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Fianlly got my m998 last night !!
- Thread starter fnpurist
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gcbennet
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It's an off the shelf Turbo 400 transmission that's been around since Christ was a corporal, so any transmission shop or auto parts store should have what you need. Same with oil filters. I would recommend draining and thoroughly flushing every fluid on the truck and switching to synthetic. When i flushed my engine block all sorts of disgusting orange/brown water and crud came out. These trucks run hot so the coolant needs every chance it can get to do its job properly. As well, if you're like me and need heat 7 months of the year physically pull the heater box and rig up a couple of hoses so you can flush the crap out. You'll have to knock and bang it around a little to dislodge the chunks of built-up sediment in there.
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I'm no fan of synthetics....just stick with 15w-40 on oil, PH5 oil filter, Dexron 3 for trans,Power steering and TCASE, 80-90 G.O. For Diffs and geared hubs, DOT 5 silicone brake fluid....if you stick with the military way...it's all changed on either Time,hours or miles....so if driven seldom, change once a rear, of driven often, then change say every 3-7k miles..lots of mil trucks do a lot of idling...so an hour meter is not a bad idea.
the flush is a good idea, it's very very common to get casting sand from the block on those old 6.2's. Unless your radiator is new, I would have your radiator removed and flushed at a shop....they need to be rodded to be properly cleaned.
the flush is a good idea, it's very very common to get casting sand from the block on those old 6.2's. Unless your radiator is new, I would have your radiator removed and flushed at a shop....they need to be rodded to be properly cleaned.
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Oh...and don't look for a fuel filter at the local store...they don't exsist. Just buy it from parts supplier.
this is the number one filter to replace IMHO....but don't just dive right into it, it can be a bear and many folks have issues getting the system bled out afterwards...or the truck even started....but it need to be done.
this is the number one filter to replace IMHO....but don't just dive right into it, it can be a bear and many folks have issues getting the system bled out afterwards...or the truck even started....but it need to be done.
KansasBobcat
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Agree with all the above advice. You might want to drain the fuel tank and replace the rubber drain plug. Be careful removing the old one and do not over tighten the new one. If there is a part you cannot find on SS or internet remember many of the H1 parts will work. I had good luck with getting some parts from former Hummer dealer. Don't worry about the AM General label about civilian use!
Dixiedog
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If you get a chance post a picture of your truck, everybody likes pictures!
Enjoy your new hobby!
Enjoy your new hobby!
Dixiedog
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Nice looking truck! Glad you were able to get it!
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How long for your EUC? 6 weeks and waiting here.
trooper632
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Dex 3 for power steering???
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I've heard that it's too thin for some engines.
Plus it's expensive you can change what 3 to 1 times of cost of regular oil.
Plus it's expensive you can change what 3 to 1 times of cost of regular oil.
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ymmv, just my observation from selling parts for 25 years. Fram is the absolute cheapest made oil filter. We had a counter display of a cut up wix, ac delco, and fram. From the paper pleats, seams, oil pressure relief spring etc, they are truly junk. It is a retail store brand for the wal marts etc based on the cheapest price. Very few "real" parts store carry fram and I would say very few professional shops install it.
makes sense. This is probably part of the reason my 01' f250 v10 burns so much oil. Ive been using mobil 1
Dixiedog
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I used to import Unimogs and Pinzgauers back in the 1990s
Any of my customers that made a change to synthetic after those trucks had been on Dino Oil for over 25 years experienced lots of oil leaks. Sometimes going back to Dino Oil stopped the leaks, sometimes not.
Any of my customers that made a change to synthetic after those trucks had been on Dino Oil for over 25 years experienced lots of oil leaks. Sometimes going back to Dino Oil stopped the leaks, sometimes not.
kojo0513
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Fn, seems like we have gotten our humvees around the same time. I just did fluids... Google M998 Lube and it will have some good info. Most of it is already posted above haha. Time to get to work!
I just realized there wasn't a spacer on the bolt that holds the trans filter in place or it somehow got lost when I was changing it. Looks like ill be doing it all over again tomorrow if an auto part store even carries that. Talk about a dumb move on my part. I drove it around my yard once after I finished so hopefully I didn't screw anything up