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First Time Hooking to Trailer

M818Runner

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Pittsburgh/Pennsylvania
I just recently won an M146 trailer from Lancing Michigan. Now I have to get the 818 prepared for a long haul out, about 360 miles and then the drive back.
I need to find out what size cable I am missing to hook up electrics to the tractor, it seems like an 8 foot cable will do? Also if you could tell me where to find the cable? I also was wondering if I am missing the piece that suspends the cable above the frame so it cant catch on anything?
If anyone has any other recommendations feel free to input them. The wire harness and suspension piece is just what came to my mind.

I will add pics of my truck and the trailer I am picking up

Any Help is appreciated
Thanks
Dan
 

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M818Runner

New member
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Pittsburgh/Pennsylvania
I think I paid higher 3's for the tractor and around 1000 for the trailer. It was a little more than I wanted to spend for the trailer but it looked too nice to pass up. And I think the tractor speaks for itself with how it looks. I already got to use it too, pulling a stuck tri axle out. I plan to make the trailer into a camper so it should suit my needs perfectly.
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
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Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
Runner,

That will be a nice rig to bring to a rally.

The IV cable is about 8 feet long.

The "pogo stick" is the post that allows the air lines and IV cable to ride off the deck of the tractor. It is spring loaded and will bend and flex to allow sharp turns.

Remember that these trailers have air over hydrolic brakes.

To couple to the trailer chock the wheels of the trailer, back almost under the trailer and stop, set brakes on tractor.

Get out and hook up air hoses (make sure the Service and Emergency lines are connected to the right gladhands on the trailer).

Make sure the air lines are turned on. Apply air to trailer by pulling down the trailer brake
lever, this will apply the trailer brakes and hold it fast while you back under it.

Make sure trailer is at a good level to back under and the 5th wheel has grease on it.

Back under the trailer until you feel a bump and hear a click. The 5th wheel release lever should move to the closed position.

With the trailer brake still applied put the tractor in forward gear and ease out on the clutch a little......if the trailer is locked on the kingpin you will not be able to pull out from under it and the engine will pull down.

Set the brakes and get out and remove chocks (if you are moving out).

Go under the trailer and look to make sure the kingpin is locked.

These vehicles are not like commercial trucks...there is no air brake release valves in the tractor.....the parking brake next to the drivers seat is all you have to hold the vehicle and load....great on flat ground but real iffy on a hill. Thats why you have wheel chocks.

Good luck and be careful until you get used to the rig.
 
Last edited:

rosco

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Delta Junction, Alaska
I know that it has been said already, but I will say it again: Be sure to raise the landing gear!!!!!

It is easy to forget to raise it. Many have been left down - they are hard to work later. Do a walk around, before you are ready to go. Remember too, that little trailer will cheat going around corners.

Lee in Alaska
 

fasttruck

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Mesa, AZ
The front of the trailer will be lower than the fifth wheel on the tractor with the landing legs cranked down. Not to worry; if you can get the ends of the ramps behind the fifth wheel on the tractor under the lip on the front of the trailer and the trailer is chocked and/or the brakes hold the trailer will ride up the tractor ramps and onto the fifth wheel. Falls off same same when uncoupling trailer from tractor.
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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I had issues with my M146, as the gladhands on the trailer point up, and there were no blanks on them, so both air lines running under the trailer to the MC were full of water.

There should be some gladhands with short hoses mounted under the trailer infront of the MC. Disconnect those, and hook the emergancy air line to both trailer lines, and open the valve to blow out the water. Then hook everything back up and test the brakes.

Cross your fingers that your brakes are ok. I had two bad wheel cylinders, and was only ever able to find one new one in 8 months of searching and calling around. I had to hone out the other one. It works but it leaks a little.

Good luck with the recovery, and if you can't find an 8ft cable I can ship you mine to use. I can't sell it to you as I need it, but your more than welcome to borrow it.

Another thing you could do is get a trailer pigtail and then buy a female trailer plug to wire into the other end. That should be long enough.

Hope that helps.
Adam
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
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GA Mountains
Sorry, I'm fresh out of I/V cables. Had several and gave several away netting me with 0. I need to keep track of what I have as I often give away my last one by mistake! Any number of major surplus dealers will have the I/V cable. I didn't see the pogo stick on your truck but did note coiled air hoses which are not common on MVs. Good luck with your recovery. Many moons ago I recovered an M146 with my M275A2 and they are a match made in heaven. The M275A2 is long gone but the M146 lives on as a storage shed in my neighbors yard. Shoulda kept it for myself.
 

papercu

Active member
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You didn't have to hookup a trailer when taking your CDL? You do have a CDL and insurance? Paperwork for stopping at weight stations? Wayne
 

EO2NMCB

Member
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DeSoto, MO
From a saftey point of view, is this your first time hooking to any type of trailer or just a military trailer to drive a TT combo? A unknown trailer, as far as road worthy, is not the time to be learning. If you haven driven tractor trailers before than disreguard my post. As for Non Commercial trucks, a CDL may not be needed, but I would check all the states that you will travel thru. " Ohio is not truck freindly!"
 

M818Runner

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Pittsburgh/Pennsylvania
Thanks everybody for the input I really appreciate it. I do have a CDL class B and the truck will be all legal as far as plates and insurance. I drive concrete mixers and dump trucks every day which has prepared me pretty well for tight spots and bad drivers. I figure I shouldnt need the class A because my weight should sneak by and I believe frodobaggins is correct I should not need it. As for trailering with a tractor this is the first time officially trailering but I am well prepared for it.

Thanks again
Dan
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
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Location
Mesa, AZ
Better upgrade licence to class a for this combination. Also m 146 trailer has a
landing leg crank for each leg so you have to go to both sides of the tailer to
crank both legs up. Don't leave one down !
 
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