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First Deuce Winter Experience

cattlerepairman

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I ran out of time and didn't get my solargizer mounted. Would I be out of line just crimping on alligator clamps and laying the panel on the seat while parked?
No, but I remember reading that one of the guys measured solargizer output and the difference between the solar panel being exposed directly to sun light as opposed to being behind glass (windshield) was huge, I want to say 50%.
 

todds112

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The 3" aluminum duct worked just fine. It was a bit of a pain fishing it up onto the driver's side. I ended up pulling the gauge cluster to be able to reach in and route it up to the duct. Had to disconnect the speedo and tach to do it. The driver side defrost duct sits right above the steering wheel. Now I have defrost!
 

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doghead

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If you cross the ducts, the drivers side will get better flow(on that side).

This is shown in the TM also.
 

rustystud

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Just FYI the aluminum duct works just fine. I'm not crazy about how it looks, but I'm like that. I found a pricier options that looks more original:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...&gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c2692_a_7c9840_a_7c52062

To be safe I'ld go with a 6' length. And it is 3" ID.
That was a good find Todd ! I think I will be buying some soon. The aluminum hose is good but if dented it looses flow. The Neoprene if hit or smashed will bounce back to shape.
 

06Speed6

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Just FYI the aluminum duct works just fine. I'm not crazy about how it looks, but I'm like that. I found a pricier options that looks more original:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...&gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c2692_a_7c9840_a_7c52062

To be safe I'ld go with a 6' length. And it is 3" ID.
That is brake duct hose, you can pick it up for cheap on fleabay but beware of buying used since it may be covered in brake dust and you don't want to breathe that stuff at all since it can contain asbestos.
 

ToddJK

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An old thread but it's the first one that pops up when you search winterizing the deuce and artic kits.

I have ran a cardboard front before and while it works, it works until it's soggy then it degrades very quickly.
I made a new piece that was painted and then applied that water repellent silicone spray. This lasted the whole winter.

While the cardboard worked, it's not as good as the artic front cover, which is insulated and it can be closed or opened.

Using the artic cover or the winter front as some say, don't need the clips to install it. Zip ties work great and will last the whole season. The cover definitely made a huge difference as far as how warm I would stay in the truck as well as engine temp.

This is also the time to plug any holes possible in the cab. Every hole will be a shute for cold air so something even like duct tape will help.

When it's cold, the other thing to consider are the batteries. The colder it gets, the less juice the batteries put out. A fully charged battery is less likely to freeze vs a depleted battery, so make sure it's fully charged. This can be done by a trickle charger, normal operation with ample time to charge by the alternator. Let the truck idle for ten minutes with no electronics going such as lights or the heater to charge the batteries. A battery equalizer also helps with this as well as long term battery life and maintenance. Another step to further assist the batteries would be a battery blanket or warmer. This will greatly help as it dips below freezing and will keep them from freezing, even in sub zero temperatures.

Lastly, a block heater and/or an oil pan heater. In most cases I would suggest the block heater, but if that's not an option, the oil pan heater is something to consider. They just stick on the bottom of the pan and keep the oil warmer than the ambient air temperature. For a deuce, I think faster oil flow is a huge benefit, especially if using the stock oil filter set up.

Last winter, there was a few times my truck didn't want to start. Mostly due to batteries being so cold, they didn't have enough juice to turn the engine over fast enough and would die rather quickly. I had to put a space heater on them to warm them up so it would start the deuce. One problem is making sure to have the correct batteries to begin with. Group 31 seem to be the standard, ones that have 900+ cca. I was running group 65's since none of the local battery outlets had group 31's. A bit odd, but I was told "corona" so that pretty much explained it. 65's with 850 cca will work but when it's cold, no, but warm, yes.

Don't forget to prepare. Have extra anti freeze in the back and have an emergency kit ready to go in case there's a breakdown of some sort. A blanket, food, hand warmers, and some flares if need be. A propane heater like a buddy heater will sure come in handy as well if you ever need it. Could even splurge with a small alcohol stove in a SS cup and some hot cocoa. Alcohol stoves work better in the cold vs a butane stove and are more compact than a propane stove.

Also, for deuce owners without winter experience or newer owners, be careful about running alternative fuels in the winter, that is if you do normally. It's nice to save some $$ on fuel, but wmo or wvo will be difficult to start on when it's below 45 degrees and it becomes significantly harder on the fuel pump and IP. If you insist on running wmo/wvo, then I suggest no more than 15-20 gallons at most. Mix with gasoline and some diesel will help blend it all together. If you can get your hands on JP-5 jet fuel, 35 g of that mixed with 15 g of wmo and it'll run like a champ. Below 20°F, I would run 40 g of JP-5 and only 10 g of wmo. I don't suggest running it straight as it's clear and seems very dry so I would mix wmo with it regardless for the IP.

This is all based on if the deuce has a heater to begin with and everything works as it should.
 
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BEASTMASTER

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u can believe what u want but , i pushed a 12 foot plow with my 5 ton for the town of bridgewater ,ma. for 17 years wit ndcc tires .and no ballast in the body. never got stuck or had trouble pushing up hill. they usually sent me out to widen streets that were'nt wide enough also. the only trouble i had was turning corners. but going straight nothing would stop that girl. figures i go south and my buddie gives me 10 sets of tire chains . go figure. good luck
 
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cattlerepairman

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I have a love-hate relationship with oil pan heaters. All I am saying is, be careful with them on a truck that seeps oil or fuel and the stuff runs down the engine block. I have seen a few of them light up pretty good with the 115V magnetic oil pan heaters. I am not certain the pad ones that stick to the bottom or side of the pan are quantum leaps safer. What I have seen tells me to be careful with those, especially when running them on a timer, unsupervised. It is night and day, though, starting a Diesel with the lube oil pre-heated.
 

ToddJK

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I have a love-hate relationship with oil pan heaters. All I am saying is, be careful with them on a truck that seeps oil or fuel and the stuff runs down the engine block. I have seen a few of them light up pretty good with the 115V magnetic oil pan heaters. I am not certain the pad ones that stick to the bottom or side of the pan are quantum leaps safer. What I have seen tells me to be careful with those, especially when running them on a timer, unsupervised. It is night and day, though, starting a Diesel with the lube oil pre-heated.
I've wondered about that too. The elements are sealed in the pads, but that is indeed a chance, plugging anything electrical into the deuce could short out and cause a fire. In that case, I think quality and workmanship of said product should be important.
 
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