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Exterior Latex/Acrylic House Paints

TacticalDoc

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Otisville MI
Personally, I'd really hesitate to do this. Leaving aside the value of canvas, I'd expect anything to eventually look bad because canvas will pass moisture from the inside which vinyl doesn't. Paint doesn't like moisture from behind. I'd think that was especially true in more humid climates.

I'd probably sell the canvas (NO!!!!) or otherwise get vinyl in the color I wanted or a used one and give the paint a try.


so if I spray paint the canvas with a light coat you think it would ruin it because moisture would settle between the paint and canvas?
 

RAYZER

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sanford/florida
so if I spray paint the canvas with a light coat you think it would ruin it because moisture would settle between the paint and canvas?
Are we speaking of canvas or vinal? I agree that canvas might be a issue,but vinal can be painted,vinal covers come painted camouflage from the manufacture.
 

SteveKuhn

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My theory goes like this. Trapping moisture anywhere is very bad.

Paint dries on outside and seals the outer surface. Canvas wicks or permits passage of ambient moisture from behind/inside as far as the paint layer. Paint on outside traps it there. Paint can peel; canvas mildews or rots 'cause it can't breathe normally.

Just the theory behind my reservations.

Steve
 

SPCWarning

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How 'bout if you apply scotchguard to the back side (inside) before painting the outside? That won't let moisture go thru the back side. I know scotchguard works to keep moisture out, used it on an old Coleman popup camper (canvas). It never leaked. Granted, the canvas on the camper when not in use was stowed away inside and it wasn't exposed to sunlight/rain for more than a week at a time. Any thoughts?

Jimmy

Jimmy
 

Rellim4560

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Stevekuhn, I love the color of the deuce you painted. Does anyone have any ideas on the behr color code for that brownish green. I haven't been able to find one. I found tons for the forest green or lighter od green but nothing on that one.:deadhorse:

My bad I found my answer after more searching
 
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Rellim4560

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"...I would like to find the formula for Vietnam Era semi gloss OD 24087...QUARKZ"

Here's a Benjamin Moore formula:
P29-4B (acrylic) gallon (for alkyd use P24-4B) both semi gloss
OY 6X5
RX 22
BK 7X1



After all this playing around to get a good acrylic substitute, I considered what would go in to making the acrylic work as my schedule permits (panel at a time, 1 - 2 hour sessions working around the truck from prep to paint). I decided that the spray cans were the only choice. Prep, prime, spray a section in one short session then pick up and move on from there next session. I wanted the semi from spray, not the satin from rolling - only because I wanted to be that much closer to original for "



I will be heading by Ben Moore this week to try this formula out. Did you spray it with a paint gun or get them to load the paint into rattle cans for you?
 

SteveKuhn

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Benjamin Moore Acrylic

"...I will be heading by Ben Moore this week to try this formula out. Did you spray it with a paint gun or get them to load the paint into rattle cans for you?...Rellim4560"

I should have been more clear. On the Deuce, I used all the BM w/ brush or fine foam roller on troop seats, wheels, suspension. I used the Gillespie spray cans on the sheet metal - body & bed.

My M105 was just finished on Monday with the acrylic by the shop after a sand blast 'n paint. It was their 1st time w/ the paint. They used HVLP, thinned slightly w/ water (not enough). It came out a tad CARC-ish in texture because it was just too fast and drying between nozzle and surface.

Had they shot some scrap, found the problem and contacted me with what they had run into, I would have had them thin it a bit more and use Floetrol generously which I believe would have solved the problem by slowing it and flowing it.

The outcome is still fine with me because I really paid economically for a blast 'n prime and ended up w/ 'OK from 8 feet' in the proper color. Come good weather, a quick steel wooling to smooth things out and repaint will be the finish coat.

In the pictures ignore the bronze tone. It's partially my camera and your monitor, partially uncured color. You'll notice that the finish on the rims and undercarriage is fine. I intentionally shot that tailgate angle to capture the problem.

Steve
 

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indy4x4fab

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Location
indy, indiana
"...I would like to find the formula for Vietnam Era semi gloss OD 24087...QUARKZ"

Here's a Benjamin Moore formula:
P29-4B (acrylic) gallon (for alkyd use P24-4B) both semi gloss
OY 6X5
RX 22
BK 7X1



After all this playing around to get a good acrylic substitute, I considered what would go in to making the acrylic work as my schedule permits (panel at a time, 1 - 2 hour sessions working around the truck from prep to paint). I decided that the spray cans were the only choice. Prep, prime, spray a section in one short session then pick up and move on from there next session. I wanted the semi from spray, not the satin from rolling - only because I wanted to be that much closer to original for "



I will be heading by Ben Moore this week to try this formula out. Did you spray it with a paint gun or get them to load the paint into rattle cans for you?
What paint did you use? valspar, bear?
 

SteveKuhn

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I think the question is for me. Only Gillespie and Ben Moore Industrial.

My M105 in the post above is the BM Industrial Acrylic and is from 2 new gallons mixed from the formula. The only downside was the guy spraying who under-mixed it so that it dried between gun nozzle and surface, hence a CARC like texture. I'm going to fix that back to smooth semigloss after the weather breaks. The wheel shows the proper texture but the colors between camera and monitor are off.

I'm thrilled with the color match up against the Gillespie. I've had several guys who couldn't see the difference until I pointed out which paint was on which surface and they stared at it a bit. My BM formula is actually closer than the Gillespie to some of the original OD that was visible on the fuel tank and inner door frames.

The biggest difference isn't really the color but the way the 3 different paints reflect light. At some angles, the color is indistinguishable because all 3 reflect the same. That was in my 1st post on this and is why I insisted on taking the comparison outside into daylight - sun and shade.

All that said, if you get some mixed, try it on some test metal and be sure you're satisfied before you cover the truck with it.

Steve
 

Rellim4560

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Tallahassee, Florida
I also used Steve's formula at Ben Moore and picked up a couple gallons of the DTM super spec industrial but haven't had a chance to blast the truck yet. I will post some before and after when I get her done.
 

Scrounge41

Member
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Location
St. Augustine, Fl
Just got back from Home Depot where I was gonna get samples of Carc made up. I don't know if the girl who helped me knows what she is talking about, but she said the formulas that I brought in from the paint can pics earlier in this thread couldn't be matched because they had changed their colorants. The underside of my truck's paint isn't faded, so I think I'll pull off the mud flap support and take it to Sherwin Williams for a color match. I'm not as picky about the brown and black, but if someone has an SW formula for them that would be cool.
 

Vintage iron

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Falmouth Ma.
Sherwin Williams makes Carc! Go to the industrial coating and they will have it. You will need to have a business to purchase it at some locations!
 

rlwm211

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Guilford, NY
I think the origins of this thread were along the lines of avoiding the nasty chemicals of the CARC as well as the excessive cost.

I looked into CARC and could get the product but being a cheap soul, I tried another route and am very pleased with the results.

I have painted my m35 twice and a bunch of other equipment for about $60 of paint. I seriously doubt you can do the same with CARC no matter who makes it.

This is just my opinion and you are more than welcome to proceed in any direction you choose and with my blessings and best wishes I might add.
 
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Scrounge41

Member
167
1
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Location
St. Augustine, Fl
I do have a business account with Sherwin Williams and do use products from their industrial line, but I'm also liking the benefits the acrylic paint crowd is talking about. I much prefer SW over Behr and since the color formulas on this thread won't work evidently at my Home Depot, I'm gonna give it at shot at Sherwin Williams. I'll check on the Carc availability and cost, and compare that with the acrylic. I'll report back.
 
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