First MEP 803A, fix up help

[Pirotess]

Hello all,
I have been reading this forum for a while but just registered recently.
I recently bought a 803A from GovPlanet out at Lytle, TX a month ago and have been working on it to set it up as a backup gen.

This is how it looked when I picked it up:




The batteries tested bad and the control panel cover was missing, as well as a door latch. There was a lot of missing screws and the muffler was unbolted from the exhaust manifold. It looks like someone ran it like that as there is soot everywhere inside. Not too bad but enough to make a mess when I'm working on it. The gauge has 3164 hours on it.

Can anyone make sense of these tags on the generator. The plate says it was made in 2009, but there is a Reset tag dated 2006, and the body is labeled as having Carc painted in 2006... How old is this really?


So, I have been working on it and have replaced most of the fuel lines except the four short pieces crimped on the fuel rail. They seem fine and I don't see any leaks there. Everything else is new.
I have also replaced all filters and oil. I even got the pump filters in today to replace.
The radiator looked full, I just had to top off the overflow bottle after fixing the tubing.
Bought new batteries.
I drained and wiped out the sand from the diesel tank and replaced the leaking well nut plugs with brass ones. The floats seem fine and work.
The gen has the quad fuse mod already, but I added the MOV as well.
I fixed a couple of broken wires on the gauges.
Added an exhaust extension and cap.
Made a gasket and bolted the muffler to the exhaust manifold.
Tightened the loose fan belt. The radiator hoses seem good.
Added screens on the air holes. (We have mud daubers here in TX.)
Both fuel pumps make noise and seem to work.

I am still looking for a cheap control cover, door latch, and a cover for the 24V plug.

So, the current status is this:




I am running the 803A on 120/240 1PH. I have a Kill A Watt meter on each leg.
So, I was able to fire it up and it seems to run well with the smoke clear after starting. It vibrates some, but I don't know how much is normal for these generators.
At idle, it runs at a stable frequency and an oil pressure of just over 40. The temp came up to 160 or so. The batteries were charging at like 27V I believe.

1. So the first problem, is I measure the frequency output and set it to 60Hz, but the Frequency gauge is maxed out at 65 (the adjustment dial doesn't help), and it wanders around. Sometimes 63 up to max on the gauge. However the output us sold at 60Hz on the meters. Is this an issue with frequency transducer? I have downloaded the TMs, but I have not had a chance to figure out how to test it yet. Can these be repaired or do they have to be replaced?


I wired up some plugs and connected all my 120V heaters to the 803A, keeping them fairly balanced. I worked it up slowly to 100% on the gauge, doing about 15-30 mins around 25%, 50%, and 75% load. I then ran it at 105% on the gauge for an hour or so.
Oil pressure dipped to around 30 but did not drop any lower. Is that normal?
The temp came up to about 170, but I never saw any change in the overflow bottle level. Do I need a new radiator cap or is this normal?

2. So second problem. I said 105% on the load gauge, but my meter registered only around 37A on L1 and 39A on L3, with around 2A on N. Shouldn't 100% be 41.7A on each leg for this 10KW 803A? Is the gauge out of calibration or am I missing something?

3. Also, while running the test, the voltage kept jumping around on L1. L3 was a bit high but solid and stable at 123V. L1 fluctuated from 111V to 119V, it seemed to stay low mostly, then jump up 6 or 7 volts suddenly. I am not sure where to look for this problem. What would cause L1 to fluctuate while L3 is stable?

Other than that, when I took out the oil dipstick while running, there was some pulsing pressure, but I could hold it with my finger easily. It did splatter some oil though. I looked in the oil cap after running and there was some smoke or steam inside, but nothing billowed out or anything. I am not clear on the blow-by issue that some people mentioned, but I think I am ok?

I'll try to add a video of it running and the voltage jump.

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thank you!

- Christopher

 

[Pirotess]

Here is a video of the voltage fluctuations and it running.

Longer one of it running with closeup of gauges and voltages

 

[Icesythe7]

For the percent load did you put a known load on it and adjust it first (31.25 amps on each leg and adjust needle to exactly 75% mark on dial?) also for the voltage drop I'm curious if one of the heaters kicks on and off after it gets a certain temp...you can just barely see what looks like a load drop/gain in line with the voltage drop and gain...You said L3 was stable and L1 fluctuated, did you swap the load on L3 to L1 and L1 to L3 and then see if L3 fluctuated to rule out one of the heaters kicking on and off? I know if I run my drier for example it kicks the heating element on and off every minute or so.

For the oil pressure I'm not a mechanic so someone else can answer but I will say on my 803a that I have never seen it get lower than 42 psi (actually had 8 hour power outage last night and was at 42 psi after running 8 hours), it seems just from general knowledge (again wait on real mech) that 30 psi is on the lowest level of "OK" there is meaning something is prolly going on, also on my unit I have no "steam/smoke" if I remove the oil fill cap after running and I can remove the dipstick and nothing sprays out and no smoke there either, no humanly noticeable pressure with finger over hole.

P.S. I'm jealous you got that for $500 less than I paid for mine lol

 

[Digger556]

Hello all,
I have been reading this forum for a while but just registered recently.
I recently bought a 803A from GovPlanet out at Lytle, TX a month ago and have been working on it to set it up as a backup gen.

This is how it looked when I picked it up:

View attachment 903142View attachment 903150View attachment 903151
View attachment 903147View attachment 903144View attachment 903146View attachment 903148View attachment 903149

The batteries tested bad and the control panel cover was missing, as well as a door latch. There was a lot of missing screws and the muffler was unbolted from the exhaust manifold. It looks like someone ran it like that as there is soot everywhere inside. Not too bad but enough to make a mess when I'm working on it. The gauge has 3164 hours on it.

Can anyone make sense of these tags on the generator. The plate says it was made in 2009, but there is a Reset tag dated 2006, and the body is labeled as having Carc painted in 2006... How old is this really?
View attachment 903160View attachment 903163

So, I have been working on it and have replaced most of the fuel lines except the four short pieces crimped on the fuel rail. They seem fine and I don't see any leaks there. Everything else is new.
I have also replaced all filters and oil. I even got the pump filters in today to replace.
The radiator looked full, I just had to top off the overflow bottle after fixing the tubing.
Bought new batteries.
I drained and wiped out the sand from the diesel tank and replaced the leaking well nut plugs with brass ones. The floats seem fine and work.
The gen has the quad fuse mod already, but I added the MOV as well.
I fixed a couple of broken wires on the gauges.
Added an exhaust extension and cap.
Made a gasket and bolted the muffler to the exhaust manifold.
Tightened the loose fan belt. The radiator hoses seem good.
Added screens on the air holes. (We have mud daubers here in TX.)
Both fuel pumps make noise and seem to work.

I am still looking for a cheap control cover, door latch, and a cover for the 24V plug.

So, the current status is this:
View attachment 903165View attachment 903166
View attachment 903185View attachment 903193View attachment 903186View attachment 903187View attachment 903188View attachment 903189View attachment 903190View attachment 903191
View attachment 903183View attachment 903184View attachment 903182View attachment 903180

I am running the 803A on 120/240 1PH. I have a Kill A Watt meter on each leg.
So, I was able to fire it up and it seems to run well with the smoke clear after starting. It vibrates some, but I don't know how much is normal for these generators.
At idle, it runs at a stable frequency and an oil pressure of just over 40. The temp came up to 160 or so. The batteries were charging at like 27V I believe.

1. So the first problem, is I measure the frequency output and set it to 60Hz, but the Frequency gauge is maxed out at 65 (the adjustment dial doesn't help), and it wanders around. Sometimes 63 up to max on the gauge. However the output us sold at 60Hz on the meters. Is this an issue with frequency transducer? I have downloaded the TMs, but I have not had a chance to figure out how to test it yet. Can these be repaired or do they have to be replaced?

View attachment 903198
I wired up some plugs and connected all my 120V heaters to the 803A, keeping them fairly balanced. I worked it up slowly to 100% on the gauge, doing about 15-30 mins around 25%, 50%, and 75% load. I then ran it at 105% on the gauge for an hour or so.
Oil pressure dipped to around 30 but did not drop any lower. Is that normal?
The temp came up to about 170, but I never saw any change in the overflow bottle level. Do I need a new radiator cap or is this normal?

2. So second problem. I said 105% on the load gauge, but my meter registered only around 37A on L1 and 39A on L3, with around 2A on N. Shouldn't 100% be 41.7A on each leg for this 10KW 803A? Is the gauge out of calibration or am I missing something?

3. Also, while running the test, the voltage kept jumping around on L1. L3 was a bit high but solid and stable at 123V. L1 fluctuated from 111V to 119V, it seemed to stay low mostly, then jump up 6 or 7 volts suddenly. I am not sure where to look for this problem. What would cause L1 to fluctuate while L3 is stable?

Other than that, when I took out the oil dipstick while running, there was some pulsing pressure, but I could hold it with my finger easily. It did splatter some oil though. I looked in the oil cap after running and there was some smoke or steam inside, but nothing billowed out or anything. I am not clear on the blow-by issue that some people mentioned, but I think I am ok?

I'll try to add a video of it running and the voltage jump.

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thank you!

- Christopher

1. There is a test procedure in the TM. It involves placing an ammeter inline with the frequency gauge and comparing results. This will tell you if the gauge is wandering or the transducer.

2. The 803a is a 10kW generator with a 0.8 power factor, meaning full rated amperage is 52 amps at 240 volts. The load gauge is called the Percent Rated Current gauge, so it only monitors current, regardless of power factor. 100% is 52 amps (12,500 watts at 1.0 pf). I own 4 PRC gauges and none of them are accurate. My 803a measures 80% load at 48 amps.

3. Have you measured actual voltage output? This sounds like a problem with dirty contacts in the S6 or S8 switches. Grab some Deoxit and spray out the switches and exercise them a lot. The voltage gauge measures actual voltage, you can throw a meter on the output lugs, then the meter and compare results for stability.

As for oil pressure, again don't trust the gauges yet, place a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the engine's port and compare to the gauge. It is possible your pressure is a little low. 3100 hrs is not trivial, but there are units with 3 or 4 times that many hrs. The rebuild tag is interesting, but I can't help you there, however I am suspicious of resets, quality of reset varies. What is your oil pressure when the engine is cold? Normal is 50-60 psi, then they drop to 45-50 psi when warmed up. 30 psi warmed up is low, but not dead. Warmed up refers to oil temperature, not water as indicated on the panel. Oil takes longer to hit operating temp and can be higher than water temp when the engine is working hard.

Your water temp is a little low. Normal is 180-195F. All my machines settle out at 195F.

 

[Pirotess]

For the percent load did you put a known load on it and adjust it first (31.25 amps on each leg and adjust needle to exactly 75% mark on dial?) also for the voltage drop I'm curious if one of the heaters kicks on and off after it gets a certain temp...you can just barely see what looks like a load drop/gain in line with the voltage drop and gain...You said L3 was stable and L1 fluctuated, did you swap the load on L3 to L1 and L1 to L3 and then see if L3 fluctuated to rule out one of the heaters kicking on and off? I know if I run my drier for example it kicks the heating element on and off every minute or so.

For the oil pressure I'm not a mechanic so someone else can answer but I will say on my 803a that I have never seen it get lower than 42 psi (actually had 8 hour power outage last night and was at 42 psi after running 8 hours), it seems just from general knowledge (again wait on real mech) that 30 psi is on the lowest level of "OK" there is meaning something is prolly going on, also on my unit I have no "steam/smoke" if I remove the oil fill cap after running and I can remove the dipstick and nothing sprays out and no smoke there either, no humanly noticeable pressure with finger over hole.

P.S. I'm jealous you got that for $500 less than I paid for mine lol

I don't have any way to put a calibrated load on it, but as I mentioned, at like 105% it was reading about 37A on L1 and 39A on L3 with my good clamp meter. Should I just adjust the dial based on the amps..? Or is there a power factor or something affecting it that derates it?

I haven't tried switching the loads for L1 and L3. I will have to try that, but I believe the heaters were all constant as they were all set to full on and I did not notice anything going off. I don't understand how that would pull down the voltage like that though... I notice the amps drop when one cut off for some reason. I don't really understand why the two sides would be unbalanced like that.

A bit worried about the oil pressure now... I'll try not to run it too long.
Is there no light pulsing pressure coming out of the oil dipstick while yours runs? I figured it might be just the pistons moving causing it. Or that blow-by issue. Not sure.

 

[Icesythe7]

I don't have any way to put a calibrated load on it, but as I mentioned, at like 105% it was reading about 37A on L1 and 39A on L3 with my good clamp meter. Should I just adjust the dial based on the amps..? Or is there a power factor or something affecting it that derates it?

I haven't tried switching the loads for L1 and L3. I will have to try that, but I believe the heaters were all constant as they were all set to full on and I did not notice anything going off. I don't understand how that would pull down the voltage like that though... I notice the amps drop when one cut off for some reason. I don't really understand why the two sides would be unbalanced like that.

A bit worried about the oil pressure now... I'll try not to run it too long.
Is there no light pulsing pressure coming out of the oil dipstick while yours runs? I figured it might be just the pistons moving causing it. Or that blow-by issue. Not sure.

This is the testing and calibration procedure for the ammeter


Just did a cold start and test of oil psi on my machine
from cold start oil PSI = 61
once warmed up it stabilizes and doesn't drop lower than 42-45 PSI
can feel very slight pulsing from oil cap when removed and oil dipstick but it is very light and there is no smoke out of either while running or right after shutoff

TM says low oil pressure will shut down system at 15psi...you can also double check the sender to ensure it is within spec (my coolant sender works but reads low tested and was out of spec per the TM's so have another ordered)

 

[Pirotess]

1. There is a test procedure in the TM. It involves placing an ammeter inline with the frequency gauge and comparing results. This will tell you if the gauge is wandering or the transducer.

2. The 803a is a 10kW generator with a 0.8 power factor, meaning full rated amperage is 52 amps at 240 volts. The load gauge is called the Percent Rated Current gauge, so it only monitors current, regardless of power factor. 100% is 52 amps (12,500 watts at 1.0 pf). I own 4 PRC gauges and none of them are accurate. My 803a measure 80% load at 48 amps.

3. Have you measured actual voltage output? This sounds like a problem with dirty contacts in the S6 or S8 switches. Grab some Deoxit and spray out the switches and exercise them a lot. The voltage gauge measures actual voltage, you can throw a meter on the output lugs, then the meter and compare results for stability.

As for oil pressure, again don't trust the gauges yet, place a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the engine's port and compare to the gauge. Is is possible your pressure is a little low. 3100 hrs is not trivial, but there are units with 3 or 4 times that many hrs. The rebuild tag is interesting, but I can't help you there, however I am suspicious of resets, quality of reset varies. What is your oil pressure when the engine is cold? Normal is 50-60 psi, then they drop to 45-50 psi when warmed up. 30 psi warmed up is low, but not dead. Warmed up refers to oil temperature, not water as indicated on the panel. Oil takes longer to hit operating temp and can be higher than water temp when the engine is working hard.

Your water temp is a little low. Normal is 180-195F. All my machines settle out at 195F.

1. Ok, I am reading about that test I believe and need to try it.

2. The PRC goes to 120%, so 100% is 52A and 120% would be like 62A or 15KW?
Do you just adjust the gauge dial or is there some kind of related part that is bad?


3. I am measuring the actual output voltages on L1 and L3. Frequency is stable, but L1 voltage fluctuates. L3 voltage is stable. I would have to get some deoxit and see about those switches, I haven't tried that. Nothing to do with the Voltage Regulator though? I hope not...

I don't have an oil pressure gauge, but maybe I can find one from NAPA. The oil gauge when cold and just starting is just over 40. It points to the 0. After working it up and then running it at 37A L1/39A L3 for an hour, the oil gauge dropped to like 30. The videos were taken after loading it for an hour. The oil should have been hot by then.

The radiator temperature works up to around 160 when idle. It was around 170 in the video. I have never seen it as high as 180-195.
The radiator looked full of green coolant, so I didn't bother messing with it. Should it be flushed perhaps? Maybe a different thermostat is installed?

Thank you for the help!

 

[Icesythe7]

The radiator temperature works up to around 160 when idle. It was around 170 in the video. I have never seen it as high as 180-195.
The radiator looked full of green coolant, so I didn't bother messing with it. Should it be flushed perhaps? Maybe a different thermostat is installed?

Reply to the radiator coolant part I didn't originally flush mine but my meter read low on the second run (first run read 190 every run after that even at full load wouldn't read above 135) did a radiator flush and new coolant and new thermostat (180 duralast 15358 is what i used per the tm specs) flushed radiator and alot of sand came out so ended up flushing it 3 times till no more sand came out and then it actually ran a bit cooler never getting above 130 on the dial..retested the sender per the TM testing procedure and it had gone bad...so yes I would suggest a new thermostat and flush especially since that is pretty cheap

 

[Digger556]

1. Ok, I am reading about that test I believe and need to try it.

2. The PRC goes to 120%, so 100% is 52A and 120% would be like 62A or 15KW?
Do you just adjust the gauge dial or is there some kind of related part that is bad?

3. I am measuring the actual output voltages on L1 and L3. Frequency is stable, but L1 voltage fluctuates. L3 voltage is stable. I would have to get some deoxit and see about those switches, I haven't tried that.

I don't have an oil pressure gauge, but maybe I can find one from NAPA. The oil gauge when cold and just starting is just over 40. It points to the 0. After working it up and then running it at 37/39A for an hour, the oil gauge dropped to like 30. The videos were taken after loading it for an hour. The oil should have been hot by then.

The radiator temperature works up to around 160 when idle. It was around 170 in the video. I have never seen it as high as 180-195.
The radiator looked full of green coolant, so I didn't bother messing with it. Should it be flushed perhaps? Maybe a different thermostat is installed?

Thank you for the help!

2. Gauge is likely bad. You can also verify this by placing an ammeter inline with the PRC gauge. Full gauge reading (133%) equals 1 amp AC through the gauge contacts. 100% load would equal 0.75 amp AC, etc, etc

3. Try the Deoxit first. The voltage regulator senses voltage on L3-N and energizes the field coil accordingly. They other 2 phases basically follow along. That is why it's important to keep the phases in balance or voltages can stray. If your L3 is stable, then your regulator is good, but either the wiring or contacts associated with L1 are damaged or dirty.

I'm guessing your oil pressure is actually low. 30 psi is not great, but the engine will run on 30 psi.

You likely need a new thermostat, but again, verify the gauge is correct. The radiator should stay full of coolant, the overflow bottle will only change level if the coolant expands beyond what the radiator can carry. When the engine cools, the coolant will be pulled back into the radiator.

 

[Pirotess]

This is the testing and calibration procedure for the ammeter
View attachment 903227

Just did a cold start and test of oil psi on my machine
from cold start oil PSI = 61
once warmed up it stabilizes and doesn't drop lower than 42-45 PSI
can feel very slight pulsing from oil cap when removed and oil dipstick but it is very light and there is no smoke out of either while running or right after shutoff

TM says low oil pressure will shut down system at 15psi...you can also double check the sender to ensure it is within spec (my coolant sender works but reads low tested and was out of spec per the TM's so have another ordered)
View attachment 903228

Ok, thanks. Looks like I need to do some testing on the oil and coolant senders. Sounds like a coolant flush and new thermostat too.

 

[Icesythe7]

Ok, thanks. Looks like I need to do some testing on the oil and coolant senders. Sounds like a coolant flush and new thermostat too.

if you end up needing a coolant sender let me know they are kinda hard to get and i bought 4 of them because 1 + shipping was the same price as 4 with free shipping lol

 

[Pirotess]

2. Gauge is likely bad. You can also verify this by placing an ammeter inline with the PRC gauge. Full gauge reading (133%) equals 1 amp AC through the gauge contacts. 100% load would equal 0.75 amp AC, etc, etc

3. Try the Deoxit first. The voltage regulator senses voltage on L3-N and energizes the field coil accordingly. They other 2 phases basically follow along. That is why it's important to keep the phases in balance or voltages can stray. If your L3 is stable, then your regulator is good, but either the wiring or contacts associated with L1 are damaged or dirty.

I'm guessing your oil pressure is actually low. 30 psi is not great, but the engine will run on 30 psi.

You likely need a new thermostat, but again, verify the gauge is correct. The radiator should stay full of coolant, the overflow bottle will only change level if the coolant expands beyond what the radiator can carry. When the engine cools, the coolant will be pulled back into the radiator.

2. So if the gauge is bad, no way to fix except replace? Can you even find them?

3. Ok, I guess I should check wires too for anything loose. I gave it a quick check over before but didn't notice anything. The big Voltage Selector switch was sticky when I tried to turn it off 208V.

What would cause the oil low? Should I run SeaFoam in the oil? Replace with all ATF? Not sure where to look for that problem.

 

[Pirotess]

if you end up needing a coolant sender let me know they are kinda hard to get and i bought 4 of them because 1 + shipping was the same price as 4 with free shipping lol

Ok, thanks

 

[Digger556]

2. So if the gauge is bad, no way to fix except replace? Can you even find them?

3. Ok, I guess I should check wires too for anything loose. I gave it a quick check over before but didn't notice anything. The big Voltage Selector switch was sticky when I tried to turn it off 208V.

What would cause the oil low? Should I run SeaFoam in the oil? Replace with all ATF? Not sure where to look for that problem.

2. Unless you understand the inner workings of the gauge and could build one from scratch, i doubt it can be fixed. I haven't given't up on a couple of mine, but that is a challenge for a later date. Members here might have one tucked away. Ebay is another source.

All things being equal and correct, low oil pressure is a typical symptom of worn bearings. However, given the issues people have with the pressure relief, including myself, I would look at that first. Also verify you are using the correct oil weight. (15W-40)

 

[Pirotess]

2. Unless you understand the inner workings of the gauge and could build one from scratch, i doubt it can be fixed. I haven't given't up on a couple of mine, but that is a challenge for a later date. Members here might have one tucked away. Ebay is another source.

All things being equal and correct, low oil pressure is a typical symptom of worn bearings. However, given the issues people have with the pressure relief, including myself, I would look at that first. Also verify you are using the correct oil weight. (15W-40)

3. Like I said, someone ran it with the muffler unbolted, so a light layer of soot is everywhere. I could see that perhaps getting in the contacts of S6 or S8. I don't exactly see how you would get the cleaner inside though, it looks pretty sealed up..? Do you just spray the outside and hope it seeps in? I haven't used that Deoxit before...

4. Oil pressure.
I just drained put in a fresh jug of 15-40 diesel oil and all air/oil/fuel filters when I was fixing it up, so that is good.
I remember reading a post about a pressure relief one the oil pump. You have to open up the crankcase side to get to that I believe...?
I'll test the sender first before I do that. Then maybe try a can of seafoam. Or would switching the oil to ATF be better? I read something about blending it or doing straight ATF... I didn't really get it.

Thank you!

 

[rickf]

You are headed in a bad direction with the oil!!!!!! I wish I had gotten to you before you drained the old oil. You really needed to have that oil sent out and analyzed and that would tell you the condition of the inside of the engine. But whatever you do do NOT run straight ATF as oil!!! That is for arctic use below zero only and there are also better oils then ATF that are actually made for engines. ATF is hydraulic oil. You need to run the specified oil in the engine. I don't have the manual in front of me but I am pretty sure the military ran 15W-40 diesel motor oil in everything. I prefer Rotella but whatever you use be sure it is a name brand and not the El Cheapo store brand.

 

[Light in the Dark]

It looks to me that the rivets on the tag have been replaced... so that data plate is probably from a wrecked machine and put on to keep the inventory guys happy (there are wear indications on all four corners of each data plate in question). You may find small stickers on sheet metal panels elsewhere in the machine that have a date on them, or see if there are any production dates on any components, switches, etc. May be a detail you never know... but past the original manufacture date, all signs point to it having been rebuilt in 06 (plate and stenciling) so run with that.

IF the hertz and voltage are rock steady by other modern measurement means, its the transducers or the gauges. If the voltage moved, and the gauge moved, I would suspect a VR thats on its way out. The little flat head provision on the front of each gauge allows for fine tuning... don't mess with it until you have removed the transducers from the equation (they are fine adjustment, not coarse).

Yes deoxidize every contact, terminal board, switch (with the batteries disconnected) and exercise all switches till you are bored, then keep going. It will only help.

I second the mechanical oil pressure gauge, so you know for certain. You may need a new T-stat (or one at all.. Ive had machines come in with no thermostat in place). The oil pump is mechanically driven, so any pressure is good... 40s not super low, but not super high either.

There is no issue running a full crankcase of ATF for 30-1hr, then dumping and putting in new 15W-40, if you suspect stuck rings. Straight ATF, not mixed with oil.

If you need gauges, gauge cover, etc, I may be able to assist. Good luck in the work ahead.

 

[WWRD99]

3. Like I said, someone ran it with the muffler unbolted, so a light layer of soot is everywhere. I could see that perhaps getting in the contacts of S6 or S8. I don't exactly see how you would get the cleaner inside though, it looks pretty sealed up..? Do you just spray the outside and hope it seeps in? I haven't used that Deoxit before...

4. Oil pressure.
I just drained put in a fresh jug of 15-40 diesel oil and all air/oil/fuel filters when I was fixing it up, so that is good.
I remember reading a post about a pressure relief one the oil pump. You have to open up the crankcase side to get to that I believe...?
I'll test the sender first before I do that. Then maybe try a can of seafoam. Or would switching the oil to ATF be better? I read something about blending it or doing straight ATF... I didn't really get it.

Thank you!

If you know any auto techs see if you can borrow a oil gage from them. Most of the cheap ones are not very accurate like hf or napa all come from the same place. I have some very old american made ones that are spot on. Take 30 minutes or so to get a good hot reading and give it back!! Once you find what oil pressure you really have then you can take what, if any, action needed. Get a thermo gun to see what your coolant is. They are nice to have for checking the exhaust temps to see how the engine is running fuel wise as well.

 

[Light in the Dark]

If you know any auto techs see if you can borrow a oil gage from them. Most of the cheap ones are not very accurate like hf or napa all come from the same place. I have some very old american made ones that are spot on. Take 30 minutes or so to get a good hot reading and give it back!! Once you find what oil pressure you really have then you can take what, if any, action needed. Get a thermo gun to see what your coolant is. They are nice to have for checking the exhaust temps to see how the engine is running fuel wise as well.

A mechanical gauge can also be added at the oil pressure sender... I did it on my machine, based off info in this forum. Under $100 for all parts, including the gauge (precovid)... knowing for certain your pressure is a no brainer investment to me.

 

[WWRD99]

A mechanical gauge can also be added at the oil pressure sender... I did it on my machine, based off info in this forum. Under $100 for all parts, including the gauge (precovid)... knowing for certain your pressure is a no brainer investment to me.

View attachment 903248
View attachment 903249

That's the perfect place to put one for sure!! Finding a quality gauge is always interesting. I have the automotive style that has the long hose so it can be popped up under a wiper arm when driving. I don't use them much anymore though. I assume to install that it is a few 1/4 inch pipe threaded attachments.