Fermont MEP-804A Dies after releasing start switch.

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

New to this site. This problem may have been addressed before but I need to ask again. Just bought a Fermont MEP-804A generator set. 2003 model with updated tier 2 engine with 950 hours. I put new filters on it and added new fluids. It starts and runs great and produces electricity, but when I release the starter switch it dies.
I have tried the other suggestions I have read in this site. I pushed up the S-7 switch, checked the fuse by the voltage regulator, put grounding rods in and hooked to ground lead. Tried everything I could think of and it still dies when the switch is released.
Any help would be appriceated.

 

[kloppk]

Are there any fault lights lit after you release S1 to Prime/Run and it stalls?

 

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

As soon as I release the start switch it dies and loses all power to the control panel. While running there are no fault lights on. I hold the start switch on until the oil pressure reaches 80 psi.

 

[kloppk]

Where did you check for voltage to verify " loses all power to the control panel. "?

 

[Guyfang]

Where did you check for voltage to verify " loses all power to the control panel. "?

Better said, define, "loses all power to the control panel". Turn the panel lights on, and start the set. Then Release S1. Lights go off?

 

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

Yes panel ligts go off when the start switch is released and engine dies.

 

[Guyfang]

When does the voltage come back on at the control panel?

 

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

Voltage comes on when the generator is started.

 

[kloppk]

What color is the back of the S1 switch? Is is square or round?

Do you have a hand held voltmeter handy?
If so we'll need to take a series of voltage walk to see where you are losing the 24 volts when you release S1.
With the meter set to DC volts and it's negative lead connected to chassis ground checking the voltages at the following points to see if it goes away when you release S1.
1) MT4 both of the large terminals
2) CR1 both terminals
3) S17 both terminals
4) CB1 both terminals
5) S2 Terminal 2

All should have 22 to 28 volts on them at all times.

 

[kloppk]

Be sure you are on CR1. The labelling on that assembly in the back left can be deceiving.

 

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

The back of the S1 switch is square and blue. I will check the voltage as you suggested. Thanks kloppk

 

[Guyfang]

If you can, take pictures of the S1. There should be two jumpers on it also. If one of them is missing, it can give you that fault.

Also, have you ever seen it work right? Or did you buy it this way?

 

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

I just bought it, never saw it run. There are 2 jumpers on S1.

I will not be able to test voltage until tomorrow.

 

[Ray70]

Am I seeing black magic marker on the connectors on the S1 switch?
If so, that's an indication that someone has messed with S1 before. might want to verify the correct connections as well as tight screws on all the connections.
Test the diodes on the switch jumpers as well.

 

[Guyfang]

 

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

I made a mistake there is only one jumper on S1. It is between 1 and 3.

 

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

Testing the terminals 1 and 7 on S1 I must have blown a fuse are something. Now I have no power to panel or starting switch.

 

[kloppk]

CB1 may have tripped

 

[COMEANDTAKEIT]

I push on CB1 and it appears to be pushed in.

 

[kloppk]

Use your meter and check for power at all the points I posted a few posts back.