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Finally Joined The MEP Family
- Thread starter CT-Mike
- Start date
For load testing this prior to hooking up to the house, I should be able to hook the ground to the already driven ground rod, and ensure neutral and ground are tied tougher at the generator right? I know that when it comes time to connect to the house, generator ground needs to connect to house ground, and generator neutral needs to be floating.
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I use a plastic bucket and mount the elements facing down into the bucket through the top. I cut a hole in the top for a garden hose and cut a small hole in the side of the bucket at the level of the lid. Water goes in the top and runs out the overflow hole on the side.
The water won't get hot enough to melt the bucket.
You can make a barrel with water heater flanges to mount the elements. The plastic bucket trick will get you up and running in a short time while you build your main system.
The water won't get hot enough to melt the bucket.
You can make a barrel with water heater flanges to mount the elements. The plastic bucket trick will get you up and running in a short time while you build your main system.
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Anytime.
You can use something like this to make your load bank using a metal or plastic 55 gal drum.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Q6777C/?tag=waterheaterti-20
You can use something like this to make your load bank using a metal or plastic 55 gal drum.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Q6777C/?tag=waterheaterti-20
Howdy,
Generator running by itself= ground rod, wire to ground lug, bonding strap in place (flat copper plate next to neutral lug)
Generator connected to house= bonding strap removed, all four wires connected to house. (single phase 120/240) The ground neutral bonding is already in place at your panel.
So I connected up 10 KW (nominal rating) of water heater elements in a plastic barrel full of water for a load test. The generator didn't even bat an eye. I let it run for an hour and then ran it unloaded for 5 minutes to cooldown.
My clamp on ammeter showed a total of 83 amps to the heaters, at 120V yields approximately 9,960W. Capacity meter was reading just below 75%. Is this what people typically see at 10KW, or is the meter out of cal?
http://youtu.be/tEl45PpaIMo
My clamp on ammeter showed a total of 83 amps to the heaters, at 120V yields approximately 9,960W. Capacity meter was reading just below 75%. Is this what people typically see at 10KW, or is the meter out of cal?
http://youtu.be/tEl45PpaIMo
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That looks about right. You will read lower than normal on a pure resistive load. The meter is calibrated for a power factor of 0.8. That is the reason for the difference.
If you take 9960w * 0.8 you should read just under 80%. I wouldn't quibble over 5% error so if its reading about 75% I would call it good.
Edit - I'm headed down to pick up a 803 tomorrow. I hope its a good one. I sold my cherished 003a to buy it.
If you take 9960w * 0.8 you should read just under 80%. I wouldn't quibble over 5% error so if its reading about 75% I would call it good.
Edit - I'm headed down to pick up a 803 tomorrow. I hope its a good one. I sold my cherished 003a to buy it.
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You sure its not 1.21 jiga-watts? 
Yup, 3650 MW thermal, 1280 MW electric.You sure its not 1.21 jiga-watts?
Good luck with your unit tomorrow, hope it's a runner with no issues.
Well I start back on nights tonight so getting this beast connected up to the house will have to wait until next week. I need to go to the town hall and pull a permit also.
Once that is finished I will get to work on the Arduino based monitor discussed in post #21 of this thread:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?135789-Wireless-Generator-Parameter-Monitoring/page3
I have the Arduino, TFT display, Wifi shield, prototyping shield already in hand. Just need to design the peripherals for the various sensors.
Once that is finished I will get to work on the Arduino based monitor discussed in post #21 of this thread:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?135789-Wireless-Generator-Parameter-Monitoring/page3
I have the Arduino, TFT display, Wifi shield, prototyping shield already in hand. Just need to design the peripherals for the various sensors.
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I picked it up today.
The generator has a bit of a bash on its top from something hitting it pretty hard. I took it apart to make sure there wasn't any hidden damage. There wasn't. Cosmetic only. The particular generator came with fluids still in it and a set of batteries. The power cables were still tied up as it comes from the factory. I even have the ground rod kit and the AUX fuel hose. Its a Tier2 reset from 2012.
I checked the batteries and they each showed 12.1v. Ok. Not bad. After a short charge they were up to spec.
Next I decided to turn it over with the dead crank switch to make sure nothing was binding. It spun easily and nothing sounded wrong.
Now the moment of truth. I primed the fuel system and hit the start button. It IMMEDIATELY fired and ran perfectly. It didn't make a full revolution on the starter before it popped off and ran.
I'm letting it run a little bit and everything is just as it should be except for one thing, the sound.. This thing is a LOT quieter than my MEP003a. Its quieter with the covers OFF than the MEP003 is with the ASK.
I'm going to have a hard time parting with this one. I may end up keeping it.
That's awesome Chris, glad to hear she's a runner with no issues. What did you end up paying if you don't mind me asking?
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Probably too much to be able to resell it. With fees and taxes about $5100.
Holy smokes, prices have gone up quite a bit when I picked mine up for $3800 back in February, and SWMBO gave me a load of grief on that amount. That said, I likely would've paid what you paid to end up with a unit in the condition it's in.
Reason I ask is a woman at work is showing interest in getting one of these.
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Yea, in the south east $3500-$4000 gets you one with a couple thousand hours on it. The folks that I normally buy for don't want those. I'll be glad when enough 803s make it to auction to bring the prices down. 10kw is the sweet spot for backup of a medium sized mostly electric house.
That makes sense. I'm seriously thinking about selling this one and upgrading to an -804A so I can be sipping bourbon while sitting in the hot tub during a snowstorm power outage.
The rest of the loads include electric oven and dryer, 3 heat pumps, well pump, 1 dual zone split HVAC system, two fridges, freezer, 3 garage door openers, a killer home stereo/theater system, two pellet stoves, two propane boilers, and lighting.
For those thinking about it, yes I have three separate systems to heat my house. I am a strong believer in Murphy's Law and redundancy.
The rest of the loads include electric oven and dryer, 3 heat pumps, well pump, 1 dual zone split HVAC system, two fridges, freezer, 3 garage door openers, a killer home stereo/theater system, two pellet stoves, two propane boilers, and lighting.
For those thinking about it, yes I have three separate systems to heat my house. I am a strong believer in Murphy's Law and redundancy.
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I have a gas cooktop and I am finishing up a solar hot water project. That significantly drops my power needs down. I do have a heatpump but a 802 will run it. I have the heat strips for defrost on a separate breaker so I can click those off if I'm on emergency power.
If I'm running in low power mode (no heat or AC) I can get away with the MEP831a. That will run everything in the house plus the well pump. My MEP003a turned out to be more generator that I needed so I recently sold it. I picked up the 803 for a friend that now tells me that they don't want it because of the dent. Oh well. Worse case I'll put the 803 on the trailer where the 003 was and keep it for myself.
If I'm running in low power mode (no heat or AC) I can get away with the MEP831a. That will run everything in the house plus the well pump. My MEP003a turned out to be more generator that I needed so I recently sold it. I picked up the 803 for a friend that now tells me that they don't want it because of the dent. Oh well. Worse case I'll put the 803 on the trailer where the 003 was and keep it for myself.