Extended Brake Lines for 2in Lift??

[LT67]

Since the M1008 is going to need new springs, I'm considering a 2in lift to go with the 35in KM2's on 16x8(4in backspacing). Will I need extended brake lines?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

You can buy 2wd front brake lines for quite cheap at any parts store. They're a few inches longer than the 4wd ones. There is a metal bracket you'll have to remove but it's just bent around the line.

 

[The FLU farm]

Not knowing if your current hoses are the OE length, the best may be to support the vehicle's frame on jack stands, letting the axle droop.
Measure the available slack, then add a few inches for articulation. Is there enough length left for an additional two inches?

 

[Awol]

I have a 4" lift, and bought new brake hoses right off rockauto. They're for a stock height truck, but they fit like an extended hose would.

I would change them regardless. They're cheap enough, and brakes aren't something to cheap out on.

 

[Drock]

I did a 2-1/2" lift and found the stock lines to be too tight for comfort when fully articulated.

 

[ken]

You can use a piece of angle iron bolted to the bottom of the frame. Drill a hole "I can't rember the size" for the brake line to go through. You then run the line through this drop bracket instead of the original hole in the frame. These little drop brackets used to come in the lift kits back in the 80's and 90's. For the rear axle. Take a hammer and smack the bracket to bend it down a bit to give you more slack. You can also make a bracket using angle iron that bolts to the diff cover and the brake tee. The lines going down the axle tube will bend up to meet your bracket.

 

[Chaski]

Kinda depends on what shock length you choose since that will change your droop

 

[blueblaze]

I have a 2 1/2" full skyjacker kit and the stock brake lines were plenty long. The easiest thing to do with the front ones is actually give them a few light taps with a hammer where the steel part of the flex line is at the caliper, to bend the line up a bit, not to an extreme. No one can tell I did it to mine and it gives a lot more slack. Although I still use my front sway bar, so if you run without it, you might have issues. The rear line is plenty long enough. Also a side note to get a better pedal after lifting your M1008, get rid of the rear load sensing brake valve on the frame rail. By lifting the truck the valve assumes you have less load and therefore gives less brake pressure to the rear cylinders. I've done it on every K30 truck I've owned and it really makes the pedal firmer, plus its just one less thing to leak fluid and give you trouble later on. GM even has a bulletin on removing it for a reason like this. cheers.

 

[The FLU farm]

I have a 2 1/2" full skyjacker kit and the stock brake lines were plenty long. The easiest thing to do with the front ones is actually give them a few light taps with a hammer where the steel part of the flex line is at the caliper, to bend the line up a bit, not to an extreme. No one can tell I did it to mine and it gives a lot more slack. Although I still use my front sway bar, so if you run without it, you might have issues. The rear line is plenty long enough. Also a side note to get a better pedal after lifting your M1008, get rid of the rear load sensing brake valve on the frame rail. By lifting the truck the valve assumes you have less load and therefore gives less brake pressure to the rear cylinders. I've done it on every K30 truck I've owned and it really makes the pedal firmer, plus its just one less thing to leak fluid and give you trouble later on. GM even has a bulletin on removing it for a reason like this. cheers.

Or simply extend the actuating link accordingly.

 

[Drock]

If you really want a firmer more responsive pedal feel. Just do it right, swap the rubber lines out for ORD extended braided lines like I did. Much better quality then the stock rubber lines and you don't have to worry about them getting snagged or cut. Plus they'll probably outlast the truck

 

[Ilikemtb999]

If you really want a firmer more responsive pedal feel. Just do it right, swap the rubber lines out for ORD extended braided lines like I did. Much better quality then the stock rubber lines and you don't have to worry about them getting snagged or cut. Plus they'll probably outlast the truck

Theres still teflon lines inside of them that will crack and ultimately fail. The ORD ones are at least coated so less likely to get full of dirt/sand and ruin the teflon line.

 

[The FLU farm]

If you really want a firmer more responsive pedal feel. Just do it right, swap the rubber lines out for ORD extended braided lines like I did. Much better quality then the stock rubber lines and you don't have to worry about them getting snagged or cut. Plus they'll probably outlast the truck

While the braided hoses do help pedal feel, I have had them rip apart. And get kinked. On the other hand, despite getting small logs wedged in rubber brake hoses, I haven't had one break yet.
In other words, I like the braided hoses, but think we should give the old tried and true rubber hoses some slack. No pun intended.

 

[LT67]

I have a 2 1/2" full skyjacker kit and the stock brake lines were plenty long. The easiest thing to do with the front ones is actually give them a few light taps with a hammer where the steel part of the flex line is at the caliper, to bend the line up a bit, not to an extreme. No one can tell I did it to mine and it gives a lot more slack. Although I still use my front sway bar, so if you run without it, you might have issues. The rear line is plenty long enough. Also a side note to get a better pedal after lifting your M1008, get rid of the rear load sensing brake valve on the frame rail. By lifting the truck the valve assumes you have less load and therefore gives less brake pressure to the rear cylinders. I've done it on every K30 truck I've owned and it really makes the pedal firmer, plus its just one less thing to leak fluid and give you trouble later on. GM even has a bulletin on removing it for a reason like this. cheers.

Didn't realize this thread was still going... lol

Completely off subject, how's your Skyjacker lift ride? Stiff or pliable?