First Time Buyer - M101A2 - Need Advice

[Disciple]

I'm seriously considering bidding on a M101A2 up for auction about 2 hours north of me, I think it would be a great fit for my line of work (Concrete & Masonry) and a perfect addition to my M1008, but have never seen one of these trailers in person. I've done about as much research on them as I can, as well as the bidding/purchasing process through GL, but would really appreciate any experience/advice anyone is willing to share.

Primarily, I'd like advice on the recovery process. Any issues the trailer has, aside from not being able to tow it home safely when I get there, I can address after I get it home. What are some "typical" or "known" issues to look out for with these trailers that might stop me from being able to tow it home? What are the basic things I should check when I get there?

Don't tell the local LEO's know but I was hoping to just get it home quickly and quietly with no plates on it, then worry about getting it licensed after it's home. On that note though, how tough is it usually to get these things licensed? I know it varies by state, but is there any paperwork I will need, or that would help the process?

My uncle has a big flatbed trailer I can use to bring this thing back on if needed, but I'd really just prefer to back up to it, hook 'er up, and drag it home. My M1008 still has the NATO electrical plug in the back, not sure if it works or not though. Any advice on lights? Brakes? Jacks? Wheels & Tires? Etc?

What tools/equipment/supplies should I bring with me when I go up there?

Thanks a lot guys! As always, you're a big help!

 

[MWMULES]

I have had 2800 pounds of AB3 in one and did not squat the springs. For inspection look for these, ost A2's up you way have the jack landing leg, you want that if you want to uncouple by yourself, also check for the rear stabilizer leg,(folds up under the back) if you have too much weight on the rear it will keep it from "popping a wheely" went unhooked. Look under to make sure none of the frame is rotted, wheel bearings have been the only problem I have had and usually on the older A1. If you tow make sure none of the teeth are showing on the brake away device. Remove master cyl cap, should be full of Dot5 brake. Check the lower front seam of the tub, it is the first place to rot. If you care about tarp and bow, look for fiberglass wood and metal bows. Lift up the rear flap stick you head in and look up, if it looks like a starlit night, not a good tarp. It really pays to go up and inspect.

 

[m16ty]

A2's up you way have the jack landing leg, you want that if you want to uncouple by yourself

I'm pretty sure the M101A2 doesn't have a jack landing leg. I know the two I've had didn't have them.

 

[DavidB]

I have two A3s and two A2s all have crank landing legs .New or rebuilt from the 90s.Best to inspect if possible.Good luck.
DavidB

 

[Milbikes]

I just recovered one today. It looked really good in the pictures. I almost decided to bring spare wheels and tools and just tow it home. I brought a car trailer instead, and glad I did. The wheels would not turn at all. I dragged it around the lot, and the wheels would only turn in reverse. The fluid in the master cylinder is more like mud. The breakaway device was not tripped, and the lunette was not stuck in the brake position. After the 3 1/2 hour ride home, when I went to take it off the tailer........it rolled!?!? Go figure. Upon quick inspection, of the four bolts underneath that hold the brake master/lunette ring to the frame, two were sort of tight, one was finger loose, and one was missing. I took the loose one out, and put it in the hole of the missing bolt, and it doesn't thread in like it should. All of these features made the trailer a "no-go" for a tow home. I would not have had the time, materials and opportunity to make all those repairs in the lot. Also, the tires were low on air, and one looks like it is too cracked for safe highway use. I can only imagine what would happened if I was towing it home (Unregistered) and the lunette broke off, or a wheel locked solid. I plan to avoid trouble, rather than just hoping I can avoid it. now if you could closely inspect yours before you bid, and determine that it is road worthy, you could "roll the dice" and hope you made it home without a latte-slurping text messaging kid involving you in an accident while towing an unlicensed trailer.... They sure are nice trailers, and built like a brick house! Mine has a sticker saying something about shipping from Kuwait. Good luck with yours! H.

 

[m16ty]

I have two A3s and two A2s all have crank landing legs .New or rebuilt from the 90s.Best to inspect if possible.Good luck.
DavidB

Ok, I went and looked at the selection of A2s on GL. It looks like some have the crank legs and some do not. IMO it's not that big of a deal on a M101 but it's almost a must on a M105.

 

[Disciple]

Wow, thanks for all the input guys, keep it coming. I guess it would be worth the 4 hours on the road just to go take a peek around the lot first. The pics look good, but there's a WHOLE lot I can't see from the pics. Do I just call GL and schedule a time to go look? Are they usually pretty cool about this?

 

[MWMULES]

Do I just call GL and schedule a time to go look? Are they usually pretty cool about this?

Yep just call the site # on the auction page. Usually I have the best luck getting a person 8 to 9 am. Make sure you don't have guns in car, but have photo ID, proof of insurance to get on base. Bring clip board take good notes, they start to blur after 4 or 5.

 

[Disciple]

Make sure you don't have guns in car, but have photo ID....

LOL Do we know each other??? Good advice, that would be a really long ride home for no good reason!!!

 

[Barrman]

As mentioned above. Something that looks good might not be road ready until you take it apart and make sure. I bought my 101 for the then minimum bid of $50 because it was ugly, rusty, no paint and 1 flat tire while the other tire had a huge chunk out of it but still held air. It got to ride home.

Turns out the bearings had brand new grease in them. The brake fluid was clear as could be, new shoes and wheel cylinders too. It just needed a pair of tires before it was road ready.

I have helped bring home 101A3 trailers that looked perfect but had dry masters and locked up parking brakes. The cool factor of driving or dragging your new toy home is something that should be suppressed if you have a way to trailer it.

 

[Disciple]

Thanks Barrman, I don't know that I'm going for the "cool" factor, just the "ease" factor. I'm lazy! I suppose bringing the flatbed just in case couldn't hurt. You reminded me of something though, if I get there and this thing is locked up tight, how am I going to get it up on the flatbed even? I have a High-Lift Jack I can use as a pulley, wouldn't mind getting a HD Come-Along or something too, but if those wheels won't turn at all, that could be a long coupla' hours getting that thing up a ramp with just two guys...

Thoughts?

 

[Disciple]

Was just snooping around GL. Will I need an SF97 for a trailer?

 

[porkysplace]

does the ad say no loadout assistance ? if not GL will probley load it with a forktruck .
But beware GL iis the master of destruction with frorktrucks

 

[Disciple]

Here's all I've been able to find in the ad:

Loadout Procedures: Load by appointment only within 10 business days of a paid in full invoice

 

[Barrman]

Yes, to get a title you need to pay them for the SF-97, wait for it to show up and then go pay the state for a title.

If there is no assistance, a come along winch hooked to the lunette ring will pull and or drag a non rolling trailer. They are light, around 1300 pounds. So, a come along will do it just fine. Depending on your ramp set up, non rolling tires might move the ramps with them. That is when the hi-lift jack comes in. They have about a 20 degree arc from straight up verticle. Put the base further under the trailer, pick up the back and let the come along pull it forward, repeat.

Something else to do is read the -10 manual for the trailer. They have the fluid brakes that activate when the lunette is pushed back. a 6" 3/8" pin will lock that out so you can push it backward. Plus, there is a hand parking brake for each side. Those could be rusted on. Just one of those situations where the manual really comes in handy.

 

[Milbikes]

I had to pull mine up on the trailer with a come-along. It was really difficult until both wheels were onto the ramps. I had to winch one side of the trailer, then the other side "walking" it up the ramps. I grabbed it by the axle, close to either side. I have short straps that loop around/through a loop eye, and then I attach the cable hook to the loop.