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Finally bought a M37!

K

Karl kostman

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I have owned a few 37s and they are a good easy to work on little truck. Very reliable and their prices keep going up. Yours looks like just about the right amount of work to be done, I see the paint doing some things because of rust but doesnt look to bad, clean it up get rid of the bad paint sand it down to good metal and treat accordingly and you should be good to go!
 
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chapmajs

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glcaines said:
M37s are neat trucks. I drove them in the Army and have driven several since, including one in an underground mine that had a Ford tractor diesel engine installed.
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Pretty cool! I suspect it's pretty easy to swap stuff in, as long as it's not too tall. Kinda want to find one of those Hercules 3.7L turbodiesels that drops in, but I also do like these old flatheads a lot, and it's the same engine that's in my Clarktor-6 tractor.

Karl kostman said:
I have owned a few 37s and they are a good easy to work on little truck. Very reliable and their prices keep going up. Yours looks like just about the right amount of work to be done, I see the paint doing some things because of rust but doesnt look to bad, clean it up get rid of the bad paint sand it down to good metal and treat accordingly and you should be good to go!
Click to expand...
That was my thoughts on this one. It's actually been undercoated at some point in its life, and is pretty much "rust-free" as far as northeast trucks go! The price was right enough to make it worth the time to go get it, and I was able to do a job moving a forklift from Albany to Poughkeepsie in the same trip. The engine is free and someone was wrenching on it kinda recent, as the title was last transferred in 2013 and it has LED headlamps.
 
G744

G744

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The entire G741 series of tacticals was undoubtedly one of the best engineered vehicles ever fielded. One can see the transition from the WW2 trucks, thru the T195 test bed trucks, to the final product.

Properly militarized from the earliest production, worlds advanced from the WDX/WM300 PW's.

Not a cheap truck to build, either.

Take care of yours, there are fewer existing every day.
 
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chapmajs

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G744 said:
The entire G741 series of tacticals was undoubtedly one of the best engineered vehicles ever fielded. One can see the transition from the WW2 trucks, thru the T195 test bed trucks, to the final product.

Properly militarized from the earliest production, worlds advanced from the WDX/WM300 PW's.

Not a cheap truck to build, either.

Take care of yours, there are fewer existing every day.
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My brother has a WW2 Dodge...WC series I think. Definitely looks more like a COTS job than the M37s -- he's had me help sort some of his wiring problems via pictures and videos. The "not COTS" aspect is definitely part of the draw of the M37 for me.

Plan is to actually run and drive this one some, most of my driving is around town or backroads, or out to and around the farm in WV. I currently get to choose between a VW Jetta or Mack Midliner, so it'll be nice to have something in between!
 
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chapmajs

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Put brake fluid in this morning to let it sit, smelled like DOT-3 so that's what I put back in it. Looks like the front brakes may be disconnected. Master cylinder pumps up and feels like it's pushing air now, so I'm going to let it sit, figure it's better for the seals. Someone has done the brake lines once, the ones on there aren't stock, but it'll get all new before it really goes out on the road. Yard brakes are nice though :p

I had a spare group 31 battery and it looks like two will fit nicely in the battery box (tray's long gone), so I picked up a second one.
 
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chapmajs

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Put batteries in...it's the weirdest thing...all the lights work! Someone must've gone through and redone them.

Cranks fine, have spark, no run. Occasional *putt* or carb backfire. Guessing the timing is totally screwed up! The plugs were wired as if the distributor spun counterclockwise and was 180 degrees out. Switching them to normal order didn't improve the situation, so I will pull the #6 cylinder timing plug, find TDC, and pull the ignition assembly.

Ignition assembly is a military sealed unit, so *supposedly* that can only go in the right way...of course if the oil pump is indexed wrong, that'd screw it up, and there are tales of aftermarket/modified military style ignition assemblies with the oil pump shaft key centered, instead of off-center, so who knows what's in there.
 
G744

G744

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Don't change them out, they are rare.

Being sealed units, there is no danger to you or anyone else around them.

You'll get more exposure levels with one airline flight than driving that truck for weeks.
I have a ex-USN counter with an "Operational check source" on it, lots of clicks but very low rems, really.
 
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chapmajs

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Buena Vista, VA
G744 said:
Don't change them out, they are rare.

Being sealed units, there is no danger to you or anyone else around them.

You'll get more exposure levels with one airline flight than driving that truck for weeks.
I have a ex-USN counter with an "Operational check source" on it, lots of clicks but very low rems, really.
Click to expand...
Yeah, no worries they're definitely staying, I used to wear my WW2 ordinance watch every day, all day, until the concussion from firing a pistol knocked the second hand off! Sure, every decay event that results in a particle or gamma ray passing through you has a nonzero chance of breaking that one exact piece of DNA that ends up causing cancer...but so does basically existing :p

As with almost all low-level sources, unless you eat it or otherwise get it inside your body, it's probably not the worst thing you're currently doing to yourself!
 
C

chapmajs

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Miswire confirmed:

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
www.youtube.com www.youtube.com

The distributor is off by a tooth, I tried to use the tried and true method of sticking my finger over the #1 sparkplug hole while my wife hit the starter, but kept coming up with the rotor between positions. So, I disconnected all the plugs from the distributor and moved the #1 plug wire around until it fired off, then the normal 1-5-3-6-2-4 once we knew where #1 lived.

So, as it arrived, it was wired 180 degrees out from TM normal, and was also wired with a firing order that only would make sense for counterclockwise distributor rotation...which of course isn't how these flatheads run. The oil pump does not have the same green paint as the rest of the block and pan, so I'm betting someone changed it out, didn't read the TM, and didn't know to turn the distributor drive gear back a tooth!

Now the next thing is, it's got an electric fuel pump which is of course...dead. Man, I hate aftermarket electric fuel pumps, that was one of the things which led to the runaway M49 clutch explosion! I see there are 24V aviation electric pumps available...do I do that or buy a mechanical from Midwest or VPW or something?

There's currently a blockoff on the hole for the pump, which is painted very close to the same color as the block...that's kinda curious. This truck does also have a power steering upgrade with what looks like a professionally made bracket. Wish I knew more of the history behind it!

I also need to hook up at least an oil pressure gauge before I run it anymore. There's no life out of the dash gauge, but I'm pretty sure the sender is unplugged. It looks like someone started doing their own wiring harness replacement on this truck...it's not terrible, but it's also not "right" and doesn't match the TM diagrams even a little.
 
G744

G744

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It seems the alcohol in today's gas eats up the rubber diaphragm in engine-driven fuel pumps, thinning the oil.

There are a number of good electric pumps available, I've had good luck with Mallory.

Just make sure to mount it back by the tank, not under the hood as new gas vapor-locks easier. Pushing it is better than pulling it.

BTW, the original oil pump has an offset drive slot so the dist can't be put in 180 off.
 
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chapmajs

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Buena Vista, VA
G744 said:
It seems the alcohol in today's gas eats up the rubber diaphragm in engine-driven fuel pumps, thinning the oil.
Click to expand...
Yeah on the Clarktor-6 I'm running it gravity feed from the tank, since the tank in that particular model is over the engine. That was my #1 fear there, blowing a pump diaphragm, killing the oil, and spinning a bearing.

That Facet pump looks like a good choice, there's a regulator on the firewall ahead of the carb but I wouldn't mind being able to remove that! Not planning on running vacuum wipers since the truck came with no wiper motors, so I won't miss that part on the mechanical pump.

So if we know that ethanol eats the rubber in rebuild kits...why don't the rebuild kit manufacturers spec a better product? On diesels that use Bosch VE rotary injection systems, it's a common issue, having the ULSD eat the seals on the distributor head...but Bosch just sells compatible reseal kits, and that's what all the Bosch authorized shops use!

[the ethanol issue is less of an issue here since we have three stations around the area that dispense ethanol free, but you never know when you'll have to gas up somewhere else]

G744 said:
BTW, the original oil pump has an offset drive slot so the dist can't be put in 180 off.
Click to expand...
It's looking like it may have been replaced, I don't know if someone could've changed the distributor shaft, it's the military sealed ignition unit so it *should* also have an offset drive tang. I've heard stories on the Internet about remanufactured sealed units having civilian non-offset tangs, but never seen a picture to actually confirm.
 
G744

G744

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I can't resist...

My Diesel M37

I built this over two years, starting back in '73. What I wound up with: 3-53N Detroit 3 cyl engine. Spicer 3053 5-speed OD trans w/PTO. Full air-over-hydraulic brake system w/gladhands for trailers. Johnny-bar for trailer brake actuation. 11.00-18 Goat tires/wheels on homemade adapter plates...
www.steelsoldiers.com
 
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chapmajs

Member
26
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Location
Buena Vista, VA
G744 said:
I can't resist...

My Diesel M37

I built this over two years, starting back in '73. What I wound up with: 3-53N Detroit 3 cyl engine. Spicer 3053 5-speed OD trans w/PTO. Full air-over-hydraulic brake system w/gladhands for trailers. Johnny-bar for trailer brake actuation. 11.00-18 Goat tires/wheels on homemade adapter plates...
www.steelsoldiers.com
Click to expand...
That's awesome! Always thought a 3-53 would swap well in a M37. A guy in town has a Chevrolet 3100 he put a 3-53 in and it's a pretty reasonable engine for something that size.

If the flathead blows up, it's definitely getting a diesel.
 
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