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Finally got me a deuce!

Jbulach

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Have you verified continuity of the wire from gauge to the sending unit? Try grounding it next to the sending unit to see if gauge pegs again. Also verify good ground engine to frame, frame to cab, engine to cab, battery to everything. Also try to confirm continuity under load, sometimes your multimeter will not catch intermittent bad grounds.
 

Balalala

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Have you verified continuity of the wire from gauge to the sending unit? Try grounding it next to the sending unit to see if gauge pegs again. Also verify good ground engine to frame, frame to cab, engine to cab, battery to everything. Also try to confirm continuity under load, sometimes your multimeter will not catch intermittent bad grounds.
Have you verified continuity of the wire from gauge to the sending unit? Try grounding it next to the sending unit to see if gauge pegs again. Also verify good ground engine to frame, frame to cab, engine to cab, battery to everything. Also try to confirm continuity under load, sometimes your multimeter will not catch intermittent bad grounds.
Due to the length of the cable i can't put my multimeter on both ends. But I checked for resistance at the sending unit, and at the end of the wire going into the gage and the reading was the same. 6 - 7ohms at ambient temp.

Ground strap from motor to cab looks good. I didn't check the battery ground.

I put the original sending unit in hot water, theb placed it ontop of the gage. Directly on the grounded portion. Used a wire to go from the sending unit to the gage but it wouldnt move the needle.
 

ToddJK

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Due to the length of the cable i can't put my multimeter on both ends. But I checked for resistance at the sending unit, and at the end of the wire going into the gage and the reading was the same. 6 - 7ohms at ambient temp.

Ground strap from motor to cab looks good. I didn't check the battery ground.

I put the original sending unit in hot water, theb placed it ontop of the gage. Directly on the grounded portion. Used a wire to go from the sending unit to the gage but it wouldnt move the needle.
Can't hurt to buy a new gauge and temp sending unit, worse comes to worse, you'll have spare parts for when you do need it if that's not the issue. I don't need a new fuel gauge or generator gauge, but I bought them anyways when I found a good deal on them. Same with bulbs, I have enough to replace all the bulbs in every part of the truck two times over, lol.
 

HDN

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Can't hurt to buy a new gauge and temp sending unit, worse comes to worse, you'll have spare parts for when you do need it if that's not the issue. I don't need a new fuel gauge or generator gauge, but I bought them anyways when I found a good deal on them. Same with bulbs, I have enough to replace all the bulbs in every part of the truck two times over, lol.
I'd love to have the space for that :ROFLMAO: My shop cupboard is running out of room!
 

Balalala

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Can't hurt to buy a new gauge and temp sending unit, worse comes to worse, you'll have spare parts for when you do need it if that's not the issue. I don't need a new fuel gauge or generator gauge, but I bought them anyways when I found a good deal on them. Same with bulbs, I have enough to replace all the bulbs in every part of the truck two times over, lol.
First thing I replaced was the temp sending unit.. spare parts aren't so bad. I have a few bulbs now myself, napa insist I buy the whole box.

New gage is on the way
 

Balalala

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I let it run for 20 or 30min and kept an eye on the engine temp with a heat gun. Pretty sure the thermostat opened up, heater was working.

Lower rad hose still feels squishy, like it has air trapped in it. Any suggestions, or do I just keep an eye on it and wait for the air pocket to work it's way out?
 
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ToddJK

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I let it run for 20 or 30min and kept an eye on the engine temp with a heat gun. Pretty sure the thermostat opened up, heater was working.

Lower rad hose still feels squishy, like it has air trapped in it. Any suggestions, or do I just keep an eye on it and wait for the air pocket to work it's way out?
Let it run with the radiator cap off and watch the neck. Start it and as it heats up, should see air bubbles come out. Once the bubbles are practically gone and it's a steady flow that is wanting to come out, you got the air out. Typically when full, the coolant should be in the neck of the full tube, or if you aren't on top looking down, you should be able to dip your middle finger in coolant when reaching above. If there's continuous bubbles and it never stops bubbling, that's typically a sign of combustion gasses getting into the coolant system, which means head gasket failure.
 

Balalala

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No bubbles... I removed the upper rad hose filled it and tried to put it back on without loosing the coolant out of it, that was a fail..

I parked on a side hill, with the rad cap being the highest point, sqeezed the upper and lower rad hoses, I think some of the air worked its way out.

Again, highest engine temp I could read with a laser thermometer was about 175⁰ - 180⁰ f.

Heater worked great. Starting to wonder if the thermostat is stuck wide open. New temp gage should be here shortly.

**the overflow tank never did build up pressure, coolant was just warm to the touch when I stuck my finger in it.**
 

ToddJK

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No bubbles... I removed the upper rad hose filled it and tried to put it back on without loosing the coolant out of it, that was a fail..

I parked on a side hill, with the rad cap being the highest point, sqeezed the upper and lower rad hoses, I think some of the air worked its way out.

Again, highest engine temp I could read with a laser thermometer was about 175⁰ - 180⁰ f.

Heater worked great. Starting to wonder if the thermostat is stuck wide open. New temp gage should be here shortly.
These multifuels typically run cooler on idle compared to normal vehicles, the coolant system is quiet effective to say the least, lol. No bubbles, that's good and as long as the coolant level is full, check it after a few drives to make sure it's still full, if so, you're good. Hopefully that new temp gauge gets you squared away on that issue. Out of all the gauges, imo, the temp and air gauge(s) are the important ones. I can do without a speedo/rpm, generator and fuel, but air does the brakes and in some cases, steering, and we know that's a needed function. The temp gauge is the only sure way to know if something is really wrong without physical proof like steam, smoke, ect. It's also more accurate in the sense that if those generator/water pump belts come off or break, you'll know as the temp begins to get into unfamiliar territory. My belts have shredded in the fan on me three times and never heard it happen once, but the temp gauge was always the clear indicator as it was above normal. A quick inspection under the hood proved the gauge was not faulting out, the belts were now shredded pieces of rubber.
 

Balalala

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These multifuels typically run cooler on idle compared to normal vehicles, the coolant system is quiet effective to say the least, lol. No bubbles, that's good and as long as the coolant level is full, check it after a few drives to make sure it's still full, if so, you're good. Hopefully that new temp gauge gets you squared away on that issue. Out of all the gauges, imo, the temp and air gauge(s) are the important ones. I can do without a speedo/rpm, generator and fuel, but air does the brakes and in some cases, steering, and we know that's a needed function. The temp gauge is the only sure way to know if something is really wrong without physical proof like steam, smoke, ect. It's also more accurate in the sense that if those generator/water pump belts come off or break, you'll know as the temp begins to get into unfamiliar territory. My belts have shredded in the fan on me three times and never heard it happen once, but the temp gauge was always the clear indicator as it was above normal. A quick inspection under the hood proved the gauge was not faulting out, the belts were now shredded pieces of rubber.
As much as the thought of the multi fuel engine intrigued me, my m35a3 has the cat 3116 engine.

Good info about the belts , perhaps I should get a few spares for when the time comes.
 

ToddJK

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As much as the thought of the multi fuel engine intrigued me, my m35a3 has the cat 3116 engine.

Good info about the belts , perhaps I should get a few spares for when the time comes.
My bad, I do that sometimes, lol. Surprisingly, after owning two M35's, I've never been stranded by a mechanical failure, fuel issue, or even a blown tire (knock on wood), it's always been those darn belts. The third time I had extras on hand and the tools to do it, so I wasn't stranded for long, but the first two times was rediculous and embarrassing at the same time, lol.
 

Balalala

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My bad, I do that sometimes, lol. Surprisingly, after owning two M35's, I've never been stranded by a mechanical failure, fuel issue, or even a blown tire (knock on wood), it's always been those darn belts. The third time I had extras on hand and the tools to do it, so I wasn't stranded for long, but the first two times was rediculous and embarrassing at the same time, lol.
The belts likely didn't age well, along with the lower rad hose. I appreciate the info
 

Balalala

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My windshields are rusted and one is cracked, i see some for sale for just over 100$ each, with gaskets installed. Anyone know how hard it is to swap out windshields? The ad says some fitment may be required
 
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HDN

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My windshields are rusted and one is cracked, i see some for sale for just over 100$ each, with gaskets installed. Anyone know how hard it is to swap out windshields? The ad says some fitment may be required
If those windshield panels are what I think they are, they may require some cutting around the gasket and maybe some redrilling of hardware holes in the frame. My dad went that route with his M37, which I believe uses the same windshield panels.

I'd consider getting them professionally fixed. I'm pretty sure @gringeltaube posted here somewhere what kind of channels are used on the windshield glass frames.

Regarding temperature, my A3 usually reads around 180 degrees when driving around. It'll get up to 200 or so on a hot day while idling or high-idling, at which point the cooling fan engages.
 

Balalala

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If those windshield panels are what I think they are, they may require some cutting around the gasket and maybe some redrilling of hardware holes in the frame. My dad went that route with his M37, which I believe uses the same windshield panels.

I'd consider getting them professionally fixed. I'm pretty sure @gringeltaube posted here somewhere what kind of channels are used on the windshield glass frames.

Regarding temperature, my A3 usually reads around 180 degrees when driving around. It'll get up to 200 or so on a hot day while idling or high-idling, at which point the cooling fan engages.
Interesting, my fan runs all the time. Thanks for the info about the windshields
 

HDN

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Interesting, my fan runs all the time.
Are you sure about that? The fan makes a loud WHOOSH sound when it's engaged with a noticeable breeze coming out of the front wheel wells, otherwise it just windmills. I believe if the fan clutch were to fail for some reason that it actually fails in the "Off" position instead of the "On" position, against conventional wisdom.

This is what your truck should sound like with the fan off (you only really need to listen to the first minute of the video, but the rest of it is just me driving the truck on backroads):

 

Balalala

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Are you sure about that? The fan makes a loud WHOOSH sound when it's engaged with a noticeable breeze coming out of the front wheel wells, otherwise it just windmills. I believe if the fan clutch were to fail for some reason that it actually fails in the "Off" position instead of the "On" position, against conventional wisdom.

This is what your truck should sound like with the fan off (you only really need to listen to the first minute of the video, but the rest of it is just me driving the truck on backroads):

You are correct, fan isn't going full send. It's just wind milling..

Nice truck you have there!

Here is mine running.
https://youtube.com/shorts/mtj_BQ2GfKk?feature=share
 
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