First start up of MEP-003

Sturgis7754 · Jan 26, 2020

I am looking for ideas for the first start up of O03. Don’t know any history other than been setting in a farm field and had vines and the like grow all over it . I read on here that one member filled one with ATF, and another used John Deere break In oil. Anything in particular I should watch or listen for at start up. Thanks for any help. Sturgis7754

rickf · Jan 26, 2020

Drain the oil and fill it with quality 15W40 diesel motor oil. I have no idea why anyone would want to run ATF in a diesel that has not run for years and is going to start at full rpm!!! Also drain any old fuel out and clean all the fuel filters and out in clean fuel. Personally I would pull out the glow plugs and spin it over to build oil pressure and spin it for 20-30 seconds a few times like that before putting the plugs back in. Disconnect the fuel pumps before doing this so you do not overload the cylinders with fuel. If you cannot get the glow plugs out then disconnect the pumps and crank it for 15 seconds at a time and let it rest so you don't fry the starter. Watch for oil pressure. Once you get oil pressure hook up the pumps and go through the normal starting procedure. One other thing I would do is to pull all of the shrouds off and make sure there are no nests blocking airflow in either the engine or the generator so it does not overheat.

Guyfang · Jan 26, 2020

Pull the cover off the AC box, look inside for mouse high rises. Rick has it right, you can turn it over without fuel, to get some oil flowing in the engine. What have you done so far to get the set ready? Clean the fuel system? Make sure the batteries are up to snuff. First time starting, use preheat. Can't hurt. Do not idle this set. It's made to run at 60 hertz.

Sturgis7754 · Jan 26, 2020

rickf said:
Drain the oil and fill it with quality 15W40 diesel motor oil. I have no idea why anyone would want to run ATF in a diesel that has not run for years and is going to start at full rpm!!! Also drain any old fuel out and clean all the fuel filters and out in clean fuel. Personally I would pull out the glow plugs and spin it over to build oil pressure and spin it for 20-30 seconds a few times like that before putting the plugs back in. Disconnect the fuel pumps before doing this so you do not overload the cylinders with fuel. If you cannot get the glow plugs out then disconnect the pumps and crank it for 15 seconds at a time and let it rest so you don't fry the starter. Watch for oil pressure. Once you get oil pressure hook up the pumps and go through the normal starting procedure. One other thing I would do is to pull all of the shrouds off and make sure there are no nests blocking airflow in either the engine or the generator so it does not overheat.

Thank you for responding. The article about the ATF, said ATF has good rust dissolvers in it and good cleaning agents. I would think one might use a quart mixed in regular oil maybe, just a few minutes. I am going to follow your instructions, I believe that may be best. Thanks again for your help. Sturgis7754

Sturgis7754 · Jan 26, 2020

Guyfang said:
Pull the cover off the AC box, look inside for mouse high rises. Rick has it right, you can turn it over without fuel, to get some oil flowing in the engine. What have you done so far to get the set ready? Clean the fuel system? Make sure the batteries are up to snuff. First time starting, use preheat. Can't hurt. Do not idle this set. It's made to run at 60 hertz.

Working on fuel tank, next pumps and filters, then the batteries will be coming. It will be awhile before I turn her over, thanks to you guys. I am getting good info to work from. Thanks Sturgis7754

jamawieb · Jan 26, 2020

After you get the fuel system cleaned, try to move the throttle linkage on the injector pump up, I'm betting its not going to move. The plunger inside the pump always gets gummed up and if its at the lowest position when starting, it will break the plunger guide. Then you have to disassemble the pump to replace the guide. I always fill the last fuel filter canister with acetone or carb cleaner, then turn the fuel pumps on. As the fuel starts mixing with the acetone start rotating the engine over by hand while moving the throttle linkage up and down. You can also take the large nut off (in between the hard fuel lines), then remove the cap, spring, and other pieces to gain a view of the top of the plunger, then rotate the motor over by hand and see if the plunger moves in and out (if it moves in and out you're good). You can use a brass punch to hit the plunger if its stuck in the high position, to move it. Worse case, you may have to pull the pump off to clean it.

rickf · Jan 27, 2020

I, nor anyone else, even asked how many hours were on this unit. You really do not want to loosen up a whole bunch of crap in the engine all at once because it is just going to circulate through the bearings and clog the filter. All modern oils have a good detergent package in them and they did back when these sets were in use so if it was even halfway cared for it will be pretty clean inside. I personally use Rotella 15W-40 in all my diesels. I have never, ever had an oil related failure. One of my Ford Powerstroke diesels has 480,000 miles on it and counting. The main thing you have to worry about from sitting is condensation in the engine. When you drain the oil look for and sign of water when you first open the drain. On most things I buy I will change the oil and filter before I even start it and then after running it a short time I will change the oil and filter again. That way I know for sure that the oil in there is clean and free of moisture.

Sturgis7754 · Jan 27, 2020

rickf said:
I, nor anyone else, even asked how many hours were on this unit. You really do not want to loosen up a whole bunch of crap in the engine all at once because it is just going to circulate through the bearings and clog the filter. All modern oils have a good detergent package in them and they did back when these sets were in use so if it was even halfway cared for it will be pretty clean inside. I personally use Rotella 15W-40 in all my diesels. I have never, ever had an oil related failure. One of my Ford Powerstroke diesels has 480,000 miles on it and counting. The main thing you have to worry about from sitting is condensation in the engine. When you drain the oil look for and sign of water when you first open the drain. On most things I buy I will change the oil and filter before I even start it and then after running it a short time I will change the oil and filter again. That way I know for sure that the oil in there is clean and free of moisture.

Thank you for your reply rickf. I have no idea how many hours are on this machine. The date on the machines plate is 86. I am trying to find and buy the spin on adapter, I have seen on this SS sight, so far no luck. I would definitely drain the oil and put on new filter. How long a period would you suggest running it, then changing again? Thank you for your help. Sturgis7754

Ray70 · Jan 27, 2020

Jamaweib's suggestion about the throttle linkage and the Plunger guide on these machines is critical. Make absolutely sure the linkage moves freely and take off the cap and delivery valve and move the plunger as he said.
You can also spray carb or brake cleaner in there to help dissolve any gum or varnish that has formed.
Crank the engine over with a breaker bar and 5/8" socket on the crank bolt and be sure that plunger is moving freely. It will save you from having to remove and rebuild the injection pump due to breaking the plunger guide.

After you clean out your fuel tank, check the bottom before adding fuel, make sure it doesn't have any pin holes in it near the drain valve, from water in the tank.

robertsears1 · Jan 27, 2020

Also when it comes time to actually get it running, these start different than any other engines in my experience. You need to hold the switch in start even after it is running for at least 15 seconds. On my 003, I have to hold it at least 20” after start. It will not hurt anything if things are adjusted correctly and it is required to flash the field so it will generate electricity. It will feel very strange initially. If you have prior experience with military generators, you should be used to this requirement.

Robert

Guyfang · Jan 27, 2020

Sturgis7754 said:
Thank you for responding. The article about the ATF, said ATF has good rust dissolvers in it and good cleaning agents. I would think one might use a quart mixed in regular oil maybe, just a few minutes. I am going to follow your instructions, I believe that may be best. Thanks again for your help. Sturgis7754

There is a time and a place for ATF. Not for you Sturgis, but there is a time and a place. When a gen set came back from down range, often with low oil pressure, positive pressure on the crank case, bad response and so on, we indeed ran the sets for a half hour with ATF. This was a CECOM approved maintenance procedure. It often helped.

rickf · Jan 27, 2020

Guyfang said:
There is a time and a place for ATF. Not for you Sturgis, but there is a time and a place. When a gen set came back from down range, often with low oil pressure, positive pressure on the crank case, bad response and so on, we indeed ran the sets for a half hour with ATF. This was a CECOM approved maintenance procedure. It often helped.

And if it didn't the engine was toast anyway so nothing harmed. Plus, in that scenario it was not the private citizen with limited access to obsolete parts that was working on it. If it was toast the Government just tossed it and put a new on on line.

Chainbreaker · Jan 27, 2020

Sturgis7754 said:
...I am trying to find and buy the spin on adapter, I have seen on this SS sight, so far no luck.

If you do a search on eBay using "MEP-003a spin on oil filter adapter" there is one that will come up mfg'd by Tempco. Haven't used it myself but should work just fine although a bit pricey IMO.

Sturgis7754 · Jan 27, 2020

Guyfang said:
Pull the cover off the AC box, look inside for mouse high rises. Rick has it right, you can turn it over without fuel, to get some oil flowing in the engine. What have you done so far to get the set ready? Clean the fuel system? Make sure the batteries are up to snuff. First time starting, use preheat. Can't hurt. Do not idle this set. It's made to run at 60 hertz.

Thank you for your reply, I am working on fuel tank and filters, just wanted to get ideas about start up so I would have things ready when I get to start. Thanks Sturgis7754

Sturgis7754 · Jan 27, 2020

Chainbreaker said:
If you do a search on eBay using "MEP-003a spin on oil filter adapter" there is one that will come up mfg'd by Tempco. Haven't used it myself but should work just fine although a bit pricey IMO.

Thanks I will look into that. Thank you for your the info. Sturgis7754

Sturgis7754 · Jan 27, 2020

rickf said:
And if it didn't the engine was toast anyway so nothing harmed. Plus, in that scenario it was not the private citizen with limited access to obsolete parts that was working on it. If it was toast the Government just tossed it and put a new on on line.

Thanks for the info. I now have an explanation as to why the ATF. I was in a M48A1 tank, we never had generators.Sturgis7754

Sturgis7754 · Jan 27, 2020

robertsears1 said:
Also when it comes time to actually get it running, these start different than any other engines in my experience. You need to hold the switch in start even after it is running for at least 15 seconds. On my 003, I have to hold it at least 20” after start. It will not hurt anything if things are adjusted correctly and it is required to flash the field so it will generate electricity. It will feel very strange initially. If you have prior experience with military generators, you should be used to this requirement.

Robert

Thank you for your reply. No experience on generators, but, I down loaded the manual and had read about the start up process, did seem strange to me, because a couple of videos that I have run across, the people just released the switch when it fired. I am just hoping I don’t die of old age before I can get this baby to run. Sturgis7754

Sturgis7754 · Jan 27, 2020

Ray70 said:
Jamaweib's suggestion about the throttle linkage and the Plunger guide on these machines is critical. Make absolutely sure the linkage moves freely and take off the cap and delivery valve and move the plunger as he said.
You can also spray carb or brake cleaner in there to help dissolve any gum or varnish that has formed.
Crank the engine over with a breaker bar and 5/8" socket on the crank bolt and be sure that plunger is moving freely. It will save you from having to remove and rebuild the injection pump due to breaking the plunger guide.

After you clean out your fuel tank, check the bottom before adding fuel, make sure it doesn't have any pin holes in it near the drain valve, from water in the tank.

Thanks for your info. I have fuel tank in electrolysis now, then going to use red kote to line it. The fuel shut off selenoid will move up with a screw driver on the plunger, so not certain if it works or not. I will be sure to check on that plunger. When I do pull the injector pump down, got any idea what to torque that big plug back to? All you guys are just great, thanks.Sturgis7754

Guyfang · Jan 28, 2020

rickf said:
And if it didn't the engine was toast anyway so nothing harmed. Plus, in that scenario it was not the private citizen with limited access to obsolete parts that was working on it. If it was toast the Government just tossed it and put a new on on line.

And now you know how the RESET program came to be. Too much equipment coming back from down range trashed. Units spending way too much time and money, with untrained folks doing the "repairs". The same could be said for some RESET programs I saw in operation. By and large, RESET works. But it had a long row to hoe, at times.

Ray70 · Jan 28, 2020

On the torque of the cap over the delivery valve, it is just that, a cap. It is on there pretty tight, but I generally put them back on using a 1/2" socket wrench and 15/16" socket, hand tight plus an additional smack with the side of my fist, but the pump repair manual says 50-55Ft/lbs, then loosen and retighten to 60-65 Ft/lbs

First start up of MEP-003

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