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First GovPlanet purchase and questions (MEP-803A)

Icesythe7

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Won my first GP auction 7/26/23 and picked it up same day (MEP-803A), got it home added oil filter and oil, fuel, batteries, and checked air filter and a few other things, turned the switch and she fired right up and made power the only missing thing I could find was the emergency stop switch (which has been ordered and on the way just put the wire together for now), and a fuse that i can't figure out what it does or if it is needed which I am hoping someone on here could help me figure out (I looked at the TM and don't see it yet on other peoples 803a vids on youtube I can see it is there) it seems to fully function without it but maybe it does some other function I am unaware of, also the 2 wires that would go to it seem to not exist there are no loose wires in the inside.
The area in question is between the selection switch and the voltage regulator
PXL_20230728_030556420[1].jpg
also does anyone know where I can get the wing bolt for the panel door?
PXL_20230728_030611363[1].jpg
P.S. Got lucky and all gauges work properly including the fuel gauge!
 

WWRD99

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I think you're talking about the fuse upgrade...I think there's a tsb on that somewhere. If you hunt in here like the stickies in the tm section it should be there. Have fun with the 803!! Love mine.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 

Evvy Fesler

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Roxboro, North Carolina USA
Welcome!

The fuse mod is important, but it doesn't seem to be wired. Also missing the MOV and probably the diode mods. Don't push it until all three mods are in place. You'll probably need to replace fuel and fuel return lines. These are a common failure point on this model.
 

Jeepadict

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Round Mountain, NV
The fuse mod is important, but it doesn't seem to be wired. Also missing the MOV and probably the diode mods. Don't push it until all three mods are in place. You'll probably need to replace fuel and fuel return lines. These are a common failure point on this model.
What is this diode mod of which you speak of?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Digger556

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Sounds like you found a good one!

That fuse is a modification from the original design, commonly referred to as the "quad-fuse". There is a winding in the generator head that provides medium voltage AC power to the voltage regulator. That AC power is rectified through a diode bridge in the regulator, but the diodes have a low maximum voltage rating compared to what they need, so it is possible for them to burn up. When they do, it short circuits that input and will burn up the winding in the stator, ruining the whole genhead. That fuse is there to protect the genhead from a dead short in the regulator.

Kurt, a member here, came up with a further mod to the system that places a MOV on that input. MOV are basically surge protectors and they are used to clamp excessive voltage inputs to the regulator, protecting the diode bridge from destruction. These two mods should be performed before running the generator to protect those expensive components from self-destructing.

Colt made a nice YT video explaining the mod.
 

Icesythe7

Active member
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Location
Indiana, USA
Sounds like you found a good one!

That fuse is a modification from the original design, commonly referred to as the "quad-fuse". There is a winding in the generator head that provides medium voltage AC power to the voltage regulator. That AC power is rectified through a diode bridge in the regulator, but the diodes have a low maximum voltage rating compared to what they need, so it is possible for them to burn up. When they do, it short circuits that input and will burn up the winding in the stator, ruining the whole genhead. That fuse is there to protect the genhead from a dead short in the regulator.

Kurt, a member here, came up with a further mod to the system that places a MOV on that input. MOV are basically surge protectors and they are used to clamp excessive voltage inputs to the regulator, protecting the diode bridge from destruction. These two mods should be performed before running the generator to protect those expensive components from self-destructing.

Colt made a nice YT video explaining the mod.
Thanks for the info got the missing parts ordered, anyone know where I can get a replacement 1/4 turn wingnut for the gauge panel door?

Edit: Looking back at my own picture now after watching the video it looks like the wire going to "8" already has a connector on it for the fuse!
 
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Jeepadict

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Round Mountain, NV
Thanks for the info got the missing parts ordered, anyone know where I can get a replacement 1/4 turn wingnut for the gauge panel door?
Several members have parts units, give them some time to see this. Option 2 is to locate the part in the TM, then Google the P/N and NSN...lots of parts are making their way to eBay along with several online retailers that specialize in this niche.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Icesythe7

Active member
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Location
Indiana, USA
Several members have parts units, give them some time to see this. Option 2 is to locate the part in the TM, then Google the P/N and NSN...lots of parts are making their way to eBay along with several online retailers that specialize in this niche.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Perfect I found it https://shop.southco.com/en_us/85-12-460-16

Edit: also got all the gauges dialed in with multimeter
PXL_20230728_162944706[1].jpgPXL_20230728_162931380[1].jpg
 
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WWRD99

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I was thinking about how upset I was so I had some 24v led strips left over from a 3d printer build and they are waterproof so added those...
Yeah the military typically doesn't like bright lights on things in the field. That looks good though! I have a led strip but it's bright yellow so I'll wait till I get some white...you think of putting a dimmer on it if it's to bright?
 

Icesythe7

Active member
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Location
Indiana, USA
Yeah the military typically doesn't like bright lights on things in the field. That looks good though! I have a led strip but it's bright yellow so I'll wait till I get some white...you think of putting a dimmer on it if it's to bright?
No there really isn't a reason to leave it on just so can see the gauges and stuff in the dark without a flashlight, so I will not be putting a dimmer on mine, I am however gonna hook up a esp32 and prolly make a small pcb so I can remotely monitor all the data while it is running tho.
 

Icesythe7

Active member
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Location
Indiana, USA
All of the missing parts finally came in today (e-stop button and other 1/4 turn wing nut for control panel door), doing first load on house...can't get it past 60% with everything on so kinda sad (most everything is natural gas)

PXL_20230801_182133380[1].jpgPXL_20230801_182122451[1].jpgPXL_20230801_182106369[1].jpg

Still waiting on exhaust pieces to pipe directly outside.
 

Digger556

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All of the missing parts finally came in today (e-stop button and other 1/4 turn wing nut for control panel door), doing first load on house...can't get it past 60% with everything on so kinda sad (most everything is natural gas)

View attachment 902628View attachment 902629View attachment 902630

Still waiting on exhaust pieces to pipe directly outside.
Have you measured output with a quality amp clamp? I have cycled through 4 current meters and none of them are accurate. All read lower than actual.

What happens with the engine when you max out at 60%? Does it bog down and throw black smoke? Does the overload fault trip?
 

Icesythe7

Active member
147
223
43
Location
Indiana, USA
Have you measured output with a quality amp clamp? I have cycled through 4 current meters and none of them are accurate. All read lower than actual.

What happens with the engine when you max out at 60%? Does it bog down and throw black smoke? Does the overload fault trip?
My fluke was like $1,300 so it better be good lol and at 60% you can tell it has a load but no smoke or anything, I adjusted the usage meter to be spot on using the amp clamps and the little adjuster screw below the gauge and it seems to be accurate given 10kW = 100%
PXL_20230801_205605488[1].jpg

Edit: The first time it was loaded to 60% it did have a little smoke/haze but it cleared up after 10 mins or so, I had everything in the house on that uses electricity and everything in the garage minus the welder and air compressor and it didnt seem to struggle any, you could tell it was working but didn't seem hard for it or bog it down. (Again almost all my appliances are natural gas)
 
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