. I wasn't realy thinking about jacking up the shelter and parking it. I was leaning towards mating an ambo box onto the M1082.

About that time, an M1079 dropped into my lap and the decision was made. The truck would be camper, the trailer would be for hauling.

View attachment 902959

The downside for me was that as time went on, a lot of ideas for the back of the truck got shot down because I had to still reach the pintle hitch. My M1082 trailer is very short and short trailers are a pita, IMO. The M1082 has a very short tongue and you can see right away how easy it would be to jackknife and damage the hab (and that w/o and changes to the rear of the truck/hab). Pretty much anything added to the back eliminates the use of a trailer. So no rear expansions, no rear slide out, no rear deck (that can't be folded up).

I also really fell in love with Neil's build and the ability to drop off the hab if the bed were needed for another purpose. If I were to start over from scratch, this is likely how I would go. I'd keep the bed stock and have the shelter on jacks to offload as needed. No trailer in the equation.

But I do carry a LOT of stuff on that trailer. Both camping and for projects. I've gotten so much use out of it that it's hard to imagine not having it (at least with my M1079).

One thing on my to-do list is to add a fold-down rear deck. That way it won't interfere with the trailer operation and I can leave the trailer hooked up when parked (using the side of the deck as entry point for the stairs (opposed to having to drp thew trailer every time I want into the hab).

We’re thinking the same here @Third From Texas on Neil’s build and bikinis
I’ve had multiple off-road trailers and off-road teardrops and I did like dropping them at camp and go explore/wheel or run back in to town if needed. But some of the switchbacks were nuts with a trailer and although I never jackknifed, I don’t want to find out how that feels haha
So many options!
A trailer would be nice for projects and if I’m not mistaken, an S-280 weighs 1400-ish lbs. I didn’t think about keeping the bed and building a habitat on the trailer but now I have something to research tonight. Thanks!
I don’t want an extended habitat or slide outs. The folding rear deck sounds great as I’d like a ‘porch’.
Appreciate the insight and bikinis!

 

[GeneralDisorder]

S280 is smaller than the M1079.

M1079 Van is 8" wider, and 6" longer on the interior.

 

[Ronmar]

Thanks @Ronmar . Always appreciate your input.
I like the shelter box, like Neil’s build. I actually really like it. My concern or view on it though is height. The Alaskan, or other pop up campers I’ve seen. allow the lowering of the camper to be the same height or lower than the cab and I really like that for the tighter trails. The other reason I like the 8’ non cabover is it allows for somewhat of a ‘front porch’ in the bed with the camper mounted as far forward as possible. Alaskans are easier to find than a 280 too (from my research at least).
You’re absolutely right on the pickup bed campers having compromises. Having it narrower allows for storage between the camper and bedsides. Lots to think about. Lots of build threads to read.
All of you who have posted here and in this forum in general, your input and experience has been amazing. Thanks again man!

Height has been one of my biggest concerns. I bought a cab and chassis so am literally building from the frame up...

 

[flatwerx]

Height has been one of my biggest concerns. I bought a cab and chassis so am literally building from the frame up...

View attachment 903032

Nice! Do you have a build thread started?
The 1083 with 3126 I was looking at is cab and chassis. Bed was removed awhile back but I think a 6x6 would be overkill for me.A good looking overkill though hahaha

 

[Ronmar]

Nice! Do you have a build thread started?
The 1083 with 3126 I was looking at is cab and chassis. Bed was removed awhile back but I think a 6x6 would be overkill for me.A good looking overkill though hahaha

No real build thread, just some utube vids(user rronmar) as I go thru the various modifications/alterations to prep the frame for the box build. I am converting the upper frame rail into the floor frame for the habitat and will use captive hydraulics to allow the main frame rail to twist away under that floor frame/habitat structure. This yielded the lightest weight and lowest overall height of any other plan I contemplated. The current overall plan height is 11’-1” above ground. My target was under 11-6, so I may push up the ceiling height(6’-5”) an additional inch or 2 to finish up still under 11-6 overall with solar and guard framework in place.

 

[flatwerx]

S280 is smaller than the M1079.

M1079 Van is 8" wider, and 6" longer on the interior.

If I was gonna go with an M1079, that’s good to know! Little more room in the habitat. The M1079’s weight isn’t crazy like I thought it would be either.

 

[aw113sgte]

No real build thread, just some utube vids(user rronmar) as I go thru the various modifications/alterations to prep the frame for the box build. I am converting the upper frame rail into the floor frame for the habitat and will use captive hydraulics to allow the main frame rail to twist away under that floor frame/habitat structure. This yielded the lightest weight and lowest overall height of any other plan I contemplated. The current overall plan height is 11’-1” above ground. My target was under 11-6, so I may push up the ceiling height(6’-5”) an additional inch or 2 to finish up still under 11-6 overall with solar and guard framework in place.

Any way you could take a picture of this? I'm working on something similar and trying to work out the best path forward. I looked on your YouTube page and didn't see anything that reference this. Funny enough I found out I actually watched some of your videos about 10 years ago on a Kel-Tec RFB

 

[Ronmar]

Any way you could take a picture of this? I'm working on something similar and trying to work out the best path forward. I looked on your YouTube page and didn't see anything that reference this. Funny enough I found out I actually watched some of your videos about 10 years ago on a Kel-Tec RFB

Don’t have anything up for the floor/frame build, as I am just starting on that now(Just cut the last huck bolts this afternoon) so the upper frame is now free of the lower frame. I cut the hucks in the lower holes on the joiner plates(circled in red) and will cover the holes so I can run grease in there where the plates will act as guides to hold the floor frame in line with the truck chassis frame. I am making my hard attach point at the front(thats where the water tanks are going) and will repurpose the suspension compression cylinders at the rear(blue) to allow me to tune the extension response to frame twist using a accumulator chamber tied between the two cylinders.

I repurposed the front lift arch to extend the floor frame about 18”, and it will be welded in place Here very soon that arch will be extended on each end to vehicle width and will be where the tail lights are mounted. Waiting on my first steel order to fab the 1/4”X 30“ 16” OC ribs to form the floor structure. They will taper from 6” to 3” at the outer ends and tie into a 3” band. combined with added ribs across the middle and the rear crane lift box(this was a 1079 chassis, so has the rear lift incorporated into the upper frame rail) should make for a very rigid and well insulated floor structure.

 

[flatwerx]

Don’t have anything up for the floor/frame build, as I am just starting on that now(Just cut the last huck bolts this afternoon) so the upper frame is now free of the lower frame. I cut the hucks in the lower holes on the joiner plates(circled in red) and will cover the holes so I can run grease in there where the plates will act as guides to hold the floor frame in line with the truck chassis frame. I am making my hard attach point at the front(thats where the water tanks are going) and will repurpose the suspension compression cylinders at the rear(blue) to allow me to tune the extension response to frame twist using a accumulator chamber tied between the two cylinders.

I repurposed the front lift arch to extend the floor frame about 18”, and it will be welded in place Here very soon that arch will be extended on each end to vehicle width and will be where the tail lights are mounted. Waiting on my first steel order to fab the 1/4”X 30“ 16” OC ribs to form the floor structure. They will taper from 6” to 3” at the outer ends and tie into a 3” band. combined with added ribs across the middle and the rear crane lift box(this was a 1079 chassis, so has the rear lift incorporated into the upper frame rail) should make for a very rigid and well insulated floor structure.

View attachment 903085

View attachment 903086

View attachment 903087

Looking forward to watching your build @Ronmar

 

[hike]

Height has been one of my biggest concerns. I bought a cab and chassis so am literally building from the frame up...

View attachment 903032

@Ronmar: always thoughtful. Your drawings are very interesting, though this may not be the best thread to learn more? For example, your redesigned air intake, relocated dipsticks and coolant reservoir, and over cab airdam. Is there another were we all can share your insights and developing plans?

 

[Ronmar]

@Ronmar: always thoughtful. Your drawings are very interesting, though this may not be the best thread to learn more? For example, your redesigned air intake, relocated dipsticks and coolant reservoir, and over cab airdam. Is there another were we all can share your insights and developing plans?

If you search using my user name, you should see the threads I have started. Not all that many that I can recall, and they were mostly questions. I have covered most of the modifications I have done over on utube under user name Rronmar And will continue to do so. I hadn‘t really thought of starting a discussion here… Hmmm…

 

[Blairg]

Best picture I have on this computer of the truck. Hard to tell but the spare wheel will go in the usual place. Personally like the idea of the analog 3116 for the simplicity. In the future will look for the 290 upgrade and an exhaust brake.
Obviously i removed the bed and installed the Shot box. I too looked at the Ambulance box option but decided against it since the re-configuring of aluminum structures is more difficult than all steel box was an easier option. Easier to modify. Frame rails were the same so that was easy. Moved a couple of boxes to accommodate different tire location and removed a section over the transmission and installed a dog house over it. My goal was for the lowest profile camper and compact truck i could have that i can stand up (I am 6'2") in and have a queen bed. 2500lb bed removed and about 4000lb box added.
Still a bunch of work to go but progress is being made.
Blair

 

[GeneralDisorder]

If I was gonna go with an M1079, that’s good to know! Little more room in the habitat. The M1079’s weight isn’t crazy like I thought it would be either.

Mine is 20,950 lbs with me and the dog.