Flipping around front axle shims - how to raise vehicle????

[Trango]

Hi Gang,

I am encountering an issue - with all of my jacks, and all of my tools, I am having issues lifting and supporting the weight of the vehicle, enough to permit swapping these shims.

I have a 48" high lift (I know, dangerous when misused), some LARGE jackstands, and the typical 3 ton floorjack.

Well, I am thinking about this process, and my best thoughts about process is to:

Place the floor jack under the axle, and lift the axle up approximately 8 inches
Weld a MASSIVE tripod out of HEAVY steel to hold the frame up at that position (with a safety chain to hold it in place)
Slowly lower the floor jack to articulate the suspension
Remove wheel if necessary to permit further lowering of axle.

Thoughts? Does anyone else have any special tricks?

Thanks
Bob

 

[55Cameo]

I built stands out of 4x4's. Just cut to length, cut a couple of 2x4's to make an 'x' on the bottom and one for a diag. brace. Screw them together. I also screwed a small 2x4 vertically at the top to screw it to the frame wherever I put it. Make a bunch of them to do the lift on my Deuce. A lot cheaper than steel, and you can take them apart easily afterwards.
Why are you flipping the shims anyway?

 

[Trango]

I need some front axle caster. This thing is unbearable at 0º - well, I am somewhat convinced, after driving it around with radials for a few years and being on the losing side of handling that makes a greased-pig look manageable, I think this is the ticket to steering that stays where you put it.

Thanks for your reply. Wood freaks me out, but it's good to hear this type of stand will work.

 

[chevycrew]

My process.

Chock wheels
Remove U-bolts on one side
Place floor jack with 4x4 block underneath the leaf spring just in front of the axle.
Lift spring up from axle till wedge can be removed
Place stand under leaf spring behind the axle to support the load
Lower jack to put pressure on stand
Now you can pull the wedge out, redrill and re-install
lower spring down on wedge
snug u-bolts to hold everything in place
repeat process on other side
when complete torque all u-bolts

 

[Trango]

I'm sitting here, smacking my forehead! This is a great solution - very elegant. Of course, you just need to take pressure off the shim, but not necessarily by letting the suspension droop. Thanks so much for posting!!!!!!!!!

 

[m-35tom]

don't forget to retorque the ubolts a couple of times. they will loosen up after some driving.
tom, with 3 1/2 deg caster.............

 

[55Cameo]

Those shims have about 3 1/2 degrees wedge to them. They are set up to have about 0 degrees total caster. If you flip the wedges around, you will have about 7 degrees total caster. You better have some pretty good power steering or you won't be able to turn the wheel when it is moving. I just pulled out my wedges last weekend and milled off 2 degrees and put them back to get some caster. Also, I think that putting that much caster would severely change your driveshaft angle at the axle, maybe even to much for the u-joint to handle. Just didn't want you to put that much caster in it without knowing and have to take it all apart again.

 

[gringeltaube]

Also take a look here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=17627&highlight=caster+angle

G.

 

[Trango]

Great points, gents, and gringel, again, great work with the link. I have a power steering unit all ready to go - I basically just need to get it mounted and plumbed (and make a bracket to mount the pump).

I'll finish tonight (I had to employ some time-consuming trickery to get one of the ubolts unfrozen from the bottom plate), and I'll post up what I see for caster (as well as any noted changes in steering effort).

 

[m-35tom]

looking at my front axle and the angle it is now at, you would think it is extreme. however it handles, steers, and the wheel returns very normaly, plus no noticeable tire wear.

 

[chevycrew]

Mine is sitting about -10 degrees. Since my front axle is in backwards, that puts my shims with the thick towards the BACK. I have to go the opposite way.

So I guess I need to use my own process this weekend and swap things around.

Any issues with re-drilling the shims?


See edit above

 

[55Cameo]

The shims come with the thick part towards the front since the flexible link is on the rear of the leaf spring it makes the axle sit flat or with approx. 0 degrees caster. If you flip it totally around, it will have about 7 degrees caster. If you have a good power steering this would probably be O.K. but without power assist of some kind I don't think that you would be able to steer with vehicle moving.(or without moving for that matter). In my opinion (and it is ONLY an opinion) you shouldn't have 7 degrees of caster, you should have them milled off slightly and re-install to give you about 2-3 degrees of caster. This would be enough for the 'return to center' feel. This would also take away the need to re-drill the shims and any driveshaft angle problems.

 

[chevycrew]

When mine is all said and done it will sit at 3 degrees, 10 degrees now, flip the shims will put me where i need to be.

Keep in mind this axle is installed backwards, so the shims and everything else is opposite. This weekends project is to swap the knuckles to get the tierod behind the axle again.


This is in my 99 chevy as well...

 

[Trango]

I just tried to throw an angle finder on the rig after swapping stuff around... and yes, it appears I'm near 8 degrees. It's a pretty serious angle but I am optimistic about being able to put power steering on it within the next few weeks.

By the way, the semi ruts around here are ferocious... if I can keep it at 7-8 degrees and make it super stable, I'll take it. :thumbsup:

 

[55Cameo]

Trango,Let us know how it handles on the highway. What kind of power assist are you going with?

 

[55Cameo]

Chevycrew, got any pics of the truck? would love to see the whole truck.

 

[Trango]

Report on steering:

The current steering at 8 degrees caster is extraordinarily stable. At speed, in ruts, going over bumps, the vehicle maintains its course and appears to weave much less than it does with stock steering.

The steering effort has increased, to the point where it's a little hard during low-speed turns (especially those requiring tighter radius). In addition, turning the wheel becomes increasingly more difficult the closer to the steering limit the system is.... meaning, just off center, the steering is still fairly easy, but much past center, it gets progressively harder.

I should have time this week to mount the new power steering. There is an issue, however - I need to locate the pump OFF the block, since my only available v-belt slot is 3" away from the front of the block... and the pump's pulley is approx 5" away from the back of the pump. Shouldn't be an issue though, to relocate the pump just off the block and slightly aft.

 

[gringeltaube]

How is the resulting front drive shaft to pumpkin angle, specially with frame lifted and axle hanging in the springs/shocks? How far from U-joints starting to bind???
Would like to see some pics.

G.

 

[55Cameo]

Thats awesome that you can still steer it without power. I was afraid that you wouldn't be able to. Those 1410 u-joints can take max. of 23 degrees I believe. Not that you would want them to ride with that much on them. I don't think that you will be near that with your setup after looking at mine.

 

[Trango]

Hi Gents,

Had I seen this post before I went back to retorque the ubolts tonight, I could have solid answers for you. So, tomorrow you'll have answers.

Best
Bob