Rustyshackelford
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Someone earlier in the thread suggested regular painters caulk. How awesome is that?!?!I was waiting for someone to suggest JB Weld
Sadly it would probably work fine.
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Fill drilled holes in m1009 roof
- Thread starter cucvegas
- Start date
- 134
- 15
- 18
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- Battle Ground/WA
From experience with a K-5 Blazer that has two holes in the roof that were filled with Bondo before I bought it. The water gets in and then it creates a bigger problem with rust in structures that you cannot purchase patch panels for, now I need to find a donor vehicle to cut the passenger "B" pillar out of to repair the door jamb. I guess if it were easy, everyone would drive older vehicles............................ do it right and you won't have to re-visit it.
cucvrus
Well-known member
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Lets see a picture of the area you are trying to repair. I may be able to share an idea for repair.
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With the correct structural adhesive, it will be a lifetime repair.
Bell Helicopter has proprietary videos of testing and the adhesive is actually stronger than surrounding metal.
No water infiltration, No corrosion, No ultraviolet degradation, handles any Thermal load short of fire.
Every single aircraft manufactured today uses structural adhesives to some degree.
Most automakers do also.
Of course welding is ideal, but considering the location and high possibility of warping, I would use structural adhesive.
I don’t use an application gun.
Never bought one.
I just squeese out what I need and mix it on a piece of scrap metal.
Works for me.
Bell Helicopter has proprietary videos of testing and the adhesive is actually stronger than surrounding metal.
No water infiltration, No corrosion, No ultraviolet degradation, handles any Thermal load short of fire.
Every single aircraft manufactured today uses structural adhesives to some degree.
Most automakers do also.
Of course welding is ideal, but considering the location and high possibility of warping, I would use structural adhesive.
I don’t use an application gun.
Never bought one.
I just squeese out what I need and mix it on a piece of scrap metal.
Works for me.
- 134
- 15
- 18
- Location
- Battle Ground/WA
"B" Pillar rust damage
I will need to look into structural adhesives, but the damage needs to be addressed first as this picture shows.
There are two holes in the roof, one is in the center front where there was apparently a spot light and one just above the "B" pillar for a light bar, both light fixtures were removed and the holes filled in with bondo after denting in the area around the hole for a place to let the filler adhere. the one in the center did not allow and moisture in but the one for the light bar did and it was most likely while the light bar was installed, not after the bondo patch. that was over 30 years ago so it isn't like it didn't "work". Most people don't keep vehicles this long. I feel I need to cut this open to see how far down the rust hast affected things and replace that metal. But I tend to over-think things often and am not always aware of the best practices for every situation. Thanks in advance for ideas and input.
I will need to look into structural adhesives, but the damage needs to be addressed first as this picture shows.
There are two holes in the roof, one is in the center front where there was apparently a spot light and one just above the "B" pillar for a light bar, both light fixtures were removed and the holes filled in with bondo after denting in the area around the hole for a place to let the filler adhere. the one in the center did not allow and moisture in but the one for the light bar did and it was most likely while the light bar was installed, not after the bondo patch. that was over 30 years ago so it isn't like it didn't "work". Most people don't keep vehicles this long. I feel I need to cut this open to see how far down the rust hast affected things and replace that metal. But I tend to over-think things often and am not always aware of the best practices for every situation. Thanks in advance for ideas and input.
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- Edmond, Oklahoma
I would spray that area inside and out with a rust converter spray or equivalent.
A lot of guys use Ospho and it works very well at stopping rust and painting over it once it cures.
I use ACF50 to spray on/in all the nooks and crannies.
It also immediately stops rust and prevents any corrosion for at least two years for a single application.
Was designed for Aviation and creeps into the smallest places to provide protection.
Stuff is amazing. It’s the product used in any salt air environment and works extremely well.
I use it on everything.
Not cheap (about $18+- a can) but it works.
Rain will not wash it off.
You might be able to soak that pillar from the inside and not have to drill any small holes for spray nozzle tube.
Would definitely beat cutting into it.
A lot of guys use Ospho and it works very well at stopping rust and painting over it once it cures.
I use ACF50 to spray on/in all the nooks and crannies.
It also immediately stops rust and prevents any corrosion for at least two years for a single application.
Was designed for Aviation and creeps into the smallest places to provide protection.
Stuff is amazing. It’s the product used in any salt air environment and works extremely well.
I use it on everything.
Not cheap (about $18+- a can) but it works.
Rain will not wash it off.
You might be able to soak that pillar from the inside and not have to drill any small holes for spray nozzle tube.
Would definitely beat cutting into it.
- 134
- 15
- 18
- Location
- Battle Ground/WA
I have some Ospho that I use on surface rust but didn't think to use on a situation this bad. Being from southern California, rust is not something I have a lot of experience with so I benefit from the experience of those in the rust belt areas. I now live in the Northwest but salt isn't used much here although rain is constant for many months and cleaning moss off cars is part of maintenance here. I will document and photograph the results on this. And the ACF50 sounds like something I want to try as well. Thanks!