Exterior Latex/Acrylic House Paints

[HASSON1911]

Subscribed, got a 923 to do this spring think I will go with Mike/wsucogarsx formula 383 CARC

 

[3rdaavbn]

Imho, any paint will stick to CARC. If the CARC is in good shape but faded you would be fine with latex. If you are sanding down rust or down to bare steel you need a red oxide primer, then top coat with what ever you want, but Kilz is not an exterior product.

 

[sniperboy]

For those of us that have the M923 5ton's I have a color that matches the MARPAT Green. I used it this weekend to paint some ramps I made. I also used it on the inside of the rear tailgate. It matches my paint color perfect. Here is the Home Depot recipe:

BEHR Base 4300
CLANT AXE BL DL KXL LL
OZ 0 0 0 0 1
384th 187 77 80 225 248

 

[MWMULES]

Finished up another paint project, mobilizer was not repainted just the 280 box.Same wally world paint as the duce.

 

[plym49]

Gentleman, I have a question about painting an OT vehicle. I've got a Chevy APV (plastic body) stashed away with Stabil in the tank and a solar trickle charger. The body has no rust (obviously) and no dents, but the factory clear is worn through or peeling off in several places. I'd like to give this a camo paint job. Would prefer not to DA the entire vehicle - would a self-etching primer provide enough tooth for a Behr (or whatever) topcoat?

Paint flexibility is important because the plastic panels flex. I'm guessing that house paint would perform well in this regard. Or, should I use something intended for vinyl siding? The vehicle lives safely inside, so weathering is not a problem.

 

[twlinks]

My opinion would be that "yes, you will need to sand down the entire body", unless you want it to peel again. Think of it this way...if the clear is peeling in some places, it will eventually peel everywhere...it all came out of the same can and it's all exposed to the same elements. If you cut corners, you usually suffer from it. If you took a civi truck or car to a body shop because it was peeling in places, wouldn't you expect them to sand the whole vehicle before priming and painting? Also, I think the self-etching primer is designed specifically for metal. That may not mean that it won't work on plastic too, but most rattle cans indicate what they are intended for. It is going to be a lot of work regardless of what you do so you may as well do it right the first time. The latex house paint should give you the elasticity that you are talking about to a degree but if you really want something that will "stretch", use Elastomeric which is a latex coating that can be tinted to color of choice (make sure you get the smooth and not the textured unless you want a bed liner finish). It is pretty thick and tricky to spray but you can brush or roll it on with foam rollers just fine. Good luck and don't forget the pics.

 

[215Dave]

100% concur with previous post.

Yesterday I went to Home Depot and bought the $3 samples of green brown and black by reference of Federal Standard numbers. I hear great things about the paint. I'm still on the fence though about giving my truck a full dip with the house paint. My biggest gripe is sheen/ luster ..... Whatever you choose to call it. I just can't seem to find a substitute for CARC that is one, truly flat and two, a close color match.... I'd choose truly flat over 100% exact color match because I feel the shine is more of a give away that its not original paint than a shade off problem.... Can anyone really vouch for a luster less paint choice?

 

[SteveKuhn]

Flatness comes with curing. It'll be flatter in 6 months than today. Also, texture counts. Part of the reason CARC looks so flat is because it's rough. That can be attained in the spraying (see the Behr post on the M35 back aways). You'll also find photos of my M105 sprayed with semigloss that dried between spray head and surface. It's rough and quite dead for semi. You can also get texture by rolling very dry, little pressure, with the tiny textured foam rollers so that the paint gets pulled into peaks and sets that way.

Try it with your samples.

Steve

 

[215Dave]

Yeah. I think some of my past little paint jobs I was a bit heavy handed. No runs, but prob could've laid out some dryer coats to finish up after getting good coverage. I know the texture aids in the "flattening effect". I need more patience Thanks Steve. It was good meeting you at Sussex. May not remember me, but my buddy Chris and I were looking I believe for small gen set TMs

 

[SteveKuhn]

I always remember people who want what I don't have The trick will be remembering the face at Gilbert. I hate getting senile.

I'm thinking of selling badges on lanyards to SS-ers with avatars and screen names at shows.

Steve

 

[SCSG-G4]

Which one of Gimpy's seven thousand avatars will you use for him?

 

[SteveKuhn]

Good point.

Steve

 

[plym49]

My opinion would be that "yes, you will need to sand down the entire body", unless you want it to peel again. Think of it this way...if the clear is peeling in some places, it will eventually peel everywhere...it all came out of the same can and it's all exposed to the same elements. If you cut corners, you usually suffer from it. If you took a civi truck or car to a body shop because it was peeling in places, wouldn't you expect them to sand the whole vehicle before priming and painting? Also, I think the self-etching primer is designed specifically for metal. That may not mean that it won't work on plastic too, but most rattle cans indicate what they are intended for. It is going to be a lot of work regardless of what you do so you may as well do it right the first time. The latex house paint should give you the elasticity that you are talking about to a degree but if you really want something that will "stretch", use Elastomeric which is a latex coating that can be tinted to color of choice (make sure you get the smooth and not the textured unless you want a bed liner finish). It is pretty thick and tricky to spray but you can brush or roll it on with foam rollers just fine. Good luck and don't forget the pics.

Thanks for the reply. I should have been more clear with the description of the existing paint. It is only peeling in a strip on the top of the front bumper. That area I would sand. Everywhere else is just the normal GM-clear-coat-weathers-off that is usually seen on vehicles from the 80s and 90s.

I have no problem 220 wet sanding spot areas but the job is not worth it to me to sand the entire vehicle. Yes, it will be a short cut and I am OK with that. Again, this vehicle sits in a garage for a rainy day.

If self-etching primer is not the correct product to promot adhesion, I wonder is something like Krylon Fusion would work. Will it 'grab' paint like it grabs bare plastic?

Thanks, too, for the Elastomeric suggestion - I am not familiar with that product. WIll look into it.

 

[plym49]

My opinion would be that "yes, you will need to sand down the entire body", unless you want it to peel again. Think of it this way...if the clear is peeling in some places, it will eventually peel everywhere...it all came out of the same can and it's all exposed to the same elements. If you cut corners, you usually suffer from it. If you took a civi truck or car to a body shop because it was peeling in places, wouldn't you expect them to sand the whole vehicle before priming and painting? Also, I think the self-etching primer is designed specifically for metal. That may not mean that it won't work on plastic too, but most rattle cans indicate what they are intended for. It is going to be a lot of work regardless of what you do so you may as well do it right the first time. The latex house paint should give you the elasticity that you are talking about to a degree but if you really want something that will "stretch", use Elastomeric which is a latex coating that can be tinted to color of choice (make sure you get the smooth and not the textured unless you want a bed liner finish). It is pretty thick and tricky to spray but you can brush or roll it on with foam rollers just fine. Good luck and don't forget the pics.

Thanks for the reply. I should have been more clear with the description of the existing paint. It is only peeling in a strip on the top of the front bumper. That area I would sand. Everywhere else is just the normal GM-clear-coat-weathers-off that is usually seen on vehicles from the 80s and 90s.

I have no problem 220 wet sanding spot areas but the job is not worth it to me to sand the entire vehicle. Yes, it will be a short cut and I am OK with that. Again, this vehicle sits in a garage for a rainy day.

If self-etching primer is not the correct product to promot adhesion, I wonder is something like Krylon Fusion would work. Will it 'grab' paint like it grabs bare plastic?

Thanks, too, for the Elastomeric suggestion - I am not familiar with that product. WIll look into it.

 

[twlinks]

Thanks for the reply. I should have been more clear with the description of the existing paint. It is only peeling in a strip on the top of the front bumper. That area I would sand. Everywhere else is just the normal GM-clear-coat-weathers-off that is usually seen on vehicles from the 80s and 90s.

I have no problem 220 wet sanding spot areas but the job is not worth it to me to sand the entire vehicle. Yes, it will be a short cut and I am OK with that. Again, this vehicle sits in a garage for a rainy day.

If self-etching primer is not the correct product to promot adhesion, I wonder is something like Krylon Fusion would work. Will it 'grab' paint like it grabs bare plastic?

Thanks, too, for the Elastomeric suggestion - I am not familiar with that product. WIll look into it.

Well, you will get back what you put into it. Even if it isn't peeling anywhere else, at the very least, you need to go over the entire body with sandpaper (not wet/dry). Something like 220 to "scuff" it. You could paint it without doing anything and it might look good right then, but it wouldn't last. The whole deal with painting is preparation...kind of like the cliché "pay me now or pay me later"..."sand me now or sand me later".

 

[plym49]

I hear you. What is somehat annoying is that if you accidentally splash paint, it stays forever but if you want it to stick......

It's happened to me. I once accidentally spilled some paint right onto a dirty, greasy, not-at-all-prepared-for-paint floor. Years later that paint is still there. But if I had spent thousands to clean and scrape and etch the floor for paint, by now it could have been bubbling and peeling.

 

[Keith_J]

Well, you will get back what you put into it. Even if it isn't peeling anywhere else, at the very least, you need to go over the entire body with sandpaper (not wet/dry). Something like 220 to "scuff" it. You could paint it without doing anything and it might look good right then, but it wouldn't last. The whole deal with painting is preparation...kind of like the cliché "pay me now or pay me later"..."sand me now or sand me later".

That is the most painful part of refinishing. Hopefully the guy I am helping will see this and realize I am not kidding about the sanding every surface. His truck had been plastic media blasted inside and out, the paint that was applied peeled and chipped so I mandated 100% removal outside, then etch with phosphoric acid and pressure wash or sanding to make the primer stick.

The first coat looks great, seemed to go on brighter green but toned down on drying to proper 383 green. We color matched from a NOS antenna brush guard. I'll have to check the color formula. Behr 4300 with primer over Rustoleum red primer. I did an adhesion check with hot melt glue studs to pull some minor dents, the primer didn't peel but the dents pulled perfectly.

 

[twlinks]

I did an adhesion check with hot melt glue studs to pull some minor dents, the primer didn't peel but the dents pulled perfectly.

I must be missing something here. You pulled dents out "AFTER" it was painted?

 

[Triple C]

Subscribed, this is great info, thanks everyone for posting!!!

 

[weasle50BMG]

WOW it has taken a week for me to read this thread. What a great amount of info and some sweet looking trucks. I am restoring a cj7 and was looking for a military color to paint it. I would have never though about using house paint. I am going to paint it using behr paint with the color FS 24052 USMC semi gloss forest green. Thank you everyone for all the great pics and info. Keep up the great work.