FAQ Thread for CUCV's

[Michael]

May be a dumb question: Can civillians purchase the batteries that the mil. had in the cucv's or should I forget that thought and just buy red tops?

You can buy them, but they aren't worth the expense and don't have much of a warranty. The battery tray in a CUCV is designed for 6TL or group 31 batteries.

 

[Michael]

Could it be possible to wire this to a switch on the dash so you flip it on to crank then flip it off to not burn anything up?

You probably could, but it would have to be heavy duty because of the load.

This is directed to all of the new guys, not just Alredneck. You should be asking these questions in new threads, not in this one. This thread is meant to be answers to FAQs.

 

[mrfunk76]

Take out the dash for good there's one stop a cd player will fit you will need to a little fab work to mount it

 

[Mudstone]

Umm, why create a new thread when we can keep all the questions in one thread especially if it relates to a previous FAQ, that way it does not become a new FAQ and waste such space in other areas!

Its more convenient to look up info in one thread with a bunch of posts ( all with relating material ) than it is to search through countless threads, with countless post.

By the way thanks for the info!

Because we have a search function and most all of these questions are answered in specific existing threads... This FAQ is for posting ANSWERS to Frequently Asked Questions. It's turning into a mess of information that is impossible to navigate. Thus producing nothing useful.

 

[akonitony]

I just had a nice surprise from my favorite M1008. I thought only the M1028 and M1031 came with the limited slip diff in the D60 front axle, but when I started the latest mod on my M1008, which is a lift using 52" M1009 rear springs in the front, I found out different. While I am sure there are many of you out there who already know this, I just figured I would type away a little because of the nice-find endorphins currently pulsing through my veins. I had already removed and rebuilt a D60F from my one and only M1031, which is a donor-mobile, thinking I would be doing much better with all wheel drive on the 1008.
Lo and behold, when I went to drain the front axle on the M1008, I recognized the carrier as the same exact one in the M1031 axle. Wow! My net worth just shot up some $500. While I and my dogs were all very happy to find this, my wife still didn't see the forest through the trees. Anyway, I finally realized how to tell which M1008 trucks have this wonderful-to-look-at-and-delightful-to-hold gizmo in their front axle. While one can look at the GVWR, which is 9600# on this M1008, the helper spring on the top of the rear leafs is also a nice way to tell. The weird thing is, they still have an NP208 TC in the M1008 trucks with the positrac front ends, so as far as I can tell, the helper springs and increased GVWR are the only way to tell. Anyway, that's really all I have to say about that.

PS: Ok, one more thing: There was no tag on the diff cover bolts letting you know it was a posi either. Isn't that wild?

 

[doghead]

Does your vin number contain HD in it?

Like this, 1GCHD34J0HF311237 (should have front locker)

or is it like this, 1GCGD34J2FF439536 (does not usually have front locker)

 

[SmokeyDod]

There's only 1 exception to the 4th digit being a "H" and that applies to the M1010 which has the "H" because of weight but does NOT have the "Trac-Lok" front D60. All others with the "H" came with the "Trac-Lok".

 

[Warthog]

Recovry4x4 found a great article about the wear patterns of the Stanadyne DB-2 Injectory pumps. Thanks.

 

[Michael]

NEW type glow plug relay - Michael's Photos

The bid red wire goes on one big post and the two big orange go on the other.

The small blue is on the top small post and the small pink is on the bottom.

I don't think it makes any difference if you get them backwards since the two small wire energize an electromagnet which closes a connection to connect the two big wires. The above pictures was from a truck as it was released from the military.

In the pictures titled NAPA relay, I have run a large white wire to the 12 volt buss to bypass the voltage step-down resistor.

NAPA glowplug relay - Michael's Photos

 

[Dave Kay]

Do not buy AC13G glow plugs. They are obsolete.

The correct direct replacement plug for the cucv is Wellman 070

I prefer AC60G which is what GM recommends for all civilian 6.2 and 6.5 engines.

I would like to comment on the recommendation for the Wellman gp's; here's photos of a set I just pulled from my newly acquired M1008. This vehicle has only been started twice since I got it and yes--- I've did the gp resistor bypass before I ever started it.

It's a bit difficult for my old eyes to read the numbers but I can see the last digits--- 70. As you can see the five gp's on the bottom of pic are swollen; that's 5-out-of 8. Lousy performance if you ask me.

Anyway, the reason I post this is because on the DieselPage site they recommend nothing but AC-60G's or another brand by Kennedy Diesel. I'm afraid that the old Wellmans' won't ever be put in my rigs again.

Meanwhile, I've replaced these Wellmans' w/AC60G's and after 5 secs of gp-time, this engine now fires-off as soon as I touch the ignition key--- LESS THAN 2 seconds!

 

[ralbelt]

Same thing here Dave, I replaced 1 year old wellman's with AC60G's, resupplied a new ST85 relay with 12V, and just a second or 2 from a dead cold 40 degrees, and she is up and running.

 

[Michael]

I would like to comment on the recommendation for the Wellman gp's; here's photos of a set I just pulled from my newly acquired M1008. This vehicle has only been started twice since I got it and yes--- I've did the gp resistor bypass before I ever started it.

It's a bit difficult for my old eyes to read the numbers but I can see the last digits--- 70. As you can see the five gp's on the bottom of pic are swollen; that's 5-out-of 8. Lousy performance if you ask me.

Anyway, the reason I post this is because on the DieselPage site they recommend nothing but AC-60G's or another brand by Kennedy Diesel. I'm afraid that the old Wellmans' won't ever be put in my rigs again.

Meanwhile, I've replaced these Wellmans' w/AC60G's and after 5 secs of gp-time, this engine now fires-off as soon as I touch the ignition key--- LESS THAN 2 seconds!

I would like to go on record as never recommending the Wellman plugs. My original post was edited by one of the moderators. A couple of us went round and round about the best plug to use and I finally got tired of it and quit posting. I have used AC 60G in both modified and unmodified trucks without problems. I did burn one set out in a truck that the relay was sticking and even then they didn't swell.

 

[CUCV85]

s603 Advance Auto Parts is the same as Napa st80 or st85 and is 1/3 of the cost!

One of the threads above references the NAPA GPR109 glow plug relay. This part is meant for pre-Powerstroke Ford diesels. It is $25 or so while the GPR110 which is very similar costs around $85. We're not sure what the difference is between the two but even the local NAPA couldn't tell me other than to say "$60 more". I used the 109 and so far, so good.

There are two small issues with using the NAPA Ford GPR109 relay, both of which are perfectly fixable.

1. The brackets on the stock relay are of a "north and south" orientation with one on the top and one on the bottom. The 109 has them in a sort of "north and west" orientation. All I did was put the north bracket in the stock hole and then drill a new hole below the stock lower hole to mount the west bracket with. I just couldn't turn it enough to use the stock lower hole without hitting the brake system stuff there to the right of it. Some people have reported they were able to get theirs to line up with the stock holes without trouble but I was unable to do that with mine. Might just be me.

2. The 109's larger studs use different threads than the stock relay's larger studs do. You will have to go out and find new nuts because of this. Minor but it is something to take care of before you're kneeling on the radiator shroud, stretched across the engine cussing.
The two smaller stock studs use the same thread as the 109's smaller studs so their nuts can be reused on the 109.
Note that this is for the original style relay these trucks came with from the factory. I do not know if the updated relay the military used was different.

 

[CUCV85]

The Wellman 070 are for the original 24volts down through the resistors. I use the O70's even after doing a bypass so that only 12volts are going to the 070's. It's Recommended that I use the Wellman 050's now that I have done the Resistors bypass and have true 12 volts going to my Glow Plugs. Don't be to quick to Sheet on the Wellman's because they are an outstanding plug and are much cheaper to buy on line than going to your parts store and paying 12.00 each for the ac 60 G plugs. Honestly keep in mind that once a Resistors bypass is done any plug will work Wellman 070 050 Ac 13 G Ac 60 G depends on what you want to pay there is NO difference in Performance!

I would like to comment on the recommendation for the Wellman gp's; here's photos of a set I just pulled from my newly acquired M1008. This vehicle has only been started twice since I got it and yes--- I've did the gp resistor bypass before I ever started it.

It's a bit difficult for my old eyes to read the numbers but I can see the last digits--- 70. As you can see the five gp's on the bottom of pic are swollen; that's 5-out-of 8. Lousy performance if you ask me.

Anyway, the reason I post this is because on the DieselPage site they recommend nothing but AC-60G's or another brand by Kennedy Diesel. I'm afraid that the old Wellman's' won't ever be put in my rigs again.

Meanwhile, I've replaced these Wellman's' w/AC60G's and after 5 secs of gp-time, this engine now fires-off as soon as I touch the ignition key--- LESS THAN 2 seconds!

 

[Michael]

Honestly keep in mind that once a Resistors bypass is done any plug will work Wellman 070 050 Ac 13 G Ac 60 G depends on what you want to pay there is NO difference in Performance!

It is well documented that the AC 13G plugs swell and can be a real pain to remove. The AC 13G is the original equipment plug that was used when these trucks were new and is what is probably in the TM. You can still buy them but don't, they are obsolete. Autozone has AC 60G plugs for $8.99. I doubt if NAPA is much different.

 

[Warthog]

Please stop posting questions in this thread. It for SOLUTIONS, not questions.

You can find all the GM part numbers you will ever need in the Technical Manual Parts listings.

TM 9-2320-289-20p and TM 9-2320-289-34p

Also read the CUCV Wiki as the alternator part number from NAPA is listed

 

[soule64]

If you decide to do a spin-on fuel filer conversion, you can use a hand operated vacuum pump (the same kind for bleeding brakes) to draw fuel from the tank and through the new element. Just hook the hand pump to the filter's output fitting to the IP and pump it a couple dozen times until you get a clear stream of fuel, then reattach the IP/filter line. It only takes a minute and gets rid of all of the trapped air.

 

[captw]

alternate tire size for M1010

Crash_AF stated in a previous post( 04-21-2008, 14:13) that LT245/75R16 was used as one of two OEM tire sizes used on pickups/ambulances ...I highly!! question that, due to the vast difference in tire size...if these tires were fitted in place of the correct tire size of LT235/85R16, then the speedo gear would have to be changed to provide a correct speedometer reading, if the stock differential gear sets were used...where did that alternate tire info come from??

 

[dstang97]

Wow just got done reading 11 pages of mostly useless info. Can someone clean this thread up? Its real annoying just like this post.


DONE!!!!

 

[hoovertl]

I have 2 M1008 with Death Wobble. Both presently have new Tie rods Drag link and fairly new tires. One has new steering box and I still can't aseem to stop the Shimmy, which seems to occur at about 40mph. Any quick fix, or solutions? Thanks, Phil

I also have an M1008 and it had the "death wobble". I tried everything to get rid of it but it always seemed to come back. Finally replaced all of the shocks and uppgraded to steering stabilizer and it hasn't done it since. Maybe this will help you?