FLU419 repair 4*4 locker switch

[joeblack5]

Evening folks... My FLU419 came with a stuck 4*4 /locker switch... Pulled the knob of and put some oil on top but it was to no avail.

So I removed the switch and tapped the roll pin out.. There was a lot of gunk in the mechanism and I took the whole thing apart.

You can see in the detail picture that the white plastic cylinder has damaged notches. Probably from me or the PO trying to force it. With a sharp knife I remodelled as good as I could. The white piece was also swollen around the circumference so that it did not slide smoother thru the rotating black piece. Used the knife to scrape a little until it was smooth enough.

As a note.....in the layout picture not all the internal parts are seen.. I left inside the body some seal as I did not feel the need in prying them out and potentially damaging them..

The small black washer is actually a rubber seal with an Integrated copper base ring.. It with pretty snug on the shaft.

After clean out I put the thing together and it did not work. Then I noticed that I had put the roll pin in with the split on the sliding surface. After I rotated the roll pin so that the split was up and the sliding surface of the white plastic .. Whatever you call it.. Was riding on the smooth sides of the pin it all worked..

I used a sharp needle nose pliers to get the Seeger ring out. Was a little bit of a pain.


Seems that regular clean out when the knob Is pulled of would help with wear on the notches.

Note,,,, this is not a roll pin but a split pin sorry about the confusion.

Good luck for whoever needs it.

Johan

 

[Speedwoble]

Evening folks... My FLU419 came with a stuck 4*4 /locker switch... Pulled the knob of and put some oil on top but it was to no avail.View attachment 793620View attachment 793621

So I removed the switch and tapped the roll pin out.. There was a lot of gunk in the mechanism and I took the whole thing apart.

You can see in the detail picture that the white plastic cylinder has damaged notches. Probably from me or the PO trying to force it. With a sharp knife I remodelled as good as I could. The white piece was also swollen around the circumference so that it did not slide smoother thru the rotating black piece. Used the knife to scrape a little until it was smooth enough.

As a note.....in the layout picture not all the internal parts are seen.. I left inside the body some seal as I did not feel the need in prying them out and potentially damaging them..

The small black washer is actually a rubber seal with an Integrated copper base ring.. It with pretty snug on the shaft.

After clean out I put the thing together and it did not work. Then I noticed that I had put the roll pin in with the split on the sliding surface. After I rotated the roll pin so that the split was up and the sliding surface of the white plastic .. Whatever you call it.. Was riding on the smooth sides of the pin it all worked..

I used a sharp needle nose pliers to get the Seeger ring out. Was a little bit of a pain.


Seems that regular clean out when the knob Is pulled of would help with wear on the notches.

Note,,,, this is not a roll pin but a split pin sorry about the confusion.

Good luck for whoever needs it.

Johan

Thanks for the great details! Always nice to have a reminder that one can repair instead of replace!

 

[Speedzilla]

Thanks for the info! Mine came witha bad switch as well, the lever turns but it is obvious the mechanism isn't. I fear it might be un-repairable. Will have to open it up. The price of a new one is rather.....unfortunate!

 

[joeblack5]

Thanks, will be interesting what you find.
J

 

[Speedzilla]

Thanks, will be interesting what you find.
J

Well, I got it off the truck. Ironically the switch was indeed turning the valves. It moved very easily, the detents on the nylon piece where the roll pin weren't in great shape on mine, which is why it felt no resistance. A little dremel work made it better, but that nylon piece seems like a design prone to failure. I still pulled the valve apart and cleaned/lubed everything. Won't know the results until tomorrow, but the valve on the bench was working fine as-removed, so I am not sure where my problem lies.

 

[Speedzilla]

Welp....the switch doesn't work nearly as well with air. significant force required to get over to diff locks, have to investigate the switch again. It does work though, no idea why the 4wd doesn't work, seized air cylinder maybe. TM's are worthless, no troubleshooting whatsoever, just how to replace cylinder or regulator, no info on how they work or what they do.

Unfortunately the lockers in the axles are probably seized solid, heavy corrosion in drain plug and air inlet.

 

[joeblack5]

Welp....the switch doesn't work nearly as well with air. significant force required to get over to diff locks, have to investigate the switch again. It does work though, no idea why the 4wd doesn't work, seized air cylinder maybe. TM's are worthless, no troubleshooting whatsoever, just how to replace cylinder or regulator, no info on how they work or what they do.

Unfortunately the lockers in the axles are probably seized solid, heavy corrosion in drain plug and air inlet.

Sorry to hear that, I did not get that far yet.

 

[laproscopic]

I replaced the switch with individual air solenoid switch is. Front locker rear locker and four-wheel-drive are all independent

 

[joeblack5]

That looks great , where did you get your air switches from?

Johan

 

[laproscopic]

Powertank Has the switches. They work great.
Just use cheap push lock air fittings.Easy

 

[The FLU farm]

Nice! That's what I need to get around to do, too.

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

curious to see what you do with the final install - please send pics.